Subs and Enclosure Volume Question (help!!)

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I'm trying to put subs in my Chevy 2500. Its a work truck, and my daily driver. It hauls everything from a Bobcat to dogs and kids. Love it.

I have found under seat sealed enclosures for it. .92 ft per side. They will work for me because my dogs cant get to them and my guys can still use the rear seat. At the moment i have some random Sony 12' sub (i dont know what one. Its strange shaped. I found it) in a generic sealed box. Its just shoved behind the passenger seat. Its ok, but it brought me down to three seats and gives Crash (my 10mo old chocolate) access to the wires.

So i want to swap to the under seat box. I was going to buy two Skar DDX 10. they will fit in the box and review well.. But it wants 1.5 ft air volume. I looked at the sundown SA 10 which on paper and to the eye appears to be the exact same thing... But that wants .5 to 1.0. at an extra $100/pr sub.

That was the long route to the question, WHY? What is so different that one will work fine and the other one will be choked out? Can i throw the skar in there and be fine?

There are a lot of low profile subs that will work in that price range, but if i can fit a full sized i would like to.

What would you do? and again. why the huge difference?? are there options out in the world im missing? Money is a big object.. I can fabricate, i work with metal. Im not good with wood.. So building a big box is not a good option for me but i'm not against lifting the seat.

Today i got so frustrated that i almost bought a new winch with the $ and said f' it but i came here for help first. (do you guys swear here? I run the hawkgtforum. We do over there.)
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I've been in option paralysis for weeks!!! Some help here from folks in the know would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks y'all,
6
 
What’s the front height and back height under the seat? If it’s tall enough you could get a couple of 8” subs and fire them forward. Most require little air space, even ported, so you have plenty of choices. And ported would give you more volume.
 
What’s the front height and back height under the seat? If it’s tall enough you could get a couple of 8” subs and fire them forward. Most require little air space, even ported, so you have plenty of choices. And ported would give you more volume.
Interesting option. Never really thought about 8's. I read/heard that fitting the largest speaker you have room for is the move to make. and although there is technicaly room for 12's there really isn't the air space for them.
Overall volume is nice, but more volume that doesn't sound great (not saying that would be the case with ported, i don't know enough about it. ) isn't for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MWT4O/?tag=caraudiocom-20

This is the box i was looking at. judging from those dimensions there is about 9.5" to work with. I could measure after i plow.

Subs are going to run off of my Skar 1200.1 amp.
 
Personally, I’d get a custom ported box built and just throw one good 10 under there or do 2 8s ported. Most pre-fab boxes aren’t very good, but if you wanna try it, maybe go with 2 SSA Demon 10s. I’ve had their ICON and it sounded great. Most 12s are gonna want more air space so you probably wanna stick to 10s.
 
I have a pair of 12"s in the boxes sitting here that would work well under the rear seat.
Dayton HO 12's if you have any interest hit me up.

Edit to add: These 12's will work in as small as .33 cubes each sealed and .98 ported each.
 
If it is an 08-13 crew cab silverado without a seat lift 2 8s are the biggest you can go front fire. 4 6.5s can front fire as well. Only way you gonna front fire 10s is with a 3inch seat lift.
 
If it is an 08-13 crew cab silverado without a seat lift 2 8s are the biggest you can go front fire. 4 6.5s can front fire as well. Only way you gonna front fire 10s is with a 3inch seat lift.


It's an 04, so first gen. I'm not sure how different the rear seat is.

Your set-up looks awesome. I'm not scared of a seat lift. It being higher wouldn't bother me and I could make the lift no issue. Unfortunately I can't build a box and can't afford to pay someone to build one and afaik there is nothing for sale that's meant to fit there.
 
Personally, I’d get a custom ported box built and just throw one good 10 under there or do 2 8s ported. Most pre-fab boxes aren’t very good, but if you wanna try it, maybe go with 2 SSA Demon 10s. I’ve had their ICON and it sounded great. Most 12s are gonna want more air space so you probably wanna stick to 10s.
Thanks for the recommendation man.

I'll check them out.

I'm taking a trip to NH on Tuesday, if I hadn't procrastinated so much to this point I would have them in the truck for the trip.
 
That's what I ended up going with. I'm putting Sundown SA 10's in it dual 4ohms so I can wire it to 1.. subs will be here tomorrow.

This may not be the best way to go, but it gets the bass in the truck for now, gets me my rear seats back, and I can go from there.

In the future if I need to do a round 2, I can.

I would love a bigger box that IS the rear seat my workers and my dogs are the only ones who ever ride back there. I don't need it to pivot nor do I need 8" of padding.

Maybe I'll dig deep this winter and learn to wood work. I've got all the tools, my shop is more than set up, but I work with metal and wood is an entirely different animal.
 
That's what I ended up going with. I'm putting Sundown SA 10's in it dual 4ohms so I can wire it to 1.. subs will be here tomorrow.

This may not be the best way to go, but it gets the bass in the truck for now, gets me my rear seats back, and I can go from there.

In the future if I need to do a round 2, I can.

I would love a bigger box that IS the rear seat my workers and my dogs are the only ones who ever ride back there. I don't need it to pivot nor do I need 8" of padding.

Maybe I'll dig deep this winter and learn to wood work. I've got all the tools, my shop is more than set up, but I work with metal and wood is an entirely different animal.
If you can do measurements and know a little geometry it shouldn’t be too hard for you. Being a metal worker you probably already have all the skills necessary to make a decent box first time out. You should give it a shot. If it looks bad but works well you can always just fill the gaps with some body putty and zap it with some bed liner and make anything look decent. You can use the prefab as a guide and just build yours higher. Maybe get some help with the internal measurements, port length etc. here so you know how high it needs to be and how long the port should be.
 
If you can do measurements and know a little geometry it shouldn’t be too hard for you. Being a metal worker you probably already have all the skills necessary to make a decent box first time out. You should give it a shot. If it looks bad but works well you can always just fill the gaps with some body putty and zap it with some bed liner and make anything look decent. You can use the prefab as a guide and just build yours higher. Maybe get some help with the internal measurements, port length etc. here so you know how high it needs to be and how long the port should be.
Maybe I'll give it a go. This box has to be placed on wooden spacers to not have the subs hit the floor..

I'm usually up for a project and I do have a LOT of woodworking tools here that the previous manager bought and never used..

ATM the subs are louder and sound a lot better than my speakers, so I'm on that quest this week. But after that and after I get a subframe built for my kids honda I'll have time for a new undertaking.
 
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Sorry for the double post, I meant to post this in the enclosure section. Mods can delete if needed.
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Well, get Two then and try to share for peeks sake!! :poop: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
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Additinally, no need to reference "max" anything as those specs are useless. Most of know how to look at specs for a given speaker, amp, HU, etc...
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