Share Your Experience With Dedicated Midbass Drivers!

[TheMayer 10+ year member]

Ok, im on the hunt for the perfect 6.5" driver for my setup. Ive been searching endless forums and cant make up my mind on what would suit my setup best.

My setup consists of CDT ES-02 tweeter/midranges playing from 250Hz up mounted on axis on the dash. A set of Rainbow SLX165 midbass drivers in the doors playing 50-250Hz. Originally these woofers were part of the Rainbow SLX265 Deluxe component set and were crossed over at 4250Hz. In the back Ive got a 12W6v2 filling in up to 80Hz.

Ive got everything ran active through my Bit Ten so I can change all crossover points/slopes if it will help (ive been reading that 63Hz is a better point for the midbass?).

Basically im open to any opinions and want some help deciding what i should do next in the midbass department!

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

First, raise your crossover on the ES-02s. They will sound better with less low frequencies sent to them. I would try bringing them up to 1 kHz and bring the midbass crossover up the same amount. Experiment to find what works. If you already tried a higher crossover let me know what you tried.

Second, have you tried those drivers mounted closer to the midbass?

Third, I recommend CDT HD-M6 or ES-06 if you want a higher excursion midbass that will match well with ES-02.

 

[TheMayer 10+ year member]

ive tried them at 250, 400, 500, 1000, and 4250 haha. I can honestly say i think they sound amazing crossed at 250, i have them set at -10db on my bit ten and the midbass at 0db. they handle the wide range so well in my opinion. its insane having the entire vocal range coming from the dash. Ive been looking at the M6's and think i might go with them. im only giving each driver 50RMS and they do great but im sure they would benefit from a little more power

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I run about the same in my doors, though I think mine go down to 42hz up to 250. Mids in the kick pick up from there with a little overlap. I've run the Mpyre mids for a while, but those got pretty beat up so I'm running some Peerless now which are pretty solid. Just got in my Exodus Anarchy's which I intend to install this summer.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

If you're set on sticking with the 6.5" drivers, I would recommend trying to get hold of some Seas G18RNX fiberglass mids. They were discontinued several years ago, but still pop up every now and again (you'll have better luck asking around on DIYMA). I've been running them for about 3 years now, and they are great drivers. Really nice range with perfectly respectable low-range performance, and they are pretty forgiving imaging-wise (my mids and Rainbow CAL25ALK tweeters are in the stock locations in my Mazda3). Really nice sound (I listen to a lot of rock music and the kick drums sound great). Just to illustrate the point, my sub amp recently fried on me, and while I definitely miss the low lows, the G18s fill in enough that I can still enjoy some hip hop. If you can't find these particular mids, Seas makes a lot of good products (I recommend checking out Madisound.com for similar drivers from Seas and other companies).

That said, if you really want true full range, I would go with a 8,4,1 3-way setup. The 8s are going to fill in the lows even more, and your drivers will be more optimized for their respective frequency ranges. Granted, it's a lot more effort to build panels for and properly image a 3-way set, but that's life. You can go whole-hog and put in some extra time, or you can go for ease of install with a slightly compromised sound. I chose the latter because I wanted everything in my car to appear stock, and with the G18s, I don't think I'm missing out on a ton.

 

[TheMayer 10+ year member]

If you're set on sticking with the 6.5" drivers, I would recommend trying to get hold of some Seas G18RNX fiberglass mids. They were discontinued several years ago, but still pop up every now and again (you'll have better luck asking around on DIYMA). I've been running them for about 3 years now, and they are great drivers. Really nice range with perfectly respectable low-range performance, and they are pretty forgiving imaging-wise (my mids and Rainbow CAL25ALK tweeters are in the stock locations in my Mazda3). Really nice sound (I listen to a lot of rock music and the kick drums sound great). Just to illustrate the point, my sub amp recently fried on me, and while I definitely miss the low lows, the G18s fill in enough that I can still enjoy some hip hop. If you can't find these particular mids, Seas makes a lot of good products (I recommend checking out Madisound.com for similar drivers from Seas and other companies).
That said, if you really want true full range, I would go with a 8,4,1 3-way setup. The 8s are going to fill in the lows even more, and your drivers will be more optimized for their respective frequency ranges. Granted, it's a lot more effort to build panels for and properly image a 3-way set, but that's life. You can go whole-hog and put in some extra time, or you can go for ease of install with a slightly compromised sound. I chose the latter because I wanted everything in my car to appear stock, and with the G18s, I don't think I'm missing out on a ton.

Those look pretty sweet, ill have to keep my eye out for a pair. Im also going for the stock look, mainly because i dont really have any other option without fiberglass.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Does your Cherokee have 6x9 openings in the doors?

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

Those look pretty sweet, ill have to keep my eye out for a pair. Im also going for the stock look, mainly because i dont really have any other option without fiberglass.

Hm. Are your doors deadened? How many Watts are you giving them.

 

[Jroo 10+ year member]

Before you change anything I would give what you have more power. 50 watts on midbass may be some of the issue. You also didnt mention how or if you treated your doors. Do you have deadner and tried to seal off any gaps?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Before you change anything I would give what you have more power. 50 watts on midbass may be some of the issue. You also didnt mention how or if you treated your doors. Do you have deadner and tried to seal off any gaps?

Mid bass must have power. Mid bass MUST have very treated install

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

I whole heartedly disagree. My midst are only getting about 40w and I need to equalize them down. Unless those mids are inefficient, 50w should be plenty.

Before you change anything I would give what you have more power. 50 watts on midbass may be some of the issue. You also didnt mention how or if you treated your doors. Do you have deadner and tried to seal off any gaps?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I whole heartedly disagree. My midst are only getting about 40w and I need to equalize them down. Unless those mids are inefficient, 50w should be plenty.

Mids or mid bass? mid bass require power and excursion.

 

[Jroo 10+ year member]

I whole heartedly disagree. My midst are only getting about 40w and I need to equalize them down. Unless those mids are inefficient, 50w should be plenty.

if 40 watts is working in your install thats great. Generally the biggest issue people have with weak mid bass performance is lack of power. I know power is a realitive term, but I have been in several cars that were getting well over 150 watts a channel to midbass alone. Last summer I sat in a Demo Impala with Focal Be sets and I think they were feeding them something 250 a side. The midbass in the car literally attacked you on jazz and classical music. It also didnt hurt that guys spent thousands of dollars on car and door deadning and treatment. I am moving to try and use the Anarchy sets and I question if my JL 300/2 is enough at 150 a channel.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Mids or mid bass? mid bass require power and excursion.

My drivers are handling both jobs, and they do very well. Granted, each driver is going to be different. The Seas drivers are 8 ohm drivers, so are more efficient by nature. To unilaterally state that ALL midbass drivers MUST have tons of power is just false. You simply need to find a set of drivers with the characteristics you want and power them accordingly.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

My drivers are handling both jobs, and they do very well. Granted, each driver is going to be different. The Seas drivers are 8 ohm drivers, so are more efficient by nature. To unilaterally state that ALL midbass drivers MUST have tons of power is just false. You simply need to find a set of drivers with the characteristics you want and power them accordingly.

Do you have any experience with purpose built mid bass drivers? I'm talking 150-250 watts, power but not a ton of power.