Required installation materials for a second amp install with sub?

[xenofactor07 10+ year member]

HAHA true that... We're in Texas though so we got it better than most folks

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Just be sure that you put a fuse inline at the battery,so that you will not have any issues with your wiring burning up from the battery run to where your amp sits,,it can happen,and has happened to me back in the late 90s, as i knew no better to do so, and cost me a slightly burned enterior, for a simple fuse at the battery run.Make sure you do that with any run.It doesnt cost much..

 

[xenofactor07 10+ year member]

Yea I'm planning on buying another 8ga amp wiring kit. Same one that is on my current amp. Then I'll follow the original installer's wires. It should be easy!

The only thing I'm worried about is grounding the power wire and installing the inline fuse holder on the power wire. I don't know how to do this...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

HAHA true that... We're in Texas though so we got it better than most folks

LOL..it seems..wool does cover ones eyes to the truth at times..lol..Ive been in car audio since 87/88,and have had so many cars and audio systems, and have found ways to make things as easy as possible and get results as achieved.My truck holds 2 agm batts, a 255 amp alt, the big 5,rather than the big 3 done, and 4amps,oga wiring, 4 1000rms tens ported@32hz ea chamber,cdt Briax up front with 5.25 polk bass, and 2 sets of extra tweets, a set of 6.5 cdt components in rear, an eclipse hu, and a kicker kq9 preamp eq..in xcab 98 3dr chevy..the subs are 2.0cuft per chamber @30hz..sounds pretty good, i think..use all old school Autotek BTS,and Mean Machine amps

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Yea I'm planning on buying another 8ga amp wiring kit. Same one that is on my current amp. Then I'll follow the original installer's wires. It should be easy!
The only thing I'm worried about is grounding the power wire and installing the inline fuse holder on the power wire. I don't know how to do this...

Ground can be done at the amp to the structure/metal/bolt that goes to the frame..The new amp install kit will/should have a fuse holder that comes with it, that needs to be put at the battery,should be pretty easy to do..and should have instructions to do,as 1,2,3.Run the wiring, and ground that amp, before you put the fuse in of course.You can run a piggyback wire off your existing remote to your new amp also,and will turn on/off as your existing amp does, and save you some time there and shouldnt be an issue,and save some wire also

 

[xenofactor07 10+ year member]

Ok you kinda lost me... Here's a link to the amp kit.

StreetWires ZeroNoise 5 ZN5K-08 8-gauge amplifier wiring kit — blue power/clear ground at Crutchfield.com

The plastic oval shaped thing is the fuse holder, but it's not on the 8ga power wire out of the box. So how do I get the fuse holder on the power cable?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Street wires is an excellent brand.You see that you already have the ring terminal ready to connect to the batt on the blue wire/power wire..find a place that you want to screw down the fuse holder, and see how much wire you need, then cut it,and have it ready to remove the jacket a bit to expose wire to slide through the round sleeve and place inside the fuse holder..should have an allen screw to tighten down..there will be easy instructions on it..just make sure that when you unscrew the casing, and loosen the allen screw to remove the rubber/or plastic inside where the wire sets..its packing to keep the screw from falling out upon shipping,,a lot of people forget to take that out of there,and wonder why they have no power,or smell burning plastic..lol..with the extra blue wire left over, just run from under the hood to the amp,and cut what you need..you can put fuse in last if you want to,or connect to batt last..up to you.I always put everything together,and ground amp first then put terminal on at batt last,so its all done up..Ground amp first,run power wire and rcas then add the remote, then connect sub wiring then to batt are my steps ,then,power up and adjust gains on amp at my maxed level on the radio

 

[xenofactor07 10+ year member]

Ok so the allen screw is the trick. I got it. Regarding the ground, I haven't done enough investigation as to where the original installer grounded my original amp. If possible, should I ground the new amp at the same spot? Or is that bad to have two ring terminals grounding on the same bolt?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

When you get that fuse holder, you will see how easy it is to attatch the wiring,and streetwires have easy to read instructions as well..You will/should be just fine..After you get the kit in, and read the instructions, if you need more help, come on here and ask..someone can help if im not on even

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ok so the allen screw is the trick. I got it. Regarding the ground, I haven't done enough investigation as to where the original installer grounded my original amp. If possible, should I ground the new amp at the same spot? Or is that bad to have two ring terminals grounding on the same bolt?

If its a good ground spot, Id use it..Use a ring terminal and wiring to add..When you use the same ground, be sure to either take the power wire loose at the battery, or fuse out on the existing amp , so you dont have an issue/spark.I use a single ground of 4ga to one spot, and use a solid distro block for multi grounds, like this here

One 4 GA to Four 8 GA Power Ground Distribution Block | eBay works well for my needs

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Use the ground location that is available...and if you later have noise/whinning sound while the vehicle is running with the vehicle running, seperate the grounds on the amps/find another ground location for the new amp.I think you will be fine though

 

[xenofactor07 10+ year member]

Ok sounds good. I'll remember to remove the fuse. Regarding the remote wire, what is this for?? I don't think my head unit even has a connection for this. The head unit is a Kenwood KDC-BT752HD

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ok sounds good. I'll remember to remove the fuse. Regarding the remote wire, what is this for?? I don't think my head unit even has a connection for this. The head unit is a Kenwood KDC-BT752HD

The remote wiring has already been ran to your existing amp from the radio/headunit..it will say remote on the amp,normally next to the Poss/and neg on the amp..wiil say Remote..with the little 18/16ga blue wire in your kit,just cut off some to wire from your Remote on your Existing amp to your new amp..this allows for the on/off of the amplifiers at the turn of the knob of the headunit..Piggy back wiring is what I call it..no need to run another remote wire from the HU to the amp, when you already have it back there at the other amp.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/santa.gif.e1ec9cf2e0a0dd232ad35aa594a126d0.gif

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Your on/off/remote wire from your Head unit(HU) is blue/white wire on back of the hu,and prob/normally blue at the amp

 

[xenofactor07 10+ year member]

So you mean you'll have two remote wires coming out of the already installed amp? So it's existing wire out of HU, into original amp.. then NEW wire out of ORIGINAL amp, into NEW amp?