helotaxi
5,000+ posts
Kilroy was Here
Trying to use an unpowered sub as a passive radiator will at best sound bad. That being said, the original Speaker Warehouse Blazer that won the IASCA 0-100W category at the finals 4 times in a row had an enclosure for 4 iso-pairs of JL 10W5's that had a moveable baffle in it to change its internal volume. It was a custom flapper type valve that was gasketed and moved by a linear actuator, so it can be done, sort of.Is it feasible to have both sealed and ported enclosures switchable by some type of remote valve?
Specifically, I have a 350z that I am building a sealed fiberglass enclosure for my 10" Audiobahn aw1006t. Currently there is a ported enclosure behind the driver's seat and under the floor that I built for my 8" kicker comp vr (this enclosure now ports into the trunk space).
My idea is to link the fiberglass enclosure with the 10" sub to the hidden enclosure with the 8" sub. They would be linked by some type of remotely switchable valve so that when the valve is open, the unpowered 8" sub will act a passive radiator.
It won't be truely ported even when the valve is open, it will just increase air space and utilize a passive radiator to help boost lower frequencies.
Am I correct in my thinking? And does anyone know of a valve that I could use in this project? Any thoughts/ideas are appreciated! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I think you will be better off directing your energy elsewhere to get better sound, i.e. getting a basic enclosure to the proper size to optimize the 10 rather than trying to complicate the problem.
