Thoughts? 10"

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

I was origionally thinking these, mainly because of the materials used

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-068

But now I'm thinking this may be better for free air...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-045

The drivers will be my main midbass-midrange in my car, mounted to the door in some fashion, no pod, I'll be mating them with the horns ~ 1k until I can get a better processing setup and drop the xover points lower.

basicly I want something I can get a ton of midrange and midbass out of w/o going three way just yet, that will involve running solenoids for the PB and HR, and I just don't have time for that yet.

Click to read more...

 

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

Pertty sure either one would be fine, they should easily produce what you want out of them.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

Sort of splitting hairs from the paper spec...you are going to have door rattles without some serious arse work to quiet them down.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Sort of splitting hairs from the paper spec...you are going to have door rattles without some serious arse work to quiet them down.

planning a roughly $1K budget for sound deadening in the wagon. I was just figuring that I should go with the one with the higher QTS from the get go as I knew I'd be doing them free air. Once I get my parking brake and hood release taken care of I'll be replacing them with a beefier 10 and 5.25 mid in a kick panel.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

hmm, 10's in the doors as a midrange is going to beam like no other. 1000 in deadening might cut down on rattles, but I doubt you'll ever get rid of them, that's ALOT of cone area. I'd prefer a long throw 8, as they are easier to fit in the door, and to find. Honestly, I'm not even 100% sure your doors even going to be considered IB for a woofer that size, most doors are only 2-3 cubes, if you seal them properly. The vas on those things is over 6 cubes, you'd need at least that much aispace to even get a pseudo Ib setup. 18 cubes to hit the less liberal defintion (60 to hit home standards) The 8, for isntance, only need a bit over 2 cubes for pseudo IB. If your not even sure how your going to make them fit, I think you may find this project to not be worth the effort.

5.25 midrange is going to be too small too! It simply won't have the cone area to keep up with horns, 10 inch midbasses and a large sub in the back (or is this subless?). I'd try to get AT LEAST 6.5 in the kicks for midrange, or a pair of 5.25's.

 

[Speedyd718 10+ year member]

jason wft are you smoking on, LOL. 10's in the doors, u r nuts. just stick with 7's and 8's.

 

[AAAAAAA 10+ year member]

I had 10's, I will comment later, I am leaving work.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

hmm, 10's in the doors as a midrange is going to beam like no other. 1000 in deadening might cut down on rattles, but I doubt you'll ever get rid of them, that's ALOT of cone area. I'd prefer a long throw 8, as they are easier to fit in the door, and to find. Honestly, I'm not even 100% sure your doors even going to be considered IB for a woofer that size, most doors are only 2-3 cubes, if you seal them properly. The vas on those things is over 6 cubes, you'd need at least that much aispace to even get a pseudo Ib setup. 18 cubes to hit the less liberal defintion (60 to hit home standards) The 8, for isntance, only need a bit over 2 cubes for pseudo IB. If your not even sure how your going to make them fit, I think you may find this project to not be worth the effort.
5.25 midrange is going to be too small too! It simply won't have the cone area to keep up with horns, 10 inch midbasses and a large sub in the back (or is this subless?). I'd try to get AT LEAST 6.5 in the kicks for midrange, or a pair of 5.25's.

5.25 was just a ball park throw out number, once I've gotten rid of the parking brake and hood release I'll have quite a bit of room left for kick panels, I'm sure 6.5's will fit easily.

I have absolutely no expectations of getting rid of all the rattles in my car, I'll be running 2 18's in the cargo area, in a large low tuned ported box for a while, then when I actually get another car I'll have them sealed with about 4 cubes each. I'm honestly just trying to come up with a front stage that will keep up with the final sealed install, I've always been about overkill, hence the jump from 6.5's, over 8's, to the 10's.

I'm not trying to win any SQ competitions as I'm sure you probably guessed, but I do want a solid system that sounds pretty **** good.

jason wft are you smoking on, LOL. 10's in the doors, u r nuts. just stick with 7's and 8's.

I thought we established that a long time ago, lol.

I had 10's, I will comment later, I am leaving work.

Looking foreward to it. I'm assuming that since that's in past tense, you didn't like it.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Honestly, I'm not even 100% sure your doors even going to be considered IB for a woofer that size, most doors are only 2-3 cubes, if you seal them properly. The vas on those things is over 6 cubes, you'd need at least that much aispace to even get a pseudo Ib setup.

I would agree.

If you run the #'s, the H10.1 has a MUCH more reasonable Qtc (Qtc = .63 @ 3cuft, Qtc = .707 @ 2.19cuft) as compared to the MW-1075 which has a Qtc over 1 in both instances.

The 10" Dayton Ref looks interesting aswell. Paper specs are nearly identical to the H10.1 but it has about 50% more excursion and is half the price. FR graph shows good response to 1khz at 30* off-axis....no line for 60*, but I can't imagine it's much worse 1khz and below.

The JL 10IB4 would be perfect for you....but are hard to get a hold of.

There are a few others, but I'm having a brain fart right now....

 

[AAAAAAA 10+ year member]

I had the Canton QS3.28 wich uses 10inch midbases, 5 1\4inch midrange and 1 inch tweeters. I did not end up putting in a sub since it worked so well for normal music listening. After my door was dampened there warent any problems with rattles really. Although I didnt play it as loud as you most likely will.

I have to say that I really liked it. this time around I cant put them in since the spouse doesnt want me to cut anything in our new vehicule. I had free rain on my previous pathfinder that was owned only by me. Now is a different storie.

If you are interested, you could get my 3 way component set for about the price of your 2 midbases. I had a us amps tu-600 on the midbase so they handled 150watts without trouble. The midranges come with their own enclosures. this set really does sound great and you get the output because of their size.

Good luck.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

5.25 was just a ball park throw out number, once I've gotten rid of the parking brake and hood release I'll have quite a bit of room left for kick panels, I'm sure 6.5's will fit easily.
I have absolutely no expectations of getting rid of all the rattles in my car, I'll be running 2 18's in the cargo area, in a large low tuned ported box for a while, then when I actually get another car I'll have them sealed with about 4 cubes each. I'm honestly just trying to come up with a front stage that will keep up with the final sealed install, I've always been about overkill, hence the jump from 6.5's, over 8's, to the 10's.

I'm not trying to win any SQ competitions as I'm sure you probably guessed, but I do want a solid system that sounds pretty **** good.

I thought we established that a long time ago, lol.

Looking foreward to it. I'm assuming that since that's in past tense, you didn't like it.

If your looking for a good ten, squeek mentioned the JL10IB4. It was my first though too, I just got off track. They've been run in a way with horns and done quite well in SQ competitions. As a 2 way in the kicks, that might be a good idea, if you can find some. Look for the JL stealthboxes in BMW's. JBL also makes some nice

10's as well.

With that said, for a 3 way, I'd personally stick with 8's. If your not even 100% sure how your going to fit them in your doors, you'll find an 8 will be MUCH easier to cram in there. The IB requirement is much more forgiving and honestly, for midbass frequencies you don't need the extra cone area. The biggest advantage of the larger drivers is their ability to play lower, since your not trying to run them down to 35hz or anything, I'd say alot of their potential is going to waste. 8's will get more than loud enough to deafen you, enough to keep up with 2 18's going full tilt, well, no, but I dont' think a pair of 10's will do that either! Other than that, just makes sure you get at least a 6.5 in your kickpanel for midranges, look for high effeciencys. ( 6.5 isprobably your best bet, 8 inch midranges are a bit rare)

The Daytons squeek pointed out do look nice on paper. Honestly, I have a feeling that despite the graph that shows them cleanly playing to 1k or so, I don't think they'd sound that good that high. Lots of drivers tend to look good on paper much higher than they actually will play.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Sweet thanks for all the replies guys... I'll keep it all in mind.