Retained Accessory Power: Where to remote power amp???

[Captain McFunk]

Hey guys, new to the forums. I've got an Alpine M500 and 12" Type R that i've had for several years, a good starter sub/amp combo that is plenty for me, and still going strong. I've installed it myself in all of my past vehicles with no issues whatsoever. I just got a 2009 Cadillac CTS-V. I've got everything installed, except the remote power for the amp. The car has what's called Retained Accessory Power, where there are NO power sources that are only on when the key is turned on. I've checked EVERY fuse in the back, front, all cigarette lighters, aux power, etc, and they're all powered all the time. How do you go about adding a remote power to this? I've heard that the MTX Re-Q and Re-Q5 could do this, but I can't find them to buy anywhere. My car is in pieces right now waiting for a response, so the sooner, the better.

Thanks!

-Adam

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[Tehgregzor 10+ year member]

There are two options. One, you use a GMOS unit, which you would HAVE to have if you were wiring up your factory speakers to your stereo. However, you are running a 4 channel amp for your fronts and rears, and do not wish to purchase the 100$+ unit, I would suggest tapping DIRECTLY to your DRL (daytime running lights) power, which is going to be behind your headlights or near your side markers, depending on what's easier for you. I have used this method on newer Impalas for people who were amping their whole system, saving them the 100 dollar GMOS box. The GMOS isn't a bad unit though, it provides both acc power as well as a remote turn on lead, with adjustable gain for your factory system.

 

[Captain McFunk]

There are two options. One, you use a GMOS unit, which you would HAVE to have if you were wiring up your factory speakers to your stereo. However, you are running a 4 channel amp for your fronts and rears, and do not wish to purchase the 100$+ unit, I would suggest tapping DIRECTLY to your DRL (daytime running lights) power, which is going to be behind your headlights or near your side markers, depending on what's easier for you. I have used this method on newer Impalas for people who were amping their whole system, saving them the 100 dollar GMOS box. The GMOS isn't a bad unit though, it provides both acc power as well as a remote turn on lead, with adjustable gain for your factory system.

Can you shed more light on the GMOS unit? is it hard to install? What brand, or is GMOS the brand? Also, if you tied into the DRL, wouldn't it only power the amp when the headlights are off, i.e the daytime?

Thanks!

 

[Captain McFunk]

How about something like a PAC TR-4 remote trigger? just triggers the amp to turn on when it senses a signal through the speaker leads? Would this work?

Amazon.com: PAC TR-4 Low Voltage Remote Turn-On Trigger: Automotive

Thanks

 

[Tehgregzor 10+ year member]

DRL's stay on at all times when the car is running. Thats why I like tapping into those, rather than headlight circuit. Some fog lights are the same, they stay on.

The GMOS unit is made by AXXESS, its a decent little box that is basically a normal wire harness, with a built in chip that takes your constant and gives you a constant AND acc source of power when the car is on. I just checked metra fitment guide, Metra Online | Welcome to Metra Auto Parts Online Warehouse, and it doesn't list a GMOS unit for your car. I checked PAC too, and am not seeing anything. It looks like you're going to have to hard wire it. I'm not seeing an edition of the CTS-V that doesn't come with BOSE system standard. Bose tends to eq their systems BEFORE the signal is amplified, so barring any advice from a more experienced installer, I would run wires from the radio directly to each of the 4 speakers you choose, I suggest front doors and rear deck.

Here is a list of your speaker locations and sizes.

Front 1 9 3" deep

Front 2 3.25 2

Center 1 3.25 2

Rear 1 5.25 3

Rear 2 3.25 2

Subwoofer 10 3