i really cant describe it. its weird. but it just does it really quick and stops. but yea that sounds like what it might be. the only thing i can think of why it just started doing it is because before i had no electrical upgrades and my voltage dropped really low and im guessing made the amp put out less power. and now i have 2 upgraded batteries and the big 3 and now i get hardly any voltage drop so im guessing the subs just started seeing more power. thats my guess. and the first time it had happened it was after playing it for about 30 minutes. so im guessing that could be it. and thats the first thing i did when this happened is push on the sub and it felt normal.so are these subs about done?
The fact that it doesn't produce a rubbing noise might mean that it's not the driver. I still am guessing that it is though.
Here are some more of my thoughts on what could be happening:
It's hard to tell without being there, of course, but they might run fine for a while. Just because heat damage is generally permanent, it doesn't mean the drivers will get worse, as long as your careful. The damage might not even be an issue for most conditions, but if you keep pushing them hard, they're probably going to fry.
I'm also not 100% sure it's a driver failure, even though it does sound like it to me. Was the noise so loud that you heard it over your highs, or was it just the stopping of all sound, and then the noise after that you heard? If they stopped producing any sound at all, they could have literally started shorting out. This can be a very bad thing as it could put your amplifier at risk.
Are both speakers running off of the same amplifier channel? If both speakers stopped at the same time, and are running off of separate channels, it could actually be the amp. Even if they're running off of the same channel, it's a possibility that the amp is failing. The reason I'm guessing that's not the issue is because most modern car amps have decent protection circuits, and would shut down on purpose rather than go into a partial shutdown mode and wreck havoc.
If they're under warranty, the manufacturer might be willing to take a look at them for free, or not. I would email their support team and ask them what they think maybe happening, and if they'd be willing to run a diagnostic on them for you. They may be able to see right away by just checking resistance levels across the terminals with an ohmmeter.
Keep in touch and let us know what you find out. It may help out others that run into a similar situation.