Stereo Install Questions - Port freq? and Power Delivery?

[DonVanhugenstyn]

I'll start with my car and system details.

Car 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier, stock alt 105amp, Optima red top, 1/0 gauge from battery to rear, the 1/0 Rockford wire splits with a fused block into two 4 gauge outputs. Basically I did want to put two amplifiers -1 mono n' 1 4channel- so that's the reason for splitting the 1/0 into 2 4awg runs.

Probably only about 1foot or less of 4awg would be used once I setup the 2nd amp and cut the wire down.

Currently I have the 1/0 at its longest uncut and fused at the front then to the rear it goes to the fused distribution block and the 4awg which is uncut for now too so its quite long.

The ground is 1/0 into a distribution block too unfused with 2 4awg out.

So the only amp in place and wired right now is a 1600watt rms Cadence D1600M to two Kicker CompR subwoofers. Fused at the distribution block for 120amps which should be fine for 4awg wire.

With the car cold the alternator puts out a lovely 14.4v steady at full volume n idle. Once it heats up the alternator puts out 13.8 and will dip to 13.2 on heavy bass notes or longer base notes etc. I know alternators will drop some voltage when warm that's just how they work but the fact that it not only drops to 13.8 but it also starts dipping to 13.2 has made me hesitant to add my 2nd 400 watt Cadence 4channel amp.

Basically, I don't want to buy two new batteries to add a 2nd battery. I hear if I have 2 I should have 2 that are bought at the same time. And I just cant afford 2 new batteries right now.

So I want to know. Should I either A) Try out the Big3 will it fix my voltage droop and leave headroom for the 2nd 400watt amp. B) Get a high output alternator for about $300-$400 (200amp @ 1200rpm) and do the Big 3 with it. C) Get 1 new battery and put it in the trunk, 2 new battery's isn't a option as that would run $600 and the high output alternator sorta isn't either but I can pinch my pennies for it.

Keep in mind, my voltage drop from 13.8 to 13.2 is at idle and full volume. Which doesn't seem to bad on a stock 105amp alt. I'm probably killing my alt and workin that battery hard but I try not to pump it right now because I don't want the alt to go on me working to keep voltage.

I set the amp with a oscilloscope and the ZRS D1600M distortion detection is actually right on par with when the amp clips according to my oscilloscope which was nice to see. The amps 1600rms is rated at 13.8v not 14.4v like a lot of other amps. I never did double check with a DMM to see what kinda wattage its putting out but its more than enough for me anyways. It will be way more than I need once I findout the port tune on my box (prefab box) and set my ssf, right now for fear of port unloading the ssf is at 50hz cause I cant find my port tuning... Maybe someone can help me figure that out too?

Id really like to add my 2nd amp the front speakers don't keep up with my subs volume wise right now and I only installed 1 set of components, which I think once amplified may be enough. If not I have a 2nd set to wire but id make a custom mount to put both sets in the front doors. Something to worry about later. Right now I want to keep the 1 amp stable @ 13.8v and set the ssf properly for the port. Then add the 2nd amp @ 100watts to a set of components aswell so I can hear the music over my bass.

I don't want to half *** it so if it ends up that for the 2000watts rms at full volume I need to do something specific I will. But I don't know what I need to do and don't want to go out getting parts that I don't need. If a Big 3 is all I need great but if I get it and later find I need more I'm not sure if a 2nd battery or a high output alternator is what I need or both? I really don't think 2000watts is a ton of power and don't see me needing a 2nd batt + alternator. Battery is cheaper than a alternator but I don't want to be killing my stock alt either.... Pls help XD

Oh and if I only run 1 set of components it will only be 1800watts rms I wouldn't need the other 200watts from the 4 channel unless I decide to add the other set of components. And then on music it wont even be 1800watts rms so all of these sites saying I need a 160+amp alternator make me wonder were they get their numbers from, they're treating their equation like the guys going to run test tones like at a competition and I certainly am not.

Sry for the long post I want to give all the information I can.

Edit: So Kicker says the box is:

Box Top Depth (in, cm)

13-15/16, 35.4

Box Bottom Depth (in, cm)

17-3/8, 44.1

Box Height (in, cm)

16, 40.6

Box Width (in, cm)

31-7/8, 81

So roughly its 3.342 cu. ft. with a 6inch diameter port that's 16inches long If my measurements of the port are accurate and they should be close enough. So with that I get 35hz port. Sounds about right to you guys? I emailed Kicker for a confirmation of that calculation, So if its 35hz port I can set the ssf to 25hz and be ok?

Click to read more...

 

[big scott]

do the big 3 first.

and check voltage after.

and dropping to 13.2 is not bad.

and you dont have to buy 2 at the same time.

im running 2 different types of batteries and its all good.

also if the kickers came in that box, there never right.

and kickers are no good, or there boxes.

 

[DonVanhugenstyn]

do the big 3 first.and check voltage after.

and dropping to 13.2 is not bad.

and you dont have to buy 2 at the same time.

im running 2 different types of batteries and its all good.

also if the kickers came in that box, there never right.

and kickers are no good, or there boxes.

I know 13.2v isn't terrible but considering I'm only playing music not test tones and its dipping, and I want to add my 4channel amp for the component speakers, I don't have any light dimming which is nice. But Id like to add the 2nd amp and keep a nice voltage too of atleast 13.8v which is what the amps are rated for their rms. But 13.2 and 13.8 aren't to far off, in a perfect world Id want 14.4v but I don't think that's possible without a farad capacitor which 50% of people say don't get one the other 50% say get it. So I've never bothered.

Also I am reluctant to spend $400 on a 200amp alternator if my 105amp can do it, But am I stressing the alternator?

And still were to set my ssf ? The port tuning is 33hz-35hz. ish no less than 33hz no more than 35hz. So were should I set my ssf? the rest of the internet says 25hz, In my first system I always had the ssf set to as low as it could go, usually 15hz.

But this system is my 2nd completely new system and on the old one I blew 3 amps. This ones been going strong for a year I bought a oscilloscope and a DMM and did as much research as I could, So far so good. But I'm not experienced in the field of alternators and extra batteries. Also those farad capacitors. And I never worried about the ssf before keeping it wide open never hurt the subwoofers, but did it contribute to blowing 3amps? I think that was my gain settings probably since I never had a DMM then or a oscilloscope and set it by if the sub distorted and not properly to were the amp starts to clip and square off.

Still If the amp wont be affected by setting ssf wide open is it potentially dangerous to do that for the subwoofers? I only listen to music no test tones or anything except for setting the gains and filters but I don't have the subs on for that.

 

[DonVanhugenstyn]

Hello anyone? SSF filter? open it up if all I listen to is music? or set it to around 25hz? what do I do with it please... Should I just set it for best sound?, My subs face rearward in my trunk and my amp is mounted to my seat, I cant set the filter while watching the subs.

And when my rear seats folded down I go deff real fast, usually significant loss of hearing for an hour or so once I get out of my car If I've been workin the subs for awhile. So setting by ear is a little hard to be accurate, id rather get a # like 25hz and set there with a dmm with subs not hooked in so I'm not stressing them on a test tone. This 25hz # is off the internet, I'm not sure how accurate it is and many say it depends on the box and etc.

Its a 3.34 cu. ft. 35hz port I believe, Incase my calculations are off I played around and is not anymore than 35hz and no less than 33hz tuning on the port. So what is a safe setting? lets say its 35hz tuned just incase its not a 33hz so I have a more safe setting.

 

[big scott]

no to the caps, there junk.

the ssf get set to 5-7hz under your box tuning.

like i said,

do the big 3

add another amg battery in the back.

when you do that, keep an eye on your voltage. if it drops to much then you will need a alt.

anything from 12.8 and up is fine. just dont keep hammering it at that voltage.

my system is in my sig...

i drop to 12.6 and im good with that...... o thats at idle.

 

[DonVanhugenstyn]

Oh ok. I was to unsure about caps to buy one, being that people seem to be on the 50% junk 50% amazing side. And the only benefit I can see off one is the 14.4v it displays but I see it as a stress on my alternator which is something I want to avoid not add onto so I haven't bothered to get one and wont thanks.

Ok well Ill do the big 3, add the 2nd amp. Set the ssf at 28-30hz since its a 35hz port tuning. If I'm dropping to 13.2 or less still I will add the 2nd battery because I just want peace of mind that I don't have to watch it dropping lower or stress out my alternator. I can only test at idle so its probably holding a lot better than 13.2v while I drive depending on my rpms and traffic etc but I cant see that, The only voltage I have is the DMM and the amp's display which are on par with eachother but its not really a great idea to drive while looking behind myself at the amp on the back seat.

And you being ok with 12.6 at idle makes me feel better.

Thanks for answering my ssf question people online had all sorts of answers from 1/2 octave to 1/3 to 1/4 and on and on with the theory's. I think ill be happy with 28-30hz I don't think there is a lot of music pushing that low.

And if I cant keep hammering it at 12.8 constantly I'll have to do some changes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif but thanks for the advice I already ordered some wire in from my local store they were out. I have the ring terminals, just going to use some XS hyperflex 1/0 wire, probably overkill but the price difference is so little its $2.60/ft and for the big 3 I don't need much of the wire at all so that's on the way. If its not enough Ill add a 2nd Optima redtop. Hopefully then with some more reserve power the points were I'm in traffic it will be ok until I can start moving and get the rpm's up.

advice is appreciated thanks.

 

[dev199505]

13.2 at idle isn't bad you have to remember the 105amps your alt is rated at is max. At idle your probably only getting 50-60amp and a percentage of that is being used by other electronics in the car your alt probably puts out it full 105Amps at 2,700-3500rpm doing the big 3 will more than likely minimize the the voltage drop and a second battery as long as you run good cable to it will give you more head room for upgrade but it wouldn't hurt to add a second amp now

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