Single L7 12 Blown twice with a ZX750.1 - Replace w/ 2 L7 10s or 1 Solo X 12?

[chrisls1bird]

Guys,

I've had some bad luck running a Kicker L7 12 (dual four ohm in parallel) with a Kicker ZX750.1 amp (2 ohm stable). The sub has been in Kicker's pre-loaded box.

I have a 30 minute commute. My first L7 12 lasted a couple of weeks. Every time I would use it, it would start stinking after about 20 minutes of play. On one trip, it just seized up (fried voice coils). Gain on the amp was set only half way up, all audio setting on the head unit were flat, and the bass boost on the amp was halfway up. Yeah, I probably had the signal clipping. My bad.

I got a warranty replacement for the sub. The new one lasted 3 days. Same stench would develop after 15-20 minutes of use. Finally, one of the voice coils fried. I had the gain on the amp only 1/3 up, and only about 3 db of bass boost.

Obviously, I have some issues with the way I've set the gain. I plan to set it by the book next time using a multimeter. But I also don't want to screw with a single L7 anymore. This amp has a birth sheet showing 897 watts, which obviously exceeds the rated RMS power rating for the sub (750). I know some have gotten away with feeding more than 750 RMS to an L7 12, but I don't want to try to get away with that. With the length of my commute and the oversupply of power, I just don't want to risk blowing more subs.

All of that said, I'm looking at two sub replacement options (factoring in the limited space in my BMW 335i's trunk): (1) two L7 10s or (2) a single solo x 12.

I like seat shaking, mirror wobbling bass. I know a single 10 won't hit the lows as hard as a single 12, but what about 2 10s v. one bad *** 12 (in a big box) at the same power level (~ 900 watts)?

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[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

If you are going to shop to get things done.

I suggest heading south to Victoria and go to TNT. Great shop and has been in the top 100 shops in the us for several years now. They go great work and have great customer service there.

If you are doing everything yourself, then I suggest doing more research on enclosure parameters and how to properly set your amp/head unit. Damaging product is almost always some sort of abuse in some way or another.

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

You won't wake up a Solo X on a 750.1. It will never reach it's full potential and you will never be satisfied with that. If you have future plans on getting a KX1200.1 or a ZX1500.1, grab the X, as it will outperform the 2 L7s once you get some power. If you don't plan on upgrading amps with this system, stick with smaller drivers like the L7s or maybe some efficient speakers like Sundown SAs or Alpine Type Rs

FYI, I had a KX1200.1 at 1ohm on 2 L7 10s for two years and never blew them up. You are sending that L7 a distorted signal somewhere, as

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

Guys,
I've had some bad luck running a Kicker L7 12 (dual four ohm in parallel) with a Kicker ZX750.1 amp (2 ohm stable). The sub has been in Kicker's pre-loaded box.

I have a 30 minute commute. My first L7 12 lasted a couple of weeks. Every time I would use it, it would start stinking after about 20 minutes of play. On one trip, it just seized up (fried voice coils). Gain on the amp was set only half way up, all audio setting on the head unit were flat, and the bass boost on the amp was halfway up. Yeah, I probably had the signal clipping. My bad.

I got a warranty replacement for the sub. The new one lasted 3 days. Same stench would develop after 15-20 minutes of use. Finally, one of the voice coils fried. I had the gain on the amp only 1/3 up, and only about 3 db of bass boost.

Obviously, I have some issues with the way I've set the gain. I plan to set it by the book next time using a multimeter. But I also don't want to screw with a single L7 anymore. This amp has a birth sheet showing 897 watts, which obviously exceeds the rated RMS power rating for the sub (750). I know some have gotten away with feeding more than 750 RMS to an L7 12, but I don't want to try to get away with that. With the length of my commute and the oversupply of power, I just don't want to risk blowing more subs.

All of that said, I'm looking at two sub replacement options (factoring in the limited space in my BMW 335i's trunk): (1) two L7 10s or (2) a single solo x 12.

I like seat shaking, mirror wobbling bass. I know a single 10 won't hit the lows as hard as a single 12, but what about 2 10s v. one bad *** 12 (in a big box) at the same power level (~ 900 watts)?

Don't use bass boost. Sounds like you clipped the hell out of your sub cause theres no way you would have damaged it that quick. And sub size doesn't determine how low it will play.

In a proper box the two 10s would probably get louder due to more cone area. You would be wasting your money buying a Solo X 12 unless you plan to power it properly. If powered right, it would definitely get loud though and do some work.

 

[Robert 2001 10+ year member]

The 1 12 should get pretty loud. As for burning them up the bass boost and gains where probably set where the amp is clipping and burned them up. Thats the expensive way to learn. Check the post on how to set hains with a dmm

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

A 12 isn't going to be any louder or lower than a 10. That will be determined by the box they're installed in. And if you get a properly designed and built ported box, you're going to see a whole 'nother world of output. As for the subwoofer selection, I would consider both mediocre and a waste of money. though the only thing wrong with the L7 was you, and your settings. Bass boost should always be set to 0, and gain should always be set with a DMM.

Assuming you're trying to get the best driver you can for your application, while spending as little as possible, I'll recommend a few that will be sure to surpass those Kickers.

If you are looking for a sick 12, Obsidian Car Audio

Sundown SA 10: SSA Store - Sundown Audio SA-10 Subwoofer

AA Chaos: Chaos 10 D1

Another beast 12: LI-12 D4

SKAR VVX-10, great for a low tuned set-up: SSA Store - SKAR Audio VVX Sub woofer

Fi SSD: https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154e0baada639b0/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript

Any of the aforementioned 10" subs are also available in 12", if I listed them as a 12", that was the smallest size available. Any of them will perform great on 1000w, or whatever you have to offer them out of that amp, IF it is set properly. Also, to get the most out of them, loudest and deepest sound, you'll need a custom designed and built enclosure; that silly Kicker enclosure is only robbing sound and output. Example, I have a single Sundown SA-10 that I'm powering on 1200w, in a 1.25^ft enclosure tuned to ~33hz, and it pounds. it shakes. and it's louder than any pair of kickers you've heard.

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

And that prefab ported box along with a clipped signal is instant death

 

[orphe 10+ year member]

Turn your gains down!!

 

[chrisls1bird]

Thanks guys.

So, an SA 12 or FI 12 should handle 900 RMS no problem? SA gives a 600 RMS rating, but that's totally off? Honestly, I don't want to keep blowing subs, and I worry about going beyond the rating of any sub (seriously, gain was low on the ZX750 when I burned this latest L7).

What about a break in period? I'm not good with that. Thought that was what I was doing with the second L7.

Hard to believe the Kickers are mediocre (especially the Solo-X, obtained at an Ebay price) or that Kicker's pre-fab box for the L7 wasn't designed optimally. But, since I've burned two L7s, I'm not inclined to defend Kicker.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Thanks guys.
So, an SA 12 or FI 12 should handle 900 RMS no problem? SA gives a 600 RMS rating, but that's totally off? Honestly, I don't want to keep blowing subs, and I worry about going beyond the rating of any sub (seriously, gain was low on the ZX750 when I burned this latest L7).

What about a break in period? I'm not good with that. Thought that was what I was doing with the second L7.

Hard to believe the Kickers are mediocre (especially the Solo-X, obtained at an Ebay price) or that Kicker's pre-fab box for the L7 wasn't designed optimally. But, since I've burned two L7s, I'm not inclined to defend Kicker.

Those boxes are horrible. they are made to get loud to please the noobs. that sub will handle that amp if you set the gain right.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

changing product will not help/fix the issue. It will only mean you will break/damage a different sub.

The amp and head unit need to be set correctly to ensure proper tuning.

Changing the enclosure will help with output, but not "saving the sub".

You are damaging product because of user error.

Break in period has nothing to do with this issues.

Please use the search feature and look through a few stickies and read/learn more then you do now. It will help more then anything.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Thanks guys.
So, an SA 12 or FI 12 should handle 900 RMS no problem? SA gives a 600 RMS rating, but that's totally off? Honestly, I don't want to keep blowing subs, and I worry about going beyond the rating of any sub (seriously, gain was low on the ZX750 when I burned this latest L7).

What about a break in period? I'm not good with that. Thought that was what I was doing with the second L7.

Hard to believe the Kickers are mediocre (especially the Solo-X, obtained at an Ebay price) or that Kicker's pre-fab box for the L7 wasn't designed optimally. But, since I've burned two L7s, I'm not inclined to defend Kicker.

Absolutely. As I mentioned, I'm giving my SA 1200w, and it doesn't get warm, at all. the 600w rating is a joke, they're most commonly known to run fine on 1kW. The Fi SSD is also rated conservatively at 1000w. There's no break-in period with either sub to worry about. Again, like I said before, your problem on the previous subs was you, and your settings. The gains need to be set a with a DMM or an o-scope, no exceptions. And Bass boost should be set to 0 or off. The Kickers really are mediocre, unless I got them for free to sell them. Solo-X is a solid SPL sub actually. And yes, the prefab box is god awful, tiny, and tuned high to make loud noise.

changing product will not help/fix the issue. It will only mean you will break/damage a different sub.
The amp and head unit need to be set correctly to ensure proper tuning.

Changing the enclosure will help with output, but not "saving the sub".

You are damaging product because of user error.

Break in period has nothing to do with this issues.

Please use the search feature and look through a few stickies and read/learn more then you do now. It will help more then anything.

That's what I was saying man, hopefully he got the point. I figured if he's gonna get a new sub though, might as well get something worth the money. Though it still won't last until he installs and sets everything properly.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

if you notice/look at your sub install/owner manual, you would have noticed that power handling is greatly effected by tuning, both with the enclosure, and amp. the 750rms is with one of their "optimal" enclosures, and with a 25hz subsonic filter. another thing- when you smell coil- turn it down.

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Thanks guys.
So, an SA 12 or FI 12 should handle 900 RMS no problem? SA gives a 600 RMS rating, but that's totally off? Honestly, I don't want to keep blowing subs, and I worry about going beyond the rating of any sub (seriously, gain was low on the ZX750 when I burned this latest L7).

What about a break in period? I'm not good with that. Thought that was what I was doing with the second L7.

Hard to believe the Kickers are mediocre (especially the Solo-X, obtained at an Ebay price) or that Kicker's pre-fab box for the L7 wasn't designed optimally. But, since I've burned two L7s, I'm not inclined to defend Kicker.

lol especially since you screwed them up right???

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

also put a thought on that amp maybe its ur amp as well besides your gains and bass boost realy high