sony headunit wiring help needed

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Hey guys,

I'm trying to get a decent system into my new minivan, but I can't seem to sort out the headunit wiring properly...

My headunit is a Sony XR-U700

As the pic shows, there are a number of wires and I can understnad most of them except for the light blue/brown wire...

the rest are labelled, so I think it's where it's supposed to go..but the darn light blue wire... please help...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Click to read more...

 

[Steven 10+ year member]

There are two blue wires.

One is a remote wire, this has 12v on it when the deck is ON

The other is normally for a power Antenna, This has 12V on it only when the deck is on RADIO.

The best way to find out is to hook up the deck and turn it on.

Using a volt-meter check the two wires.

When the cd-player is on cd - only one of them should have power.

When the deck is on radio - Both should have power

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Thanks Steven...

but I was referring to that LIGHT blue cable, not the dark ones.. they're labelled at the bottom, one for AMP REM out (0.3a max) and one for ANT REM out (0.1a Max)

sorry, I know it's hard to see the colors at that size, but it's the only size that the forum would allow me to attach... so I've just decided to ignore that wire for the time being... don't think it was linked to anywhere anyway...some say it's for illumination...wuzzat?

Hey, I just read the flaming section... well, I don't have a kick-ass system, I don't know much about systems, but I do know I enjoy music and if it sounds great to my ears, it's enough... I've been had with high numbers in shops before too.. I know my system would have to work incredibly hard to reach 130Db, but they claimed it's 140+Db... oh, and the wattage...you get the picture...

I don't have many facts on car audio either...most of my knowledge comes from the previous installers that I see done on my cars or my house audio... if you like Pyramids, so be it. I like my rockfords, and I've seen so many people bad-mouthing it...who cares? I like it...enuff said..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Anyway, my primary reason for coming back was cause I have this DSP unit that I bought a few years back with my hu. The unit was on my previous car and after selling it off, I haven't had a car and the system has set idle in a box for about 2 years now...till now and I'm itching to install it. Only this time, I wanna do it by myself... My system is as follows:

(*note: these equipment was bought around 1997 and I'm not even sure if they work now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif )

hu: Sony XR-U700

DSP: Sony XDP-U50D

CD changer : Sony CDX-U404 (10-disc changer)

2 X Rockford RF40.2

1 X Rockford RF 60.2

Speakers:

(with PCH-142x tweeter protection passive xover)

Rockford PWR-54 (custom xover)

Rockford PCH-44

1/2" tweeter (part of this component set that I bought but no model number..very tiny)

(with PCH 142x)

Rockford RFR-1406 (mid-bass)

Rockford RFR-14

Subs:

2 X RFP-1810 (8ohm 200RMS)

1.509Cu.Ft sealed

Brax 1F cap

(+)cables: 4AWG from batt to block, 8AWG for amps (same for GND)

whitewolf interconnects

PG Zeropoint (subs)

PG quicksilver speaker cables (mids, xover)/Phass (tweeter)

I've just completed making my first sealed box for the subs, and I have to admit, even with faults, I'm very satisfied with how it sounds so far... hey, a lot of people out there throw money at installers...****, i could do that, but what's the fun? Get your jigs out and start cutting them birchply (or MDF if on a budget)...

I know my 60.2 when bridged still won't be able to produce enough power to push both subs, but I don't intend to enter any competition at the present moment.. besides, with a paltry US$1000, you might get yourself a mid-level hu and a couple 6x9's here. Or maybe one RF G1500A2 amp. Taxes for audio equipments here are steep, but I love my music... soldiers and berets don't get much so I get by with what little I have...

Now, my questions:

1. As the amps altogether don't produce anywhere NEAR 1Kw, you think it'll be wiser to link the 40.2 to the cap as well? The car's alt will be changed to a 160amp (doubt I need that much, but with such dramatic climate changes in Seoul, you never know...) and with a single yellow optima powering the starter AND the system.

2. The DSP's power looks a wee-bit funny...

It has its own 7.5a fuse (which I assume is the required +12V)

+12V

AMP REM out (max 0.3a)

GND

I plan to link the three sub AMP REM's via a relay, and just for the heck of it, I thought maybe I'd put in a little neon Anyway, I figure all that would come up to only about 1a...

At first, I thought of linking one of the REM out to the DSP +12V, but since it probably needs more amphere, I'm lost...

I COULD link the +12V directly from the distributor block, but I want the DSP to switch off when my hu is off...

3. If I run my GND wires to the negative terminal of the battery, I am not confident that I can hide all those wires... I've stripped out my car for sound deadening purposes for this future install and there's not much wires I can stuff here and there... the roof's even worse, it just hasn't got enough space... would another GND in the boot raise the possibility of noise? Even if I scrape off all the paint and crap like that?

4. What do you think's better? Power wires running in the centre or the sides?

Ok, I know this is a very long post, but I would really appreciate your opinions on this...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

btw, is it possible to drive a single Orion HCCA amp to 1/2 ohm? Apparently, I saw this guy in the install shop..he had two 15" and quite a number of speakers, but the only amp I could see was a small HCCA amp about the size of a small notebook,(NOT the long one with a fan in the center) and swears that it's the only amp in the whole system... is this possible? He must've had about at LEAST 12 speakers inc the subs...

 

[Steven 10+ year member]

OK here we go...

1. If you add a 160 amp alt you shouldn't have to worry about a cap. Caps are band-aids for an already weak charging system. I wouldn't power your subs off an amp that puts out that low of power, it probably will end up sounding very distorted and wouldn't be very loud

2. Use a relay on the decks remote wire to control the power to the DSP

3. AS long as your grounds are clean and tight noise shouldn't be a problem

4. I would ru the power wires down the same side of the vehicle that the battery is on. This will keep your power wires as short as possible which is what you need. Just also remember to run your signal wires on the other side of the vehicle. I know chris229 will disagree, but this is a common source of noise in a system. He claims it can't cause noise, but I've seen too many noise problems fixed by moving the signal wires to the opposite side. Just to be on the safe side, keep em separate, why take the chane of having to remove your wires and run them again?

Hope all this helps.

I don't necessarily like pyramids, I know that they are cheap speakers, thats all I could afford at the time and they sound good enough. Heck, they actually beat many of the "better" speakers that I've heard in otehr peoples vehicles, but Install is 90% of the sound quality so thats where I went right.

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

wow, quick reply~

Thanks again...now, THIS recent post has helped me a lot... appreciate it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Well, I know according to the numbers, the sub amp seem to be very much underpowered... but these are the exact equipments I've had on two other cars and the subs were really very good... some installers were suprised that such an amp pushed those subs well, without clipping or distortion...

according to rockford numbers,

RF 60.2@ 14.4Volts:

Mono (4ohm) : 270 watts

Per channel (2ohm) : 135 watts

Per channel (4ohm) : 80 watts

RF 60.2@13.8 Volts"

RMS / channel (4ohm) : 30 watts

RMS / channel (2ohm) : 60 watts

RMS mono (4ohm) : 120

For the RFP-1810 subs:

(8ohm)

RMS : 200 Watts

Peak : 400 Watts

According to these numbers, you figure there's no WAY the amps can push 'em? I guess in my previous install, the gains were set to their optimum or something, i dunno... but all i know is, it wasn't very loud compared to some big amp installs, but the sound was crisp and thumped enough. Oh, and they were not in an enclosure at that time..does that matter too?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif