Stock electrical okay for 800ish rms?

[Moofs 10+ year member]

The car is a 1994 toyota paseo. So its small.

The system I have planned is a two amp setup.

2 channel amp, 70rms to components: 140rms

Mono amp: 500rms

HU: 20rms x 4: 80rms

Other stuff (AC, lights, etc) I dont know: 80rms

I'm guessing on that last number and the HU but it's probably around there. Will my stock electrical be enough? I heard you dont need to upgrade until your like at 1000-1500rms but I just wanna make sure.

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[Fiendstolemyamp 10+ year member]

Do the big 3 & you should be good. Know the size of your stock alt?

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Your alt looks to be about 70a. You're pretty much at the limit of that with what youre running. Do a big 3 upgrade and you'll be fine. What kind of amps are you using?

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

I always measure the output of my lights, power mirrors and power antenna in rms.

 

[Moofs 10+ year member]

It's got NO power locks, windows, antenna or mirrors.

The amp will probably be an alpine mrp-500.

I'm still piecing it all together. My original sub/amp combo was gonna only be 300rms but I figured I step it up and go for 500.

Just wanted to make sure it would all be okay. I dont want lights dimming, car running out of power or something else involving electrical problems.

I'll eventually do the big 3 in 4g. As for the alt, i think its 70amps

 

[Moofs 10+ year member]

btw guys. what's the "right" way to do the big 3. other than buying cable and connectors don't I need to fuse one of them and get a special kinda battery terminal for the negative that can fit multiple wires?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Yea good battery terminal 0gauge wire and soldered connections work fine. The fuse is optional since the wire you use will never be pushed past it's limit by a 70amp alt. Some people tech flex or loom their wire to add protection though high quality wire will be fine if routed away from excessive heat and moving parts. Try and do it in 0 gauge 4gauge will work but it adds more resistance than 0gauge meaning less power

 

[Moofs 10+ year member]

thanks! so I'll get the 0g, the battery terminal (negative right?) and the connections.

 

[grandam888 10+ year member]

I would also recommend a positive battery terminal. You going to have wiring for the car audio going to positive terminal, and also larger wire from alternator to battery, and you may or may not be having to accommodate the starter wire on the battery also. You will need some sort of aftermarket solution on both terminals.

 

[Moofs 10+ year member]

Thanks! So I'll get basically a distribution terminal for both. I'll prob do it in 4g and just fuse it as well.