sealing trunk from cabin

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

Ok guys.

I want to hear methods that you have used to seal off the trunk from the cabin.

I have flip down seats that allow access into the trunk from the cabin.

This is going to be mostly consumed by my new box that will be firing port and subs into the cabin side.

I need to seal the rest.

Problem.

the rear deck

It has trunk lids hindges that come up into the cabin side about 2 inches max. I can build a cup and seal that I suppose.

But the other problem.

The middle seatbelt. the reel falls into the trunk space about 3 x 3 = 2 inches down and 3 inches square.

so. how should I do this.

I will post pics or you can look at my build log.

Click to read more...

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

 

[basscort2009 5,000+ posts]

lots of expanding foam.

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

not for the rear deck. I already did the panels. I have to cover the rear deck holes.

I was think glass or deadener or making a panel and sealing it?

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

If you are firing your subs and port forward into the car could you just build a baffle board and screw you box to that.

I cut a board to fit into the opening behind the rear seat then cut a hole in that board for the subwoofer to fire through.

You probley want to use some spray foam to seal up the areas in the bottom corners, I just put some sound deadener there as I am just 1-10" at 200 watts

But you can see in the second picture that the sub box has been screwed to the baffle board.

Like this...

my bass can only go into the cabin.

Now if yo are worried about the bass going up and back through the rear deck into the trunk then you are going to have to use 2 more boards.

1 from the back of the baffle above the sub box then 1 from that board up to the rear deach but you will still have the trunk lid support bars to deal with.

Seems like a lot of work.

Is this for competition?

 

[I Like Waffle]

Make a 1/2" mdf panel for the big holes, then deadener over the gaps. I put self tapping screws or aluminum backed butly (REAL duct tape) over the tiny holes.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

instead of MDF, you can use aluminum sheet metal with deadener on both sides. then screw that over the openings. then deaden the entire thing completely. areas of weakness include the speaker openings, third brake light, and seat belts. the torsion bars are a PITA. there are usually openings on the outer sides of the rear deck - for factory wire pathway.

i will be remaking my rear deck in the future to create a more rigid panel that doesn't have the extra stuff in it. i'll also eliminate the middle seat belt (not really necessary for me to cart 4 other people around).