Replacement woofers with passive X-overs

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

I traded an amp for a set of CDT CL-61 speakers a while back and finally got them installed. I did a full and proper IB installed with deadning, full sealing and acoustical foam in the doors. The result was seriously bad for the amount of work I put into them. I suppose the tweets are ok for now but I'd really like to swap out the mids... so what kind of things do I need to look for other than the same ohms to make a proper drop in replacement. I'd like to replace

http://www.cdtaudio.com/classic2000MidDriv.htm (CL-6)

with

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-374

anyone have any inputs for me?

Click to read more...

 

[khail19 10+ year member]

Those Dayton RS drivers are very nice, but they need a fairly low x-over point (around 2000 hz or so). If you look at the response graph on the PE site, you'll see that after 2000hz the response curve goes down sharply and jumps all over the place. I think the x-over point on the CDTs is quite a bit higher than that, probably past 4000hz.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

Those Dayton RS drivers are very nice, but they need a fairly low x-over point (around 2000 hz or so). If you look at the response graph on the PE site, you'll see that after 2000hz the response curve goes down sharply and jumps all over the place. I think the x-over point on the CDTs is quite a bit higher than that, probably past 4000hz.

hmmm... so they'd sound like shite too... prob not nearly as bad as the CL-6's but still... hmmm and I really don't plan on going active any time soon.....

 

[khail19 10+ year member]

It's pretty hard to match up existing crossovers with drivers that they weren't designed for. Either going active or custom DIY crossovers are the best way to do it.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

yea i don't think you can probably find a DIY mid to go w/ the those passives. lots of the DIY mids shouldn't be crossed passed 3khz or so. maybe find another CDT mid or something or some other popular mid that comes with component sets (ie rainbow, dls, dynaudio, etc...).

 

[khail19 10+ year member]

Maybe get the CDT EF mids, they should match up well and get you better SQ and more power handling.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

yea i don't think you can probably find a DIY mid to go w/ the those passives. lots of the DIY mids shouldn't be crossed passed 3khz or so. maybe find another CDT mid or something or some other popular mid that comes with component sets (ie rainbow, dls, dynaudio, etc...).

well I'm sitting on the fence between going active eventually and getting a nice set of rainbows... but that's all months away... I'd like a set of mids to stand in till I can afford something down the road... I'm just really unimpressed with the CL-6's... they make me with I had my aura MR62's back.. they sounded better with less power in unsealed/undeadened doors!!

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

Maybe get the CDT EF mids, they should match up well and get you better SQ and more power handling.

I'd rather avoid CDT for now... if I was going to blow more money I'd go with Rainbows...

 

[khail19 10+ year member]

If you are coming from Auras then you aren't going to be happy with any of the lower end CDT offerings. Just save your money and get some Rainbows!

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

If you are coming from Auras then you aren't going to be happy with any of the lower end CDT offerings. Just save your money and get some Rainbows!

yah... I think that's going to be the ticket... if the Aura's hadn't been so deep I would have kept them... ohh well... 3 or 4 more months of these dismal speakers I guess...

 

[alteraudiousa 10+ year member]

you went from Aura to low end CDT and expected the same results....I would get the HD-6 and call it good.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

you went from Aura to low end CDT and expected the same results....I would get the HD-6 and call it good.

I was hoping the proper install would make the results acceptable... I was wrong... I want rainbows now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

i think your best bet would be to give the CL mids a highpass and get a dedicated midbass. put the midbass in the doors and make kicks.

would solve all your problems because i know the midrange in the CL's is great. i had the same set.

or just go active and get new mids that have more authority in the lowend. but then again - your tweets prolly wont wanna play any lower. so its eaither change everything [again i presume] or get a 3way front //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

the 3way front would be the easiest to integrate tbh.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

i think your best bet would be to give the CL mids a highpass and get a dedicated midbass. put the midbass in the doors and make kicks.
would solve all your problems because i know the midrange in the CL's is great. i had the same set.

or just go active and get new mids that have more authority in the lowend. but then again - your tweets prolly wont wanna play any lower. so its eaither change everything [again i presume] or get a 3way front //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

the 3way front would be the easiest to integrate tbh.

well there's two problems... first there is no room for kicks in these 4Runners... I had to do some annoying mods just to get the mids into the doors since the stock location is a 4" in the dash. Also I don't want to spend the money/time on a 3 way set.... I could do a 3 way door panel install but I'd want a smaller, shallower mid... here's the best 4runner install I've been able to find:

http://www.streetdreams.com/install/toyota/4runner1995a.html

I'll prob move the tweets out of the sail panels when I get new speakers but I don't want to go srazy with a 3 way active...