So I went to my local shop today.

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

like? teach me

2000 posts here, what have you learned so far about setting up your system?

For starters, what speakers do you have and what are their locations?

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I agree, and me personally, I like to use a scope to set the deck and amp to where they both clip at the same time which is the way it's supposed to be done, simply matching the output of the deck to the input of the amp so as they work in unison but I know a lot of people on most forums set their amps gain control to were the amp puts out x amount of power.

That makes perfect sense. I didn't think about that.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

2000 posts here, what have you learned so far about setting up your system?
For starters, what speakers do you have and what are their locations?

I have a couple build logs.

Front - stock size 4x6 component (60WRMS)Clarion SRP4620 - woofer stock location Tweets in A pillars. Wired at 4ohm at amp.

Rear - stock size 6x9 component (80WRMS)Eclipse SC6900 - woofer stock location Tweets above rear Deck. Wired at 4 ohm at amp.

Subs - 2x Dayton Audio HO 10" DVC 4Ohm wired to 1ohm at amp.

I have 4 7in midbass Dayton audio drivers at some point I will be putting in, need to learn more about fiberglassing. Doing it to my car makes me a little bit nervous, don't wanna make something permanent and have it look bad.

As for a more detailed version of the setup:

HU - Eclipse CD7100 Bass 0 Treb 0 Sub/W 0 additional bassboost/loudness/harmonizer/circle surround all off. Front HPF 100hz 24db slope, Rear HPF 80hz 18db Slope, Sub LPF 63hz 18db slope.

Speaker amp 4chan MA Audio 489i, on Pass filtered from HU, gain set via DMM output voltage to rms specifications, bass boost 0

Sub Amp Mono AT 1200.1 D, on Pass filtered from HU, SS filter set at roughly 20hz, Gain set via DMM to output voltage to rms specifications