sub, box, amp combo good?

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Gitsum

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Am I ok with this combo Im considering? Box guy wants 500 so im looking at premade.

jbl ms A5001

dayton HO 10" DVC

supercrewsound 0.8cf sealed 5 3/8 mounting depth

2013 F 150 extended cab

also, would I be able to add a second 10 to the amp later on? Or maybe step down to 2 8"'s? Would this even be an upgrade? looking for sq.

 
[quote name='Gitsum']Am I ok with this combo Im considering? Box guy wants 500 so im looking at premade.

jbl ms A5001
dayton HO 10" DVC
supercrewsound 0.8cf sealed 5 3/8 mounting depth

2013 F 150 extended cab

also, would I be able to add a second 10 to the amp later on? Or maybe step down to 2 8"'s? Would this even be an upgrade? looking for sq.[/QUOTE]

Your amp is barely enough to run 1 dayton HO. I would look into getting a bigger amp to run 2 or just go 1 ported and you might be satisfied. The dayton HO works in both sealed or ported but it really does better on the low end when ported. Hit up @CSCStang to see if he'll build you a custom box within your budget. He does great work and is totally affordable. If you're willing to take up more space for SQ, T-line boxes are the way to go. Will get you very good output for 1 sub and very wide range.

BTW Cone sizes has nothing to do with SQ.. but the dayton HO is a great SQ driver that can play a variety of music. They don't make a 8" version so stick with the 10" or get a second one with a bigger amp.
 
Those Dayton HO subs sound much better in a sealed enclosure from my experiencing them..1.2-1.6 .They didnt enjoy being ported/sound very well as sealed.Id also look into an American Bass VFL Mini Hybrid 26801 d to place on that sub as well. Be a perfect match in my opinion especially for that truck for space reasoning.

 
OK thanks guys. I think Im gonna give this pre made box a try since it is affordable and garunteed to fit. Then based on its performance I can decide if I wanna play with porting. Then if I still am not satisfied will look at going dual with new power and then Im sure I will be asking about that set up as well. This truck has much less room to work with than I originally thought. (or I would have just run a single 12" and been done)

Parts Express shows the DVC at 0.55cf sealed and 1.5cf ported. Should I even consider this info? I can always add material to reduce volume or port to find a sweet spot right?

As far as playing with the box, adding poly acts to INCREASE box size? I think I read that somewhere.

 
OK thanks guys. I think Im gonna give this pre made box a try since it is affordable and garunteed to fit. Then based on its performance I can decide if I wanna play with porting. Then if I still am not satisfied will look at going dual with new power and then Im sure I will be asking about that set up as well. This truck has much less room to work with than I originally thought. (or I would have just run a single 12" and been done)
Parts Express shows the DVC at 0.55cf sealed and 1.5cf ported. Should I even consider this info? I can always add material to reduce volume or port to find a sweet spot right?

As far as playing with the box, adding poly acts to INCREASE box size? I think I read that somewhere.
It doesn't necessarily increase box size but it does slow its movements down to sound like it's in a larger box than it is.

The dayton ho 10 likes small boxes so it can work in 1 cu ported or even smaller if you wanted. If you wanna experiment with sealed, try to aim for qtc .707 buttersworth to get a very flat response. Honestly I think you should give a T line a try if you want to get the most out of a single sub. For the amount you're spending on a remade one, you can already get a custom one made for you for about the same or less.

 
It doesn't necessarily increase box size but it does slow its movements down to sound like it's in a larger box than it is.
The dayton ho 10 likes small boxes so it can work in 1 cu ported or even smaller if you wanted. If you wanna experiment with sealed, try to aim for qtc .707 buttersworth to get a very flat response. Honestly I think you should give a T line a try if you want to get the most out of a single sub. For the amount you're spending on a remade one, you can already get a custom one made for you for about the same or less.


Id like to try the T line but its going under the back seat in a truck. No way one would ever fit.

If I port the 0.8 premade should I make the volume smaller or leave it big? (I would just glue and screw a divider) And what port size would be best either way?

 
Id like to try the T line but its going under the back seat in a truck. No way one would ever fit.
If I port the 0.8 premade should I make the volume smaller or leave it big? (I would just glue and screw a divider) And what port size would be best either way?
I think you should add an external aeroport, flared if possible, or maybe you can fit a passive radiator in it. I don't know if you'll be able to fit a port inside of that small space. If you can, then go for it. I would probably go for a 3" flared aeroport if I were to choose.

How much are you paying for that pre made one anyway?

 
i like that aero port idea. how would I determine what size I would need?
premade is 150
Wow 150 seems pretty steep for a sealed prefab. Ask CSCStang to see what he can do for you. You can also try Boomsday and compare prices. How much port area you need is dependent on a lot of things really. It could be size of woofer, how much air it pushes, how many woofers are being shared in the same chamber, etc.. If the vent is too small, it could induce some port noise and shuffling. The lows can suffer from it and it'll sound like it's choking when you put the gains up. If the port is too big, it will have a big peak and a narrower bandwidth. You can use winisd to see if the port you use is large enough. For 1 10" dayton HO, you don't really need that much port area, especially if you choose to go with flared.

 
cool thanks for the info. I thought 150 was pretty good compared to the 500 the local guy wanted but Ill def contact cscstang.

why is it that my 500 rms is barely enough for the 600 rms dayton? I thought that is just abour right no?

 
cool thanks for the info. I thought 150 was pretty good compared to the 500 the local guy wanted but Ill def contact cscstang.
why is it that my 500 rms is barely enough for the 600 rms dayton? I thought that is just abour right no?
You want to have some headroom or the amp will be struggling to push the sub. With a 500 watt amp pushing a 600 watt sub, the amp will have to be pushing it's limits often. It'd be like driving full throttle all the time.

 
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