test cca with dmm?

Flipx99
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I think I may have gotten tricked at autozone. I bought a 34/78 optima battery. The optima website says 750 CCA, the autozone website says 750 CCA, but the products says 650 CCA. The CA is correct with all other posted values. Can I test CCA with a DMM or should I just return it? I wanted roughly 700 CCA and this was a good fit at a good price. Any ideas?

 
You can't test the current draw with a DMM (at those levels)...you need a very high current clamp meter for that, and something that will test that kind of current will run you a lot of money.

I wouldn't worry about the cranking amperage anyway, at least not too much.

 
sorry for the ignorance, but what should I got by to help with the voltage drop. I don't think the amp is getting fed properly with a 95A alt and a 550 CCA battery. What should I have looked for in the upgrade?

I know I need to upgrade alt as well, but I am afraid of such a "fixed" investment. All the other items I can take with me from car to car, but dampening and alt. I cannot, which is why I haven't purchased.

 
you should upgrade the alt before the battery IMO.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif If you buy an HO alt, you can always keep the stock alt and put it back in when you decide to sell the car. Then you could sell the HO alt, or pissibly mod it to fit your new vehicle. You will be amazed at what things do when they are properly powered.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/iagree.gif.15d6c075ee8d3913ba26866d06993068.gif If you buy an HO alt, you can always keep the stock alt and put it back in when you decide to sell the car. Then you could sell the HO alt, or pissibly mod it to fit your new vehicle. You will be amazed at what things do when they are properly powered.
I wouldn't know how to mod it to a new vehicle...but see then I would have to sell it at a cost lower than its depreciated value. Perhaps I am just thinking about it too hard.

 
Not selling, I have fear in the thought of sunk costs in case I am in an accident and the car is totalled. For instance, I cannot get any value for my plans for second skin just incase someone hits me during my test drive after putting it on. Whereas a new battery, I can just move from car to car. Same with the audio system.

 
Not selling, I have fear in the thought of sunk costs in case I am in an accident and the car is totalled. For instance, I cannot get any value for my plans for second skin just incase someone hits me during my test drive after putting it on. Whereas a new battery, I can just move from car to car. Same with the audio system.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif I think you need professional help....

 
Loses market value, but not value to the person who purchased it before depreciation, and different people calculate it at different rates. I use things until I get my purchased value from them, or when I have a greater opportunity elsewhere. (ie upgrading the amps) I took a lot of thought before purchase and plan to keep them aprox 3 years.

Also...bonds and investments do not lose value immediately. (although that is not your point)

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif I think you need professional help....

I do...it's called college and risk management. I think of ways to avoid risk...or pay others to assume it (ie insurance)

to Jack Frost---do you believe insurance would cover items such as sound deadening? I shall call them to find out.

 
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Flipx99

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