Remote Lead Issues

[sin]

Hi There,

just having an unusual problem with my remote turn on lead, fans/neons and my amplifier.

System:

http://www-personal.monash.edu.au/~mapad3/Shannon/system.gif

please note there ARE fuses everywhere, i jsut forgot to add them. (Please exuse the crude diagram)

Problem:

Okay, its hard to explain, basically what happens is, in the current configuration (as per diagram), the amplifiers power green light stays on fine and everything works electronically well. The problem is that its dodgy.

* The front speakers attached to the amp occasionally cut out (both). However when they cut out, you can get close and hear them JUST working.

* The sub goes from loud to quiet, and when its loud it has a really nasty sound coming from it when the sub movement is big. Its really like a crackling sound coming from the sub itself. It still goes well and plays the lows, but this sound is really unhealthy. When the sub cuts out, you can feel it JUST vibrate small.

* Rest of system works fine.

What i have done:

* Checked every speaker lead and terminal to see if any are touching the chassis.

* Checked all the power wires to see they are not touching.

* The power wires and speaker wires are separated.

* Connected the fans directly to the battery to check for current draw problems and interference. Everything is fine.

What i have worked out:

* When i disconnect the remote turn lead on from the relay, the system operates perfectly without a hitch, sounds great.

* When i connect the remote lead again, those nasty sounds from the sub come back but the speakers work for a couple of minutes then cut out.

So if you need more information, or can help me out ill be greatly appreciative,

Thankyou and best regards

James A.

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[pavengmike6 10+ year member]

It almost sounds like the current draw to the relay to turn on the fans is pulling to much power from your remote turn on. Even though there is very minor voltage comming out of the turn on, and in theory it should not drop, try a few things. move the relay turn on after the amp, or install a switch that allows you to turn on and off the fans when you want.

 

[cyberbob25 10+ year member]

Assuming that your relay is numbered according to the standard, you have it wired up backward. Here's how I would do it:

First, instead of splitting the remote wire from the HU to the relay and amp, I would split the power output wire on the relay to go the fans and the amp remote turn-on (I don't think it would really make too much of a difference this way, but a lot of head units put out a very very small amount of current on the remote wire).

Pin 30: Should be +12V wire from battery

Pin 87: Should be wire going to Remote Turn-ons (amp and fans)

Pin 85: Should be remote wire from HU (to switch the relay)

Pin 86: -12V (Ground)

I could be entirely wrong here, I'm just assuming that most relays follow the same standards for numbering their pins. This is the diagram I've seen on most websites I've researched, and this is how mine is wired and it works flawlessly.

Good luck!

 

[sin]

Hi Again,

Thanks for the speedy replies guys. I have just been out there and tried your relay configuration cyberbob25 and the problem is still there without a change. Then i tried yours, pavengmike6 (conneting the remote lead to the fans after the amp), and that works, only problem is that the system volume goes extremly quiet when i connect the remote turn on to the relay. When i disconnect it, the volume goes up again. This lead me to believe there was some serious voltage drops happening. So i grabbed the multimeter and got this:

* Without fans - 10.3V constant at the amplifier (remote lead)

* When fans connected - 8.3V average (as it heavily fluctuates from 8-9 volts) at the amplifier (remote lead)

Any more ideas?

Thanks once again and best regards

James.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

OK. You should be using the relay to switch everything. If you are having that kind of voltage drop you are definitely asking too much of your HU. Run the turn on from the amp to the relay. Split it from there to the amp and the fans. Measure the voltage across the relay. Check pin 30 to ground. Should be 12ish volts. Check pin 87 to ground. Should be the same as pin 30. If you are getting a drop across the relay, then you need a new relay. Check pin 85 to ground. If you are getting less than 12V you have a problem with your HU remote lead. You can sort of get around this by running a relay off your IGN wire to the HU to turn your amps and fans on and off when your car is on.

Per your diagram you have the relay itself wired quite wrong. Check this link for the idea of how it should work. http://www.6066gmctrucks.org/BoschRelay.htm