Switch recommendations for adding LEDs

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

Ok, so here's the deal. I am going to be adding 10 LEDs to my interior:

6 x Air Vents

2 x Door Handles

2 x Map pockets

...and I would like to tap directly off of my car battery since I can get a nice, clean supply to the LEDs. However, I would like to hook the whole network up to a switch.

Can anyone recommend what switch to use? I would like to use something that I can run 12GA to and from the switch, but all I have seen are crappy 22GA wires on most of the switches I have seen. Thanks!

-D.

Click to read more...

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

leds don't take much juice.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

um.

go to radio shack. ask for a 12~14VDC toggle switch. but a soldering gun, some solder, and some shrinkwrap.

nuff said.

//edit

each LED will take ~2miliamps on average. so 10 LEDs = 20miliamps. not much current at all. 14awg should be fine.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

R U buying pre-packed LED's like hyperLEDS or something, they come ready to accept 12v and a switch. If you're gonna do it all DIY, buy all the stuff REQ said and find a resistance calulator online, figure out how you're gonna wire 'em up, and buy resistors or you'll fry 'em on first power up. The new under $20 ColdHeat soldering guns are easier to use when working with small, heat sensitive things like LEDs. They are also 6v and can be used to test LED's for short periods.

 

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

I am doing everything myself and usually test the LEDs with a 9V battery before I install them. The cold heat gun sucks, I'll take my 40W iron any day of the week over it...plus, you can get a real nice solder job with some rosin. I think I am going to be buying a custom switch, just for the hell of it, and attach using 14 GA as req suggested.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

i used LED toggles similar to those before. Some didn't have built-in resistors and will COOK with 12v(or 14.4v) running straigt to them. The one I remember wanted 3v to the LED circuit.(b@stards) good luck. post pics when ya get done!

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

http://www.lsdiodes.com

has a link to resistance calculators, and sells GREAT ultrabright led's yada yada yada.

if i were you, id run 4 to each door (wire them together to use 12~14v) just put them wherever. just for convienece and not using a resistor.

and run 8 to the vents - again, wire them all together, so you have 4 sets of 4 LED's, all without resistors, running to a common posative and ground. the switch should be on the ground.

run a pair of wires to each door, and the vents form the common switch\posative. then from there, hook your array of 4 LED's to each set of +\-'s

its quite simple //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[THUNDERBIRD 10+ year member]

i had the coldheat solderin iron and wasnt that impressed with it either, so i bought a mini butane soldering iron from radio shack and love it.

 

[lotas 10+ year member]

an LED uses less current than your clock in your car....

 

[jrz126 10+ year member]

um.each LED will take ~2miliamps on average. so 10 LEDs = 20miliamps. not much current at all. 14awg should be fine.

2mA is alittle weak, most leds are designed to handle a constant 20mA and peaks up to 50mA.

Be sure to get a resistor on those too or they will fry.

You can shoot me an IM (jeffzimmerman484) if you have any other questions.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

CRAZY vids. The LED array from a kit mod?

 

[jrz126 10+ year member]

Nope, custom designed by myself...I have some pictures at my car domain on page 2

http://www.cardomain.com/id/jrz126

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

wow. You might be able to achive the moving head look with some 1watt luxeons and stepper motors!!!

here's a board abou the dodecasub the eD guys are working on...

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=43