Sooo......Active=FTW

[spencer321 10+ year member]

anyone do the ID oems (what are they 90 a pair?) with the seas 27tffnc tweets?

 

[Racerx250 10+ year member]

I'll say deadening the doors on my firebird helped my midbass out a bit. Could probably use a little bit more, but for now it's doing quite well.

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

I need lots more deadening //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[spencer321 10+ year member]

i think with any midbass driver that puts out mounted in the door, we could always use more deadening

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

One of the setups I listened to had a Hertz Hi energy 8" (one I plan on) in a little s-10 ranger thing. No deadening, only the proper enclosure within the door. Sounded AMAZING.

 

[Simek4life 10+ year member]

You don't need an active headunit if you have a rockford 360.2 correct?

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

I looked into it I believe the 360.2 is up to a 2 way on its own, but correct me if Im wrong. With another processor it could be used for more.

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

You don't need an active headunit if you have a rockford 360.2 correct?

That would be an external processor. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Correct.

 

[spencer321 10+ year member]

for anyone in this thread who is contemplating going active, but on a budget (like me) , the clarion 785 is a killer head unit, full 3 way active control with a bandpass filter on the sub channel and on the mid channel with a high pass on the tweeter channel (gives ability to go 4 way later on by splitting the sub channel into sub and midbass) has 6 volt pre outs, built in eq and time alignment and ipod control. and its about 140$ cheaper than the 9887 and the 880prs, half the price of the 800prs. I will say that the clarion is ugly as shit, but for the features its tough to beat. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18795

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

**** this thread sucks

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Active is when you split your hpf BEFORE amplification. Passive is when you split it AFTER amplification.
Edit: My 6x9s are also ran active =)

no

 

[916Kev 10+ year member]

Sounds like a lot of work. I'm cool running passive. Glad to hear you like active.

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

**** this thread sucks

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

Well my crossover adjustments, time correction and equalizer changed quite a bit during my driving today.

Ended up delaying the left side a little more and did a little adjustment to the second band in my eq.

The biggest change came from the adjustment of the crossovers.

This is how it looks now (once again still dont have a sub in):

Mid-L-L -1 50hz 24db

Mid-L-R 0 50hz 24db

Mid-H-L 0 3.2k 18db

Mid-H-R 0 3.2k 18db

High-L 0 12.5khz 24db

High-R 0 10khz 12db

Its wwaaaayyyy balanced and its getting scary how much better Im getting it to sound...learning along the way too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[blazeplacid 10+ year member]

active to me is just a bunch of hype

I ran some CDT HD active. Ran em with a Pioneer 960mp

Alpine amps all around.

Spent hours tunning.

Next car, I bought some CDT ES, ran em passive and gave em 200rms and they sound MUCH better

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

active to me is just a bunch of hype
I ran some CDT HD active. Ran em with a Pioneer 960mp

Alpine amps all around.

Spent hours tunning.

Next car, I bought some CDT ES, ran em passive and gave em 200rms and they sound MUCH better

Clearly you must not understand/comprehend the concepts at hand.