Sundown Audio SA12 bottoming out

[Boomin_tahoe]

It doesnt sound like its actually mechanically bottoming out since op is not even playing low. Sounds like a weak dirty signal causing an overload of distortion. Had an issue like that with a guy swapping out a kenwood single din for a power acoustik double din and he lost soo much output and his sub sounded wierd when pushed.

Guess he didn't know what to call this misleading thread. I would get a better HU.

I don't get why people wanna replace everything else in the car/SUV/truck and leave the HU stock.

 

[Sizzlechest]

It sounds to me like the sub is mechanically tapping but what do I know..The sub is getting 1000watts so it seemed like a possibility. I will try playing from a different source and see what happens, I'm really hoping this is the case.

Guess he didn't know what to call this misleading thread. I would get a better HU.
I don't get why people wanna replace everything else in the car/SUV/truck and leave the HU stock.

Sorry if the thread title doesn't jive with your opinion dude, I titled it with what I thought was happening. I don't know what you mean by your second comment, my head unit is replaced

 

[Boomin_tahoe]

Replaced with what?

 

[Sizzlechest]

Replaced with what?

An Android double din from China, as I said above.

 

[Boomin_tahoe]

Non brand name?

 

[Sizzlechest]

They are manufactured by what I believe is the same manufacturer while they are released under multiple brand names. There is a mile long thread on XDA about them. Thread

My brand is Klyde, while it was purchased at Eonon.com under what they advertised as their own brand head unit. 'Klyde' or 'Eonon' isn't branded anywhere on the unit, I found which brand is was by the firmware. There's a ton of details in the XDA thread.

Here are more details about my setup:

Klyde Android HU running android 4.4 and using Viper4Android audio drivers

Sub amp - Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000D - 1000x1 @ 1ohm

Sub - Sundown Audio SA 12 in sealed box - sized according to specs (~1 cu ft?)

RCA - Stinger 4000 series

Speaker wire - 12 gauge OFC skyhigh audio IIRC

Power and RCA's are ran separately (RCA thru center console, power thru door sill)

 

[Jeffdachef]

They are manufactured by what I believe is the same manufacturer while they are released under multiple brand names. There is a mile long thread on XDA about them. Thread
My brand is Klyde, while it was purchased at Eonon.com under what they advertised as their own brand head unit. 'Klyde' or 'Eonon' isn't branded anywhere on the unit, I found which brand is was by the firmware. There's a ton of details in the XDA thread.

Here are more details about my setup:

Klyde Android HU running android 4.4 and using Viper4Android audio drivers

Sub amp - Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.1000D - 1000x1 @ 1ohm

Sub - Sundown Audio SA 12 in sealed box - sized according to specs (~1 cu ft?)

RCA - Stinger 4000 series

Speaker wire - 12 gauge OFC skyhigh audio IIRC

Power and RCA's are ran separately (RCA thru center console, power thru door sill)

that head unit is what classifies as a toy head unit. Not a real Car audio head unit. Basically gives you features and bland weak sound with sh*T pre out voltages and cheap DACs. Going from an actual head unit to this wannabe smart tablet is obviously gonna have major negative effects on the sound system.

Seems your preout voltage strength is less than a volt. While 4 volt pre outs is the standard for any audio setup.

 

[Boomin_tahoe]

That looks like a stock HU made for mfgr's vehicles. That's nowhere near aftermarket. Sorry but if I haven't heard of the brand or unfamiliar with them, it's prob garbage. In this case, it's garbage.

Spending around 100-200 bucks will get you a very nice AFTERMARKET hu.

That said, how is that Rubicon amp treating you?

 

[Sizzlechest]

that head unit is what classifies as a toy head unit. Not a real Car audio head unit. Basically gives you features and bland weak sound with sh*T pre out voltages and cheap DACs. Going from an actual head unit to this wannabe smart tablet is obviously gonna have major negative effects on the sound system.
Seems your preout voltage strength is less than a volt. While 4 volt pre outs is the standard for any audio setup.

I am aware it is basically a cheap tablet built into a double din case, I never thought or implied it is anything more. Like I said, the clicking I get from the sub sounds like the base of the cone is smacking the magnet and doesn't sound like distortion or a sq issue.

I want to try to play from a different source and see what happens.

That looks like a stock HU made for mfgr's vehicles. That's nowhere near aftermarket. Sorry but if I haven't heard of the brand or unfamiliar with them, it's prob garbage. In this case, it's garbage.
Spending around 100-200 bucks will get you a very nice AFTERMARKET hu.

That said, how is that Rubicon amp treating you?

Yes I'm aware it's crap, what sold me is factory fitment without a kit and android..it's cool. I didn't buy this expecting sound quality.

Love my 1000.D, hardly gets warm and have had no issues at all. I also have a RUB4.500 running my front stage -- this one gets a bit warm and I'm getting a static sound from my front left speaker when listening to podcasts and in certain tones in songs..Very frustrating trying to figure this out, ive already replaced a Dayton audio reference series 3.5" thinking the speaker was bad

 

[Jeffdachef]

I am aware it is basically a cheap tablet built into a double din case, I never thought or implied it is anything more. Like I said, the clicking I get from the sub sounds like the base of the cone is smacking the magnet and doesn't sound like distortion or a sq issue.
I want to try to play from a different source and see what happens.

Yes I'm aware it's crap, what sold me is factory fitment without a kit and android..it's cool. I didn't buy this expecting sound quality.

Love my 1000.D, hardly gets warm and have had no issues at all. I also have a RUB4.500 running my front stage -- this one gets a bit warm and I'm getting a static sound from my front left speaker when listening to podcasts and in certain tones in songs..Very frustrating trying to figure this out, ive already replaced a Dayton audio reference series 3.5" thinking the speaker was bad

The amount of power you need to actually make the woofer slap the magnet is a lot. You dont have anywhere near enough power to actually bottom out an SA 12. Not even close. Those metal banging sounds you hear can easily be caused from a horrible distorted signal, a bad ground, etc.. If you were running a 2k amp then yeah that would be suspect to bottoming out. Or a 1.5k amp but you play something that actually plays low. Like 10-27hz low. OR have a 3 cubic feet sealed box for a single 12.... The song you listed is only down to 35hz. At that point the sub would be barely moving due to the frequency alone. IT takes a fk ton for a sub to reach mechanical Xmax aka bottoming out. Here's an example skip to 2:00 at 2:20 would be when the sub is actually bottoming out SLIGHTLY and thats how it really looks and sounds like. It took that much power on FREE air to reach that point. You are in a sealed box which prevents a lot of bottoming out due to the design of the box being an air spring cushion. so its VERY unlikely that you are bottoming out at all.

means everything worked fine and was setup right, only thing that changed is the new head unit then all these issues appeared. Either you moved a ground loose somehow or the chinese head unit's pre-outs is causing you all sorts of distortion with the sh*t signal.

 

[Sizzlechest]

Interesting, that's good news. What's a solution for bad ground, just regrounding somewhere else? I have 4 gauge now and I thought it was solid but I can double check

And no, the head unit has been there since day 1.

I noticed this after upgrading firmware but that's not to say it wasn't happening before. I can only hear the clicking when I'm in front of the sub. I was resetting gain/freq because I was changing EQ settings in the radio.

I have the radio and amps all grounded at the same location because I read this is best.. not sure if this matters

Maybe I'll revert back and see what happens. I really like this radio

 

[tymoto21]

Pull the sub and free air it a bit to see if you hear any ticks as you take up the power

I don't think it's the h/u

Many many people have used those eonon units with great results

You probably are near the upper limits of the sub

 

[Sizzlechest]

Pull the sub and free air it a bit to see if you hear any ticks as you take up the power
I don't think it's the h/u

Many many people have used those eonon units with great results

You probably are near the upper limits of the sub

That's what I think, but jeff said I'm not even close

 

[EnvoyDenalii]

Interesting, that's good news. What's a solution for bad ground, just regrounding somewhere else? I have 4 gauge now and I thought it was solid but I can double check
And no, the head unit has been there since day 1.

I noticed this after upgrading firmware but that's not to say it wasn't happening before. I can only hear the clicking when I'm in front of the sub. I was resetting gain/freq because I was changing EQ settings in the radio.

I have the radio and amps all grounded at the same location because I read this is best.. not sure if this matters

Maybe I'll revert back and see what happens. I really like this radio

Why do you like the hu? Seems like a p.o.s. to me. I mean really... It doesnt even have a name... Like u said it goes by a couple different names. All that money spent on an amp and sub and u ruin it by a garbage deck. Smh

 

[Sizzlechest]

Why do you like the hu? Seems like a p.o.s. to me. I mean really... It doesnt even have a name... Like u said it goes by a couple different names. All that money spent on an amp and sub and u ruin it by a garbage deck. Smh

Lol, what does a label matter?

I like it because it has a factory fit, I like having android, and no big name manufacturers make these units yet, plus I'm no hardcore sq person..I obviously want it to sound decent, and it does and has up until now. You sound like the type that would say my amps **** too because they are soundstream and were ~$150.