Speaker Question New Car

[Zeek]

I just upgraded my vehicle and the Kenwoods the guy has in the system are too small and really don't pump much sound. The sound is much better now that I have my Kenwood player in but I'm not pleased with the speakers.

Vehicle

Jeep Liberty 2004 Limited

My Stereo is

KDC-x395

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X395 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

My old speakers were KFC-x693

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X693 6" x 9" 3-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

The new vehicle takes 6" 3/4 speakers but can fit 6 1/2 and it's the same size for front and back. I power these with just the stereo and use my amp for my modest sub.

I'm looking for something with similar sound (or perhaps better) but I'm kind of a novice at selecting decent speakers.

I tried shopping similar specs and I kept getting these as a result...not sure why most sites sell for $120 a set when Amazon sells for $60 a set.

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kfc-P709Ps-6-5-Inch-Performance-Component/dp/B0037PH2CY

Appreciate any help/advise you can offer. Please note I'm not an obnoxious bass blasting kinda guy, I just like clean crisp music with a bit of boom.

*edit*

I gotta say the more I read on this the more confused I become. If aftermarket stereos can't pump out the power to get the most out of your speakers would you just look for something that's close and costs less or is there a value still if you don't use an amp? If the RMS is 22 on the stereo is that 22 per speaker or total between 4? If so then how do you factor the wattage per rms?

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Please, always post what vehicle you have when you need help with choosing speakers. Year/make/model

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

You can't even get rated power out of a head unit because the distortion above 70% volume is too high to enjoy listening to.

For any appreciable volume and clarity, an external amp is used.

When installing the speakers, the methods used are very important. This is how i install speakers to ensure seals are maintained.

A better set of budget components are here:

Polk Audio db6501 6-1/2" component speaker system — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com

matching coax for rear:

Polk Audio db651 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers — for 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Do you have speakers in the dash? Even if you don't, there is something we can do up there whether it's a ~3" speaker or a smaller tweeter.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i agree, the factory 3" is a fine tweeter location or a 3-1/2" coaxial can work very well up there.

trumpet can hook you up.

 

[Zeek]

Thank you for the replies, I have been trying to understand the basics here and I must admit it can get pretty overwhelming. I do have two tweeters in the dash, not interested in cutting larger speakers in. I'm just a basic listener that happened into some basic equipment a few months back.

I do actually have a external amp, a Alpine MRP-F450 4 channel (also got a 600w 2 channel that I use for my sub, and 100w 2 channel that I don't use) that I got for $20 (all three amps + my sub speakers for $20) off a guy down the street. I could run the Alpine MRP-F450 4 channel that would give each speaker 70watts. I was also told I could splice right into the plug to avoid running new wire since my system is "low end" and pulls less than 75w per speaker. Not sure how accurate this is but I'm just building a decent system with a paupers budget.

I do want to run new wire though just because I had a water leak issue from the rubber grommet in my door (which took me the last week to solve) and was thinking either 14g or 16g wire. I wont ever upgrade to a high-end system so I was pushing for 16g for price/performance needs but I wonder if I should pay extra for 14g.

*edit*

added in the amp model # Alpine MRP-F450

100FT of 14ga wire for $18 vs $13 for 100FT of 16ga wire....will this work?

http://www.amazon.com/AH1450SR-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-feet/dp/B002JP4Z96