Blazin_Jason
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
There have been a few questions on how I powder coated my amps. So here is a quick write up on the way I do it. Take the general idea and apply it to your particular amp. I would suggest that when taking the amp apart that you label all your screws. The first time I did it I used a piece of paper, and used packing tape over the screws. Labeled what went where. I also where an antistatic ground strap. It’s an elastic strap that plugs into an outlet and grounds your body to prevent static shock. It is possible that you can damage components by static shock.
First here is a picture of what we are starting with. It’s an orion 2500d with the standard anodized finish that is pretty scratched up.
Here we have the bottom cover removed.
Then I removed the end pieces that are not going to be coated. You could if you wanted to, but I want to be able to see the setting details.
There are some metal pieces that add tension to the fet’s to ensure that they are nice and tight to the heat sink. I just marked each set to make it easier to put back. It’s not crucial, but you don’t have to guess later.
Here is a picture of all the metal pieces removed and the fet’s now exposed. I had to gently pry up the fet’s with a small flat blade to loosen them off the heat sink.
Then I removed any other screws that hold the board in. Make sure everything is free to move and ready. Carefully remove the board, in this case sliding it out. Make sure not to bend any pieces or break anything.
Clean up anything else on the heat sink that needs to be removed. Here there are some pieces that need to be removed. Note the location where to put it afterwards.
Here is the heat sink completely stripped down with all components removed and ready to go to the powder coaters. At this point you will be done what you can do, unless you are coating it yourself.
First here is a picture of what we are starting with. It’s an orion 2500d with the standard anodized finish that is pretty scratched up.
Here we have the bottom cover removed.
Then I removed the end pieces that are not going to be coated. You could if you wanted to, but I want to be able to see the setting details.
There are some metal pieces that add tension to the fet’s to ensure that they are nice and tight to the heat sink. I just marked each set to make it easier to put back. It’s not crucial, but you don’t have to guess later.
Here is a picture of all the metal pieces removed and the fet’s now exposed. I had to gently pry up the fet’s with a small flat blade to loosen them off the heat sink.
Then I removed any other screws that hold the board in. Make sure everything is free to move and ready. Carefully remove the board, in this case sliding it out. Make sure not to bend any pieces or break anything.
Clean up anything else on the heat sink that needs to be removed. Here there are some pieces that need to be removed. Note the location where to put it afterwards.
Here is the heat sink completely stripped down with all components removed and ready to go to the powder coaters. At this point you will be done what you can do, unless you are coating it yourself.
