System Upgrade/Overhaul - Recommended package for < $1500 (Toyota GX 100)

[kenyana]

I have had an initiation of sorts on the whole car system realm and I want to move on to the next level. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I have gone through a few threads and most picked user signatures listing their devices and compared with what is online (reviews and prices).

My list is down to:

Sub Woofer

• Sundown Audio Z v3 15" Sub woofer 1500W RMS Subwoofer
  
• SoundQubed HDC3 12" D2 Copper 1500W RMS
  
• XCON 15 Sound Solutions Audio 15" 1750W XCON Series Subwoofer
  
• JL W7AE ('Mainstream' models are not widely regarded as the best from what I gather)
  

Sub Amp/Mono Block Amp

• Crescendo Audio BC3500D
  
• DC Audio 3.5k - This is way above my budget //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
  

Head Unit

• Pioneer DEH-80PRS - This looks like a clear winner
  

Mid/High Amp

• Precision Power P900.5 900-Watt Phantom Series Class D Full Range 5-Channel Amplifier
  

Front

• Massive Audio 6" x 9" 2-Way CKX Series Convertible Component / Coaxial Car Speakers System
  

Side/Doors - What do we call these?

DB DRIVE 6.5"

Back - By this I mean behind the backseat, right below the shield

• Alpine Spr-69 6 x 9 Inches 2 Way Pair of Car Speakers Totalling 600 Watts Peak / 200 Watts RMS
  

A friend also suggested Infinity 6030cs 6-1/2" 2-Way Component Speaker System and the Kappa 52.11i 5-1/4" Two-Way Loudspeaker.

My main question is this, I am on the right track in as far as the right components for the right job and what other models would you recommend that probably work better/equal at fair prices. I wouldn't mind saving a few hundreds for a new paint job.

My car is a JZX 100 Toyota Mark 2, similar to the one shown below

I am not an expert on sound so basically I would like to ship the stuff and have an expert fix them locally. Any advise on wiring and best material to purchase would be highly appreciated.

Cheers

Click to read more...

 

[big scott]

looks good, but look into something better for the back. maybe a nice set of comps. you will need to make a baffle to mount them.

im using the hdc3 15" sub and really like them.

 

[lew-e 10+ year member]

A lot of people would tell you to ditch the rear deck speakers altogether. The front and rear doors are all you really need. Mainly the front. Those rear deck 6x9 will mostly get in the way. Save money there

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[fly_marlin]

I have had an initiation of sorts on the whole car system realm and I want to move on to the next level. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
I have gone through a few threads and most picked user signatures listing their devices and compared with what is online (reviews and prices).

My list is down to:

Sub Woofer

• Sundown Audio Z v3 15" Sub woofer 1500W RMS Subwoofer
  
• SoundQubed HDC3 12" D2 Copper 1500W RMS
  
• XCON 15 Sound Solutions Audio 15" 1750W XCON Series Subwoofer
  
• JL W7AE ('Mainstream' models are not widely regarded as the best from what I gather)
  

Sub Amp/Mono Block Amp

• Crescendo Audio BC3500D
  
• DC Audio 3.5k - This is way above my budget //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
  

Head Unit

• Pioneer DEH-80PRS - This looks like a clear winner
  

Mid/High Amp

• Precision Power P900.5 900-Watt Phantom Series Class D Full Range 5-Channel Amplifier
  

Front

• Massive Audio 6" x 9" 2-Way CKX Series Convertible Component / Coaxial Car Speakers System
  

Side/Doors - What do we call these?

DB DRIVE 6.5"

Back - By this I mean behind the backseat, right below the shield

• Alpine Spr-69 6 x 9 Inches 2 Way Pair of Car Speakers Totalling 600 Watts Peak / 200 Watts RMS
  

A friend also suggested Infinity 6030cs 6-1/2" 2-Way Component Speaker System and the Kappa 52.11i 5-1/4" Two-Way Loudspeaker.

My main question is this, I am on the right track in as far as the right components for the right job and what other models would you recommend that probably work better/equal at fair prices. I wouldn't mind saving a few hundreds for a new paint job.

My car is a JZX 100 Toyota Mark 2, similar to the one shown below

I am not an expert on sound so basically I would like to ship the stuff and have an expert fix them locally. Any advise on wiring and best material to purchase would be highly appreciated.

Cheers

Where are you putting the convertible 6x9s in the front? I'd do 6.5" components with adapters and 6'5" coaxials with adapters in the back, if possible - consult your installer as to what they can fit. Avoid huge speakers in the rear as you want the sound stage to be in front of you. Also, if you're using a separate amp for subs, you don't need a 5ch amp, just a 4ch.

 

[kenyana]

Where are you putting the convertible 6x9s in the front? I'd do 6.5" components with adapters and 6'5" coaxials with adapters in the back, if possible - consult your installer as to what they can fit. Avoid huge speakers in the rear as you want the sound stage to be in front of you. Also, if you're using a separate amp for subs, you don't need a 5ch amp, just a 4ch.

Thanks for this. Which models would you recommend? I want crisp quality over 'loudness'. It has to be banging though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[fly_marlin]

Before any recommendations, few questions/comments:

1. Do you have the electrical to support a 3.5kW amp?

2. Your sub choices vary. Soundqubed is great value, will be just about as loud as anything else at a fraction of the cost. X-con has great reviews, overall great sub. Save with the sundown. W7 is expensive and should sound good, I'm

sure about its output, though most things on 1500w in a good box should exhibit decent output.

3. Good power goes hand in hand with quality, so you get that by default.

4. Are you counting the installation into the $1500 budget or is that extra?

5. Front components will be the most important part of the system - I don't recommend going cheap here.

6. Are you planning on deadening the doors?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Goals for your system ? Also I haven't seen anything about a box wiring installation , nothing. Need more info also the w7 won't take any of those amps power too much. And yes you will need some electrical upgrades for 4000 watts rms

 

[kenyana]

Before any recommendations, few questions/comments:
1. Do you have the electrical to support a 3.5kW amp?

2. Your sub choices vary. Soundqubed is great value, will be just about as loud as anything else at a fraction of the cost. X-con has great reviews, overall great sub. Save with the sundown. W7 is expensive and should sound good, I'm

sure about its output, though most things on 1500w in a good box should exhibit decent output.

3. Good power goes hand in hand with quality, so you get that by default.

4. Are you counting the installation into the $1500 budget or is that extra?

5. Front components will be the most important part of the system - I don't recommend going cheap here.

6. Are you planning on deadening the doors?

For the electrical support I believe that means an alternator upgrade.

By installation do you mean the fee or extra components to make all this work seamlessly? The $ 1500 is inclusive of all that. That is my ceiling.

Which front components would you advise or I am on the right path?

Deadening doors.. now that's the tricky part. How do we go about this and what is the most effective method?

 

[kenyana]

Goals for your system ? Also I haven't seen anything about a box wiring installation , nothing. Need more info also the w7 won't take any of those amps power too much. And yes you will need some electrical upgrades for 4000 watts rms

What kind of electrical updates? I will not do the wiring myself since this is not my domain. I however know of someone who does it professionally so all I want is to get the best/cost effective parts and then he completes the equation.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

What kind of electrical updates? I will not do the wiring myself since this is not my domain. I however know of someone who does it professionally so all I want is to get the best/cost effective parts and then he completes the equation.

4000 rms will need at least 2 extra batteries and a ho alt

 

[fly_marlin]

For the electrical support I believe that means an alternator upgrade.By installation do you mean the fee or extra components to make all this work seamlessly? The $ 1500 is inclusive of all that. That is my ceiling.

Which front components would you advise or I am on the right path?

Deadening doors.. now that's the tricky part. How do we go about this and what is the most effective method?

Brief search leads me to believe your car has an 80A stock alternator. You should really be looking at a 600w amp, 1000w tops.

By installation I mean - who's putting all the equipment into the car for you?

As for deadening, you use deadener. Dynamat is the most well known one, look it up. There are other, cheaper, alternatives. This prevents unwanted vibration and improves overall sound of the system when applied properly. Most common applications are trunk and doors, though people have done this with their entire cars - roof, floor, etc.

 

[kenyana]

4000 rms will need at least 2 extra batteries and a ho alt

2 extra batts? D@mn! So that would mean I run 3 bats? That's borderline crazy! Any way I can get round this? Downgrade on the amp?

 

[kenyana]

Brief search leads me to believe your car has an 80A stock alternator. You should really be looking at a 600w amp, 1000w tops.
By installation I mean - who's putting all the equipment into the car for you?

As for deadening, you use deadener. Dynamat is the most well known one, look it up. There are other, cheaper, alternatives. This prevents unwanted vibration and improves overall sound of the system when applied properly. Most common applications are trunk and doors, though people have done this with their entire cars - roof, floor, etc.

I will look at options of getting an extra alternator or something that can pack enough power for this. I believe that's an option, No?

We have places where I can get the system fixed, I won't be doing it myself. As for deadening... how much do I need for a car of this size?

 

[big scott]

yes smaller amps.

you go by total rms of all amps.

look at my sig, to give you an idea what it take to run what i have.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

2 extra batts? D@mn! So that would mean I run 3 bats? That's borderline crazy! Any way I can get round this? Downgrade on the amp?

Gotta have power to make power. If you're looking at running a single sub, the zv3 is the only one in that list that will like that much power. I suggest stepping down to something like a 2500w amp. With that you could probably get away with just one large battery in the back, like an XS XP3000. I had an xcon for a while running off an AQ2200 @ 1 ohm, and I wouldn't give it much more than that. It didn't smell when I would play it for a while, but it was close.