Some Idiot At Audio Express

[NYR36 10+ year member]

That amp he tried to sell you for $800 is probably like $400 online FYI.

Buying at a store FTL.

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

Well you could match it to the peak output....its what i do and than some

Thats a pretty big diff from peak to rms.....if the peak is 800 than id go with around 500 and itd be good to go....but thats if the ratings are right,not a guess by an employee

 

[brchd]

I went into a shop up in Sanford (just north of Orlando) and asked the guy behind the counter if he had any blue 8 awg for my my front stage amp, and he goes in the back and comes out with a piece of used 0 gauge and tried to sell it to me. I told him that i needed 8 gauge and he said "thats the big wire like this right?" i just walked out. First and last time I will ever go in there.

 

[Auddasea 10+ year member]

Oh man lol...

but if I get a 500watt RMS AMP than thats like 350 over the RMS of the sub?

Im confused lol

 

[SkatinBassPLaya]

you must be the some idiot, dude its logical elimination of possibilities

 

[goodstuff 10+ year member]

Well since you brought up max wattage when you were talking with him he must have thought you were a total noobix and would bite on whatevre he threw at you...

 

[Auddasea 10+ year member]

Not total just mostly...

And I thought that going over the RMS of the sub WITH the AMP....would cause disstortion, cone rips and so on...

anyone want to break it down?

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

Not total just mostly...
And I thought that going over the RMS of the sub WITH the AMP....would cause disstortion, cone rips and so on...

anyone want to break it down?

Well i cant speak on that particular sub but theres a few here including me that had a Type R which is 750rms and had around and over 2000watts running to it....now i had mine like that daily and it wasnt distorted or anything that was audible to show it hurting the sub.

Now you run 2000watts to a 150watt rms sub i dont see it lasted much longer than the first song.

But what sub is it actually....specific model?

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

Okay, ohms are a resitance level right?Basicaly how much the AMP recognizes as resistance..

When you bridge an amp you connect one of the positive and negative terminals with speaker cable and than run the speakers in parallel correct?

"Bridging" an amp is the act of combining two lower power channels which otherwise run in stereo into a single, more powerful monaural output. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Positive speaker terminal, to positive speaker terminal, to positive amp terminal...and same with negative right?!

^^^What you've described there is wiring two separate drivers in parallel with one another.

Cant run two subs on 4ohm mono can you?

If the combination of X amount of speakers, when wired together, maintains a nominal final impedence of 4 Ohms AND the power output of the amp in question @ that resistance is adequate for the speakers you've attached to it then, in theory, the number of speakers you can attach to that single output is unlimited.

That amp he tried to sell you for $800 is probably like $400 online FYI.
Buying at a store FTL.

Not always. I am a stickler for buying my headunits BNIB from an authorized reseller because I want a valid, manufacturer-backed warranty. I once had a Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X569. The warranty on eXcelon HUs when sourced from an authorized retailer is two years. 22 months after buying it the CD player went on the fritz. All I had to do was call up Crutchfield, get an RA#, and send it in for warranty repair (shipping both ways on their dime FTW!)

Had I purchased that deck elsewhere I would have had two choices - pay for the repair myself or have a really nice AM/FM stereo. There are demonstrable advantages to buying authorized retail //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Well you could match it to the peak output....its what i do and than some

If you really mean this then I am amazed that you do not burn equipment as a matter of regular course.

Thats a pretty big diff from peak to rms.....if the peak is 800 than id go with around 500 and itd be good to go....but thats if the ratings are right,not a guess by an employee

The subs the OP is talking about won't be good for more than 200w of clean power RMS. Going by your theory should he have went ahead and bought an amp capable of 1,600w and ran them off of that?

That's simply moronic...

 

[synikalt 10+ year member]

Not nessecessarly...this is when your gian levels come into play.

its a good idea to get an amp that does more that the sub can handle so you wont push amp to its limits, and keep the amp putting out power at a safe undistorted stage. if you get an amp that does 500 rms @ 1 or 2 ohms, you just have to set the gian level on it correctly to keep a safe amount of power going into your subs without distortion.

cause believe it or not, if u underpower your subs, people have the tendecy to "clip" their amp and it sends bad signals to your sub which will blow it.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

The gain on an amp doesn't have any effect on the amp's actual output.

What it controls is at what volume setting on the source the amp outputs whatever wattage it is designed to output.

If you get an amp rated for 1,500w @ 1 Ohm (say my D61500.1 for example) you aren't going to limit the output to 500w @ 1 Ohm unless you keep the volume very low.

All else being equal, regardless of the gain setting, the amp is going to make 1.5kW @ 1 Ohm period.

 

[DBfan187 5,000+ posts]

Not nessecessarly...this is when your gian levels come into play. its a good idea to get an amp that does more that the sub can handle so you wont push amp to its limits, and keep the amp putting out power at a safe undistorted stage. if you get an amp that does 500 rms @ 1 or 2 ohms, you just have to set the gian level on it correctly to keep a safe amount of power going into your subs without distortion.

cause believe it or not, if u underpower your subs, people have the tendecy to "clip" their amp and it sends bad signals to your sub which will blow it.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif Clipping & distortion DO NOT blow speakers.

Too much power is what kills speakers!

Alos, if under-powering speakers kills them, then everytime I turn down the volume my speakers would blow.

 

[Auddasea 10+ year member]

Sub in question is a Pioneer Model..

2x TSW-301R

http://www.cardomain.com/item/PIOTSW301R

DVC

4ohm

150 RMS each....

Basically 'm not understanding..

RMS is basically what your sub can put out continusley..

and max watts is it's peaking ability...

Now if I ran a 500watt amp to it in parallel at 2ohms..

Id be supplying 500 watts of continous power when the rating is 150...per sub...

Dont get it?

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

If you really mean this then I am amazed that you do not burn equipment as a matter of regular course.

Im with you on this one....must be some sorta moronic luck

 

[DBfan187 5,000+ posts]

must be some sorta moronic luck

At least you're an honest moron.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif