Terminal cups (again)

BeanII
10+ year member

Senior VIP Member
I just looked at this post.

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=102898

and also this one.......

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=100240&page=2&pp=15

And it remined me of this one.........

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94312

This last one, I really got flamed for....... Anyway, stop using terminal cups. they're gay. Like a slap bracelet, or maybe more like boat shoes with a suit.

let the flaming begin. I know it's coming.

 
im just gonna disagree with ya //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif thats your opinion //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I use binding posts or just good ole regular bolts as my binding posts. Easy to install, just takes a few small drilled holes filled in with silly-cone. Like this:

091-1245m.jpg


http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1245

 
Since I'm bored, I'll play along.

Why not? Unless you're building an SPL box where every square centimeter of flex could cost you some tiny fraction of a dB, does it really matter?

Besides, if you have parallel or series drivers, having a quad terminal cup is the best way to switch between wiring configs and change the impedance. My bipole cabinets are like that - I could switch between 4 and 16 ohms depending on what amp I'm using to drive them.

 
Since I'm bored, I'll play along.
Why not? Unless you're building an SPL box where every square centimeter of flex could cost you some tiny fraction of a dB, does it really matter?

Besides, if you have parallel or series drivers, having a quad terminal cup is the best way to switch between wiring configs and change the impedance. My bipole cabinets are like that - I could switch between 4 and 16 ohms depending on what amp I'm using to drive them.

why not just wire them in the box? Now as for your bipoles, home speakers right? If so then I'm not going to comment, different arena........

But for a car sub enclosure, you're going to have 2 up to maybe 6 voice coils. IMO, you should do all the wiring inside the box and have one clean looking cable coming out of it to the amp.

again, my opinion. Thanks for not intantly flaming.

 
If so then I'm not going to comment, different arena........
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

How does the simple task of running two-conductor wire to a speaker enclosure change that much from a vehicle to the home? Does the terminal cup care where it is?

why not just wire them in the box?
Sure, why not?

It's personal preference, and attempting to call either way "ghey" simply shows ignorance.

[/story]

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
How does the simple task of running two-conductor wire to a speaker enclosure change that much from a vehicle to the home? Does the terminal cup care where it is?

Sure, why not?

It's personal preference, and attempting to call either way "ghey" simply shows ignorance.

[/story]

Only because many home speaker manufacturers build the crossover network into the terminal cup.. No big deal. And if it weren't for terminal cups in home speakers how would MOnster and Kimber sell 10 foot speaker lengths for $500?

kidding.

Ignorance? No, and I'm a bit insulted that you would say that sir. I've been doing this a real long time. It's just important to me for the finished product to look good in a car. You know without a bunch of wires hangin out all over the place. It just plain looks better.

again.....my opinion. Oh, and why not save 3 or 4 bucks on the terminal cup? That's a late' at the ol' starbucks.

 
Hey I agree with that statement 100%

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
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BeanII

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