Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12?

[Montana]

Hey guys, my name is Tyler. Recently I have had a hobby of my car audio, I am without a doubt new to the scene. However, I am very interested. So, right now I push two 12s in a sealed. I have Pioneer TS-W3002D4 with a Pioneer Gm-5500T amp (bridged) and then a Kenwood P-W1210 ( //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif ) with a KAC-8105D (//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif) bridged also. I am about to upgrade basically everything, I believe I am getting two Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 (don't know about the amp yet)

So, my question is.

Are Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12s good way to go? Also, what amp will power them swell? And one more thing, what do I need to know when looking at capaciters?

Thanks!

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[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

Hey guys, my name is Tyler. Recently I have had a hobby of my car audio, I am without a doubt new to the scene. However, I am very interested. So, right now I push two 12s in a sealed. I have Pioneer TS-W3002D4 with a Pioneer Gm-5500T amp (bridged) and then a Kenwood P-W1210 ( //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif ) with a KAC-8105D (//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif) bridged also. I am about to upgrade basically everything, I believe I am getting two Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 (don't know about the amp yet)
So, my question is.

Are Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12s good way to go? Also, what amp will power them swell? And one more thing, what do I need to know when looking at capaciters?

Thanks!

You must be new here...

Don't buy those Rockford pieces of shit. They're a rip off; price-to-performance they're a decent subwoofer, at best.

I would suggest looking at Obsidian Audio or perhaps Sound Solutions Audio for quality subs around your price range. I would also recommend you take a look at AudioQue or Crescendo Audio for some nice amps to match your subs.

 

[Montana]

I am shopping online, so they are only gonna run me about $120 each (then like $20 shipping per) , Fosgates aren't too hot?

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

I am shopping online, so they are only gonna run me about $120 each (then like $20 shipping per) , Fosgates aren't too hot?

Forsgate woofers aren't great, I actually owned a pair of them not but a few years ago, definitely not as good as others. Their amps are great and do rated, although they're very expensive.

It sounds like you're on a budget, give us(me) and idea of how much money you want to spend, all the equipment you want to buy, and what kind of car you've got. and we'll go from there.

 

[Montana]

Alright, I've got a little toying room with budget, I am most likely in the range of $100-$200 per sub, amp also falls within that price range. I'll be needing a better amp, and subs, also a head unit (I don't even know what's in there, some pioneer.. I'll have to look at it, open to recommendations for that as well)

And I drive a 2005 Lincoln LS

 

[Montana]

Another thing, how would several 10s compare to two 12s? Let's say I ran Four 10s ( I believe I can fit them we'll say I can for this) how does that compare? Sorry if I ask dumb questions, just trying to expand my knowledge Would it still give that boomy hit? Or because they are lower, would they give a more crisp clean hit? ( I know I am going far from my orginal subject)

 

[rebelfromva 10+ year member]

What's your budget? Current system and electrical like? How much room do you have for a box?

 

[Montana]

As I previously said it's a solid $100 - $200 per sub is what I am looking for ( that's not set in stone I am not trying to spend $5,000 on a car audio system though), I don't have a solid price range seeing as I just kind of buy a piece of my system per check, so I just keep adding too it. I am not sure what "electrical like" means, and I have a sealed dual 12 inch in there right now. A quick Google search told me I have 13.5 cubic feet in my trunk to play with, however, no heights and or further specs are givin' , but with the 13.5 cubic feet being said, I can build a custom box if need be, I without a doubt have the handy work skills and tools to do so. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

Alright, I've got a little toying room with budget, I am most likely in the range of $100-$200 per sub, amp also falls within that price range. I'll be needing a better amp, and subs, also a head unit (I don't even know what's in there, some pioneer.. I'll have to look at it, open to recommendations for that as well)
And I drive a 2005 Lincoln LS

If I were you, I'd do one larger woofer, like a 15". It'll buy you a nicer woofer and it'll still get plenty loud.

Plus, for $200 a woofer, you could easily have power handling close to 2000w, and then you need electrical upgrades and that's just as expensive as the woofer and amp. Best to start small and work up.

I'd run a GCON 15"/SA-15/DC Lvl.3

all those subs should handle 600w-1000w. With the money you save by going with one woofer, you can buy a nicer amp. something like an AQ1200D/SAZ-1000D/B2 Quota.

all of those are quality amps. I'd personally go with the quota, very underrated.

 

[Montana]

How does a single 15 compare to a dual 12 however? Will you still get the clean hits? Or is it just strictly the low LOUD window shaking?

And what do you mean electrical upgrades? As in a extra battery? What else needs to be done electrically? Beside of course higher gage wiring? (wire is no issue, I get it for free )

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

As I previously said it's a solid $100 - $200 per sub is what I am looking for ( that's not set in stone I am not trying to spend $5,000 on a car audio system though), I don't have a solid price range seeing as I just kind of buy a piece of my system per check, so I just keep adding too it. I am not sure what "electrical like" means, and I have a sealed dual 12 inch in there right now. A quick Google search told me I have 13.5 cubic feet in my trunk to play with, however, no heights and or further specs are givin' , but with the 13.5 cubic feet being said, I can build a custom box if need be, I without a doubt have the handy work skills and tools to do so. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

Like I said, unless you want to start making electical upgrades to handle the bigger amps, you're going to want to stick below ~1500w. after that I'd start looking into extra batteries and further down the line a higher output alternator.

 

[rebelfromva 10+ year member]

What vehicle? With the budget of 400 for subs you can get some nice subs used on here. By electrical I mean batteries and wire for your system. I would suggest 0g for 1000+ watt system. In your case I would pick and amp 1000-1500rms and either a single or two sub setup to match amp.

 

[T.I.K. 10+ year member]

How does a single 15 compare to a dual 12 however? Will you still get the clean hits? Or is it just strictly the low LOUD window shaking?

The performance of the subwoofer depends mostly on the enclosure, believe it or not. A quality box, built to spec is far more important than the equipment itself, which is something that almost anybody on here will tell you. The myth of larger woofers not sounding as good as other, smaller woofers is false. The moving mass of a 12" and a 15" woofer is at most about 50 grams, which in the grand scheme of things isn't that big of a deal...

 

[Montana]

Oh, a better altinator is what you mean electrically, got'cha. So a higher end 15 will kick well for me? Making the rearview move? ;-)

 

[rebelfromva 10+ year member]

Oh, a better altinator is what you mean electrically, got'cha. So a higher end 15 will kick well for me? Making the rearview move? ;-)

My single 12 has it so I can't keep my rear view anywhere but facing down!