Time Alignment

[headless 10+ year member]

Just remember, it's not the raw distance...it's the DIFFERENCE in distance that you are compensating for. If your sub is 200cm away and your front right speaker is 70cm away - do not delay your front right for 70cm. Delay it for 200-70cm = 130cm of delay, because that's the amount of distance that you need to 'make up' to make them both SEEM like they are 200cm away. This is where most people mess up.

You don't just measure to your front-right speaker, then take that distance and figure you need to delay it that much...if you did that, then you'd be delaying the entire system by too much or too little. You might like how it sounds, but it'd be whacked out.

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

Just remember, it's not the raw distance...it's the DIFFERENCE in distance that you are compensating for. You don't just measure to your front-right speaker, then take that distance and figure you need to delay it that much...if you did that, then you'd be delaying the entire system by too much.

Yes, I did the difference. It sounds way better. I will break out the tape measure and remeasure. I think since the sub is rear firing I need to measure all the way to the back of the trunk. Just roughly calculating based on the wrong numbers I had made a world of difference. Thanks.

 

[headless 10+ year member]

yeah, i measured to the cone of the sub when i did mine. it's kind of a ***** if you don't have line of sight...and who does? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[adam71 5,000+ posts]

I've never owned an Alpine that had TA. But every Pioneer deck I've ever owned you don't set the milliseconds. You just punch in the distance in inches/cm is from the listening position. The processor/deck calculates all the delay times according to this. Didn't realize Alpine decks were so manual about this.

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

I've never owned an Alpine that had TA. But every Pioneer deck I've ever owned you don't set the milliseconds. You just punch in the distance in inches/cm is from the listening position. The processor/deck calculates all the delay times according to this. Didn't realize Alpine decks were so manual about this.

Yep, the Alpine lets you choose between inches, centimeters and milliseconds.

It's setup setting, not in the time correction menu. It's very unfriendly, but highly

tweakable.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

balance & phase correction before T/A.

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

balance & phase correction before T/A.

Word. ^

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[bass_lover1 10+ year member]

Pretty sure with the Pioneer T/A function you don't need to do any calculations, or at least that's how it was on my 880PRS.

You measure the distance from each driver to the listening position and enter that into the HU, and it does the rest for you.

Also, T/A on a sub is retarded, plain and simple. The human ear cannot interpret sound that is less than 1/4 of a wavelength, 1/4 of a wavelength at 30hz is something like 35ft. Swapping the phase 180* on the sub channel is going to have a larger effect than T/A on the sub channel.

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

Pretty sure with the Pioneer T/A function you don't need to do any calculations, or at least that's how it was on my 880PRS.
You measure the distance from each driver to the listening position and enter that into the HU, and it does the rest for you.

Also, T/A on a sub is retarded, plain and simple. The human ear cannot interpret sound that is less than 1/4 of a wavelength, 1/4 of a wavelength at 30hz is something like 35ft. Swapping the phase 180* on the sub channel is going to have a larger effect than T/A on the sub channel.

The sub is set to zero.