Speaker demons

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Jjones696

CarAudio.com Newbie
Just want to preface this I’m not an audio expert by any means in fact this is the first issue ever I’ve attempted to fix.

my SO just purchased a 96 Buick lesabre as her first vehicle, and since purchasing I noticed the two 6x9 rear deck speakers don’t output whatsoever, the front driver side works all the time and the passenger side is on and off. Last night I attempted to fix it to no avail, however I did rule out the radio as being the problem (no loose connections there) also pulled the passenger door card out and the connection there was tight, also should note that both doors have a mid/woofer and a tweeter. The tweeter on the passenger side works but the mid/woofer is on and off. I purchased a very rudimentary voltage tester from autozone to see if there was any electrical connection at all (I’ve read you really need a multimeter to read OHMS but I made do with that) and I discovered the following, there is no continuity between the red and black terminals on the mid& rear deck speakers but when you touch bare metal on the door frame with the red terminal connected there is continuity (ground I assume) at first I thought that must be it but the tweeter which works does the same thing so that killed that idea pretty quickly. I also swapped the wire from the tweeter to the mid (both run of the same amount of ohms/power so I wasn’t risking burning anything down) and the speaker still wasn’t working. Fuses are fine the speaker worked for a little bit today but is back to not working, I haven’t even attempted to look at the rear ones yet, what could the issue be? I’m leaning towards a grounding issue/short because the speaker works depending on how big of a bump you hit but as I said I’m not an audio expert.

EDIT
I’m going to test all three speakers with a 9volt battery when I’m off work this evening to rule out a blown speaker.
 
Ok. First thing. Speakers are AC, not DC. A tool that only reads DC voltage for a car is not going to be usable testing speakers. If anything you are risking damage to the stereo trying to use it.
A cheap multimeter can be had for about $7 at places like Harbor Freight. It can be used to test the speakers, the speaker wires and the output of the stereo very quickly.
 
From what the continuity tester I purchased says, it’s labeled as testing AC current. What would the most likely culprit be knowing fuses are fine, speakers aren’t blown. Would it be a exposed wires shorting each other out? Bad ground?
 
Paper cone speakers usually fall prey to door moisture. Paper absorbs moisture and causes oxidation behind the epoxy on the voice coil and lead solder point. I have seen it many times on speakers that look in mint condition.
Makes sense the pass. Door guts had an alarming amount of moisture in it from a leak I’ve since patched. I just ordered better aftermarket speakers for my vehicle so I’ll give the old oem ones a try in hers
 
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Jjones696

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