Skar audio VVX15 8cft box buildness

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I don't think people where questioning your skills. It was the info the OP was giving that made things so confusing.

^ yes

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

To make it easier just add another skar 15 and that box. Will destroy lows

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

To make it easier just add another skar 15 and that box. Will destroy lows

Yeah tj, thats the eventual plan since I know now 2 15s can fit, ill just low power run a until then. :V

 

[Moble Enclosurs 10+ year member]

I don't think people where questioning your skills. It was the info the OP was giving that made things so confusing.

Oh I know. Its ok. Not feeling threatened at all. Just needed an explanation is all. And I do not believe we did discuss the idea of how much power will be used. As a designer, I will not use more power in a design than what the subs can handle even if you have an amplifier that can provide much more than the thermal limitations. In fact, having an amplifier that can provide more power is seen as a very good thing, because you can limit the potential for distortion by clipping.

SO, all in all, it is just a lesson learned, and a very good one at that. No harm no foul as long as the right amount of voltage is used. The way I see it as a designer is, With the increased efficiency, you will see the similar output as with a smaller design with needing more power, but with the added potential to exceed the output if adding drivers as mentioned. In this design, and most designs that use aeroports, this can be done(adding subs) without worrying much about the acoustical differences that will cause problems in other designs.

Funny thing is, for this exact reason, my EBAY items started as aeroport designs to minimize returns for those who plan to modify power and driver usage.

SO, again, no worries on my part. The design does exactly what it was made to do, but with the added ability to expand if wanted (not needed, just by personal preference).

It was merely a confusion on the obligation of the user, but by no means do I consider him stubborn or anything bad. The only thing that I can say on this is, he was a very great customer and gave me all the wonderful details I needed to finish the idea and was very communicative. I, as a professional, cannot ask for more. So, beyond the design is not something I can or will interfere with other than when it is needed. Yes, it should be assumed that the average user should know not to exceed RMS ratings, but for this I have a disclaimer lol. No seriously, I believe things will be good and if not, then all I can do from this point is to mention the reasons for misuse and advise against it in the future, but I will not judge. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Hope all is kewl now.

 

[-01limited- 10+ year member]

I just dont see how a box can be designed without discussing how much power is going to be used. Its like you guys were on two totally different pages coming up with this.

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

I see a lot of bottoming out in your future... Heck the box for my 18 is only 5.75 cu net.... If you really want that big of a box I would think about adding 2 more spiders to your woofer to keep it from leaving the gap or be really conservative on the power....

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

i wouldnt use more then 500 rms for now on that single sub

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

so let me get this right.... you want to throw 1500 watts to a vvx 15 in a box that is twice as big as it should be... first off that vvx will not take 1500 daily for long, I give it one day before its blown. and second off that big of a box with that low of a box will damage your driver.. the bottom of your vc will constantly be hitting the top plate and you will damage it pretty quickly... sounds like a waste to me. good luck though....

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

so let me get this right.... you want to throw 1500 watts to a vvx 15 in a box that is twice as big as it should be... first off that vvx will not take 1500 daily for long, I give it one day before its blown. and second off that big of a box with that low of a box will damage your driver.. the bottom of your vc will constantly be hitting the top plate and you will damage it pretty quickly... sounds like a waste to me. good luck though....

Ill come meet you for a demo :V And as recently said in pages, ill lower the rms until I get that second vvx.

 

[Moble Enclosurs 10+ year member]

I just dont see how a box can be designed without discussing how much power is going to be used. Its like you guys were on two totally different pages coming up with this.

understood. Which is why I have two spots on my order form to give wattage information. The form I received only said 1000w and nothing else but 1ohm resistance wiring.

So, I was going to use 1000w, but noticed the sub is not capable of 1000rms, so I adjusted it to 600, which I was obligated to do. This was in the section of what the subs will take, not the section where amplifier specifics are needed. So I used the only information provided to me for power on the form and since that was too high, I couldn't use that because the subs do not take 1000, they take 600.

I would not design a box out of the power limits of the sub. That would be inaccurate and therefore make me responsible for any occurring damages. This whole 1600 thing was as new to me as it was to you.

But he did message me and is going to not exceed the voltage level of 600rms, which coinsides with the design as planned.

No confusion on my part.

 

[Moble Enclosurs 10+ year member]

so let me get this right.... you want to throw 1500 watts to a vvx 15 in a box that is twice as big as it should be... first off that vvx will not take 1500 daily for long, I give it one day before its blown. and second off that big of a box with that low of a box will damage your driver.. the bottom of your vc will constantly be hitting the top plate and you will damage it pretty quickly... sounds like a waste to me. good luck though....

its not that the box is too big. In fact, the size of the enclosure is only part of the equation and is dependant on what kind of characteristics you are dealing with. The fact that these subs are low powered compared to the current market drivers of similar size today, tells me that a bigger box is required to maintain efficiency for a consistant output that is comparable to a smaller, higher powered design. In fact, most designs on the market do not use the proper volume and port requirements that will allow them to operate the best in due to the natural consensus of limited space enclosures geared towards the vehicle side of acoustics.

So, if I were to say anything about the size of the enclosure, I would say that they are limited naturally by dimension to make them fit.

Designed properly, a low frequency extended response is made to work best in open ended designs, which is why tlines are so popular and seem to be easier to gain a usable response in. What this does is no different than having a crosssectional area of the chamber equal to that of the port area with the differences of loading occurring.

The same applies to round ports when made large enough. So, to keep the extension and efficiency up on this design mainly due to low power abilities, the design accounts for boundary effects and uses the gain from the chamber to output it through the ports effectively with a certain degree of wanted or "controlled" excursion capabilities, almost like purposely allowing for more of it to maintain output.

So, before you say the enclosure is too big, read up on acoustics and what accompanies low frequency propagation with limited space requirements. Then you will know that if anything, the box is only big enough to allow for what is recommended so low power can be used to its advantage. It may only require a few hundred watts to get it to function within the vehicle with ample output.

And the effect of efficiency is one of the keys in reproduction since the beginning of audio. Hence why it is what it is today.

 

[Moble Enclosurs 10+ year member]

You guys have to understand that we naturally limit our designs to make sure nothing occurs beyond our knowledge and capabilities of controlling. So, it will be a common thing for people to distance from a design that goes against nearly everything that they are used to. But you also have to realize, that as long as you use the subs within their range, that the size of the box is insignificant to control other than having be balanced between the effects of needed power vs wanted power.

Take a 5 ich sub and put it in a box built for a 12, and seal it up properly, and give it only the recommended power it is made to receive and if the box fits the mechanical characteristics of the driver, you may find that on a certain power level, if you close your eyes, you may not know the audible difference between that an the 12, if both operate effectively in the same enclosure. This is the effect of efficiency and what it can be capable of.

The other thing to note is this.....a physical design is a constant in its natural gain from the inner workings of the design, much like a room. So, you may note that putting different sealed boxes in a room will have similar response curves, given other things are similar. Much can be said to the similarities of an empty enclosure by adding drivers of similar character. So, box volume and physics have more to do with output than one might imagine, but the larger the box, hence allowing more a more coupled low frequency response in terms of being acoustically small or large compared to the response passband, the more capable it will be in reproducing the range of sub frequencies from natural gain.....to a point. And that "point" will not be reached in car audio. So, physical limitations will always exist in this field of acoustics.......so much that the actual recommendations of a true low frequency reproducible design will seem wrong.

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

Ill come meet you for a demo :V And as recently said in pages, ill lower the rms until I get that second vvx.

shakopee may 27th... canterbury park. Ill be competing there... I would like to see this.

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

Back on track

So after talking with Jason, I figured I would run my 15 @1ohms with the gain turned far enough down to match 500-600rms

If I properly sealed the trunk from the cabin what db range do you guys think an "average" system would get on daily? I know people try for the numberzz with tones at certain hz ranges, which tones do you use to actually find which works best in your car? I downloaded a torrent of a bunch of old school car audio cds, like Bassmechanic and others a while ago, should I just play the "30hertz tones" "50 hertz tones" etc etc until I find what? the tone that moves my car most?

*Bad explanation is bad*

 

[The_Grimy_One 10+ year member]

Back on track
So after talking with Jason, I figured I would run my 15 @1ohms with the gain turned far enough down to match 500-600rms

If I properly sealed the trunk from the cabin what db range do you guys think an "average" system would get on daily? I know people try for the numberzz with tones at certain hz ranges, which tones do you use to actually find which works best in your car? I downloaded a torrent of a bunch of old school car audio cds, like Bassmechanic and others a while ago, should I just play the "30hertz tones" "50 hertz tones" etc etc until I find what? the tone that moves my car most?

*Bad explanation is bad*

I am assuming the sub is D2 correct? I would run the amp at 4 ohms if so. And just set gains accordingly. Wont push the sub too hard as long as you dont clip, and will send a much more efficient signal.