The Rattler!

I was only stateing that the sub handled more power not that I actually thought it was great becuase its peak was 1400 your comments really are annoying to read.I could care less what you have to say but the fact that you have to act all superior to people who you disagree with really pisses me off and I think thats what a lot of you do before you even know what the hell your talkin about. You make me not wanna post on forums like this but I guess there will always be assholes like you everywhere you go.
Yeah, so deal with it. Im not really an *******, but there always some fact and truth to my comments. Many newbies probably do look at the peak ratings of amps and subs as what they actually put-out, I was just correcting the ignorance. If your feelings are hurt because of my posts then dont post here, but I have every right to say what I want to just as you do.

 
Sealed is the way to go for SQ, especially when checking for accuracy and registration.

It is fundamentally impossible for bandpass enclosures to be accurate, because they only play a narrow band of of the audible frequency range.

 
It is fundamentally impossible for bandpass enclosures to be accurate, because they only play a narrow band of of the audible frequency range.
Saying that a bandpass is inaccurate because it plays a limited frequency range then that is like saying that a tweeter is inaccurate because it doesn't play bass. There are a lot more tradeoffs invloved in making a bandpass enclosure correctly (enclosure size, transient response, passband width, efficiency) then when making a ported or sealed enclosure but they are not impossible to make sound good. The rest of the system must be matched to the characteristics of the bandpass for it to work. If matched up with a good midbass driver then a bandpass enclosure (assuming it is properly designed and well built) can sound good. No, it will not be as accurate as an optimal sealed enclosure or ported enclosure, but it CAN sound good in the proper setup.

 
Saying that a bandpass is inaccurate because it plays a limited frequency range then that is like saying that a tweeter is inaccurate because it doesn't play bass.
Finally, someone is coming into this forum that is "logical". Let me add, each enclosure, when used properly, is it's own different entity in itself. One cannot keep saying this is better than that, or sounds better than that. All speakers, enclosures, amps, capacitors, etc. are relative. This means any combination of a total set up holds its own for what it is designed to produce, and accompany (as in an enclosure that is added to an existing system of bass and treble speakers) and may be running in it's own class. It's time for this forum to realize, or I am beginning to think that most of the posters on here are juvenile.
A bandpass enclosures best performance is when it be added to a current full car system, as in bass and treble existing speakers. The bandpass box is exclusively constructed and set up (crossed over) to produce the narrow subsonic sound. That's what it is for, so get over it. A bandpass box is not made to be your only bass box unless you plan on missing out on frequencies. My bandpass box only plays the super low 808 bass, and kick drum. Therefore, when you listen to it, it is truly amazing. It kicks, thumps, and hums just when it is supposed to. Sometimes they sit there and do nothing, until its time. It's not the only sub I have. I have a small sealed sub to ensure low full spectrum bass. It is a whole different ball park kids.

It actually emulates a live concert, when a show is running a 3 or 4 way system, the subs kick out the super lows only, as in EV and EAW pro auditorium subs. So the sound you hear in the small place of your car, is as if you are in one of these shows with a mega P.A. rig. The bandpass box reproduces the rumble only. You don't have to have a bandpass system to get a good sound. Sealed, ported, or whatever and kick too.

It's just if you want your car audio to sound most like a live concert hall (pro Rap or Go-Go style), you could think about going with this, but you must understand, you really need some good 8 inch sealed subs or a nice factory installed system to cover the rest of the bass. The bandpass box is an exclusive subsonic enclosure. I have a separate volume control leading to power amp. One does not want to drive around all the time with the bass boom booming, you crank it up when you want to show off your Hip-Hop CD's. When you back it down, you should still have another decent sub, 8" or whatever, to keep the more fuller spectrum bass going.

Saying a bandpass is not accurate is a bunch of crap. It does exactly and precise what it is tuned and built to do. Helotaxi is right on point. God bless him. Let it be said, let it be written.

 
I have to agree with spending time to locate rattles because you could end up dynamatting the entire car and in the end it was a loose screw. I know because it happened to me and when I found the problem I was a tad miffed.

 
I think everyone in this thread (including my self) were quick to jump on the bandpass box. I think this was because we didn't know about the mid bass being used for the rest of the freq. until a later post. Now that I know that, everything seems a little more clear. Not many people have mid bass and depend on the sub to do all the work, in this case a bandpass box would not be the way to go. In your case it makes more sense. Still not my personal choice but it does make a lot more sense.

 
Finally, someone is coming into this forum that is "logical". Let me add, each enclosure, when used properly, is it's own different entity in itself. One cannot keep saying this is better than that, or sounds better than that. All speakers, enclosures, amps, capacitors, etc. are relative. This means any combination of a total set up holds its own for what it is designed to produce, and accompany (as in an enclosure that is added to an existing system of bass and treble speakers) and may be running in it's own class. It's time for this forum to realize, or I am beginning to think that most of the posters on here are juvenile.
It can be objectively proven that a sealed enclosure is more accurate than a ported or bandpass, however.

A bandpass enclosures best performance is when it be added to a current full car system, as in bass and treble existing speakers. The bandpass box is exclusively constructed and set up (crossed over) to produce the narrow subsonic sound. That's what it is for, so get over it. A bandpass box is not made to be your only bass box unless you plan on missing out on frequencies. My bandpass box only plays the super low 808 bass, and kick drum. Therefore, when you listen to it, it is truly amazing. It kicks, thumps, and hums just when it is supposed to. Sometimes they sit there and do nothing, until its time. It's not the only sub I have. I have a small sealed sub to ensure low full spectrum bass. It is a whole different ball park kids.
If you are going to run a bandpass "sub" then it should be the only sub in your system. If you are going to use a bandpass sub system then you must design the system around its limitations. The midbasses must be good and the transition from the sub to the mids is more demanding with a bandpass system. Just adding another sub playing the same frequencies as the bandpass is not the best answer though, as having different alignments (sealed, ported, bandpass) playing the same frequencies creates a muddled sound because of the different group delays.

It actually emulates a live concert, when a show is running a 3 or 4 way system, the subs kick out the super lows only, as in EV and EAW pro auditorium subs. So the sound you hear in the small place of your car, is as if you are in one of these shows with a mega P.A. rig. The bandpass box reproduces the rumble only. You don't have to have a bandpass system to get a good sound. Sealed, ported, or whatever and kick too.
Most car systems are at least 3 way and some are 4 way. We are very familiar with the proper use of a sub. Many of us cross our subs at 60ish hz and some even lower.

It's just if you want your car audio to sound most like a live concert hall (pro Rap or Go-Go style), you could think about going with this, but you must understand, you really need some good 8 inch sealed subs or a nice factory installed system to cover the rest of the bass. The bandpass box is an exclusive subsonic enclosure. I have a separate volume control leading to power amp. One does not want to drive around all the time with the bass boom booming, you crank it up when you want to show off your Hip-Hop CD's. When you back it down, you should still have another decent sub, 8" or whatever, to keep the more fuller spectrum bass going.
Actually if the system design is sound, an additional sub is not needed or wanted. A decent set of midbasses will be able to provide a good transition between the sub and the soundstage speakers. This will be the case at any volume. With a highpowered sub system some form of volume control for the sub is usually needed if you switch types of music regularly.

Saying a bandpass is not accurate is a bunch of crap. It does exactly and precise what it is tuned and built to do. Helotaxi is right on point. God bless him. Let it be said, let it be written.
Saying that most bandpass systems are not accurate is true though. The design of a bandpass system is involved and not cut and dry. The enclosure must be designed for the sub and the construction must be spot on. Any type of one size fits all bandpass is going to sound bad at best and destroy the sub at worst. Bandpasses CAN be made that are very accurate but the tradeoffs usually involve a tiny passband, horrible efficiency, or a HUGE enclosure. These tradeoffs tend to be more extreme than those involved with sealed and ported enclosures. The simple fact is that most people have never heard a proper bandpass enclosure that was designed and built with accuracy as the goal. It can be done, but few people have the time, patience, know-how, and skill to do it.

 
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