Subwoofers quit

[Mo Gunz]

2 12" Rockville 1000w rms subs powered by a 2000w pyle was playing fine and I wasn't pushing the subs hard at all and then they just stopped playing. Amp green light stays on

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[HardofWhoring]

Was this a new install?

If you have a multimeter, you can do this to check your amp's output.

If the voltage at the amp terminals is what it should be, and the wire is good, then you've just narrowed it down to the subs, and can check the resistance of the coils.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Sounds like what's left is a "Pyle" of "Rocks" so to speak... What amp and is green good or bad? If both subs died at the same time, probably the amp. What is the model of the am &, subs? Are you able to power the subs with another source to see if the play at all?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Sounds like what's left is a "Pyle" of "Rocks" so to speak... What amp and is green good or bad? If both subs died at the same time, probably the amp. What is the model of the am &, subs? Are you able to power the subs with another source to see if the play at all?

Do not exonerate the source just yet.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Yeah, with a green light, could be the source too. I picked a starting point for the two most obvious things, and if he doesn't have voltage he can work backwards. If he does the look forward.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well, I'm guessing, but I'm thinking that this is a PLA2378 2000-watt M A X - P O W E R amplifier which is barely pushing 200 watts bridged, if that (2x15amp fuses, dead giveaway). So, pushing a couple of 12s, instead of sixes, might be a bit of a chore. That said, I was able to find the specs and what the indicator lights mean on this amp. I never assumed, needed to know. Green is good so back to the HU. I'm still not convinced that the amp didn't take a dump and is simply not in protect mode, that's possible. ANYTHING is possible in this scenario, guess we'll have to wait for the OP to get back to use.

 

[Mo Gunz]

Was this a new install?

If you have a multimeter, you can do this to check your amp's output.

If the voltage at the amp terminals is what it should be, and the wire is good, then you've just narrowed it down to the subs, and can check the resistance of the coils.

No it was a pro install done a few years ago. I took it to an audio tech and yeah, the amp had a stroke (RIP) thanks for the info

 

[Mo Gunz]

Sounds like what's left is a "Pyle" of "Rocks" so to speak... What amp and is green good or bad? If both subs died at the same time, probably the amp. What is the model of the am &, subs? Are you able to power the subs with another source to see if the play at all?

Green is good amp had a stroke and passed away subs are still living gonna rebuild thanks

 

[Mo Gunz]

I didn't know anything about ohms and changed my subs from two 4 ohm 1300w peak sony xplod's to two 2 ohm 4000w peak rockville 1000w rms subs that were all wired parallel powered by the Pyle 2000w 2 channel mosfet amp and shortly afterwards the subs quit working. Now I'm faced with the issue of what wattage amp to replace the dead one with without doing the Big 3 upgrade or upgrading my working alternator to avoid dimming headlights etc. Any suggestions?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Unfortunately, not doing the big three and putting another amp in is kinds of like putting the cart in front of the horse. But my latest go to budget monobloc amps are the Stinger line. They are all 1 ohm stable and will deliver more than enough power. The best value of the four models available s the 1500 watt unit here:

Amazon product ASIN B0BN2BG2M1
You'd be hard pressed to find a better value. If your able to wire the subs to 4 ohms until you have time to upgrade the electrical (and no HO alt needed, but big 3 recommended) you'll still realize 3 times the power that you were ever going to get from the Pyle amplifier and you will not stress out the current electrical system. If you can provide the actual subs, I can provide you the way you can wire them in this scenario.


This is pretty much as good as it gets in your situation.

If the extra $40 is a deal breaker (no judgment) then go with the 700 watt Stinger and run the subs at 1 ohm and you will realize almost 4 times the output that you could have got from the Pyle amplifier. At the end of the day, that amp is just not a good amplifier and a extremely poor sub amplifier.