Recommended AMP for DB Drive K5F12D4 12" sub? Please help!!

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

Hey guys, I've read these forums for a while now but have just came around to posting.

I have a 2010 Toyota Tundra Double Cab and just had the K5F12D4 12" installed the other day and I love it. It hits hard, but I want more vibration. I had it installed by my guy at MeggaMax and it sounds GREAT but just doesn't vibrate enough.

I used my JL Audio 200 watt amp (it's about 8 years old). I'm not sure that the RMS on it is 200 watts, though. It's an old amp and I don't have the box anymore. Anyway, what amp would you recommend to get more hitting power, and would it make a lot of difference?

The sub has 500 watt max power, and 250 nominal power, and dual 4 ohms flat.

Thanks so much for any help!!

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[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

its a shallow mount amp and u should of never bought it as u could of prob got a better shallow easily if u posted on her, a new amp will not get u much louder.

Stereo Integrity | SI BM mkIII

450rms

best shallow mount sub out their and u prob paid close to what this costs

SC12S4 MEMPHIS 12" SHALLOW 4 OHM SVC SUBWOOFER NEW SUB - eBay (item 110533444147 end time Jun-13-10 17:37:52 PDT)

my next fav shallow

if u can return the sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

its a shallow mount amp and u should of never bought it as u could of prob got a better shallow easily if u posted on her, a new amp will not get u much louder.
Stereo Integrity | SI BM mkIII

450rms

best shallow mount sub out their and u prob paid close to what this costs

SC12S4 MEMPHIS 12" SHALLOW 4 OHM SVC SUBWOOFER NEW SUB - eBay (item 110533444147 end time Jun-13-10 17:37:52 PDT)

my next fav shallow

if u can return the sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Thanks for the reply.

If I get a new sub, would I also need a new amp or should I be fine? And, will these subs fit in any custom made box? I can call and see if I can return it, but I don't know. I paid $169 for the sub. Worse case scenario I could sell it on craigslist or something, even though I'd have some lost money.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

yes u will be much happier witht he better sub, whats the mounting depth and space inside the box, its the sub, ud prob be happier with another sub, maybe we can fit a reg sub in the box

 

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

yes u will be much happier witht he better sub, whats the mounting depth and space inside the box, its the sub, ud prob be happier with another sub, maybe we can fit a reg sub in the box

Depth is about 5", under the seat of the double cab Tundra. Would I need another amp also?

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

db drive is good stuff i have been selling for many yrs. what i would do is run a pair of these subs in a ported enclosure with a amp in the 700-800rms range. most of ur sound is in the box...

 

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

db drive is good stuff i have been selling for many yrs. what i would do is run a pair of these subs in a ported enclosure with a amp in the 700-800rms range. most of ur sound is in the box...

I am sure that that system would sound great, but I don't want to add more subs. I just want one, and I'd rather save rather than spending additional money on getting all new boxes and everything. Really, I just want to improve the power of what I have.

If a new amp would improve the bass of my current sub, than I'll just go that route. If I need a new sub, than I could do that, but I just want to know if I'll need a new amp as well to go along with it.

Thanks again for the replys.

 

[Johnny Law.Lulz 5,000+ posts]

If its a dual 4, i wonder if that shop installed it as 8 ohm. Is your amp a mono block ?

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

we need more info on the amp and sub

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

get a new amp and see how u like it i would say then go from their, i think ur going to want another sub in the end though, get an amp that puts 500 to 600 rms at 2 ohm since u have a dual 4 ohm sub.

REFURB Cadence FXA1700 1400 Watt Mono Block Amplifier - eBay (item 260574173285 end time May-22-10 10:51:38 PDT)

Cadence A5+HC 600 Watt Competition Mono Block Amplifier - eBay (item 290368818833 end time Jun-08-10 10:47:34 PDT)

best amp imho for the price quality, zed built rated at 12v

Kicker KX400.1 Class D Mono Amplifier with Bass Remote - eBay (item 310215884720 end time May-24-10 18:11:58 PDT)

great deal underrated, i would go with this 4 the price

NEW ALPINE MRP-M500 MONO BLOCK AMPLIFIER MRPM500 AMP - eBay (item 400123366220 end time Jun-18-10 14:13:34 PDT)

all these are good choices

 

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

OK guys, thanks again for all the replies. I checked out my amp and it was turned down almost all the way and the bass boost was turned off. After turning bass boost on and upping the watts to about 150 (200 is full power) it's hitting WAY harder. That was the problem.

One thing, the amp is getting pretty hot. Even before I turned it up it was hot after playing for about 30 minutes. Is it OK to turn on the bass boost (bass boost only has two options, on or off) and wattage or have I given it too much power? Is overheating a possibility? I really don't want to catch the truck on fire, lol.

Thanks again guys, I'm learning..

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

turn ur bass boost off. the gain is NOT a vol knob. ur tring to overdrive the amp because its not enough power. ur sub i'm guessing is in a tiny sealed enclosure?

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

yep u need a more powerful amp its getting hot because u have the gain up and never use bassboost, thats why i recomend those 600rms amps its always good to have more power, u prob sending a dirty signal, thats how subs are blown

 

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

turn ur bass boost off. the gain is NOT a vol knob. ur tring to overdrive the amp because its not enough power. ur sub i'm guessing is in a tiny sealed enclosure?

No, the box actually is actually under my entire back seat in the tundra. It's a box built specifically for this truck and it's a pretty big one.

So turn the bass boost off?

And I'm kind of dumb on this subject, but what exactly is the gain? Is it the knob that goes from 0-200? If so, what number is a good number to have it on?

BTW the amp was hot before I turned it up, and after turning it up it hasn't gotten any hotter than it was before.

 

[Smitty114 10+ year member]

OK here are the exact Specifications of my AMP and sub.

AMP is a JL Audio e1200 with..

Class AB Monoblock Full Range Amplifier

Patented Absolute Symmetry dual N-Channel MOSFET output design

Pass-through RCA outputs

State-variable, 12dB/Oct Butterworth crossover with continously variable cutoff frequency selection from 50 - 200Hz.

Configurable as High or Low pass Filter

High level inputs

CEA-2006 Compliant

RMS Power Rating:

200 watts x 1 chan. at 2 Ohms

120 watts x 1 chan. at 4 Ohms

Frequency Response: 10Hz - 25kHz

Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 Ohms / 50Hz

Slew Rate: +- 22V/us

Input Range: 200mV - 8V RMS

Bass Boost: 0 - 6dB (0 - 18dB with Bass remote - Not Included)

Dimensions: 9.8" L x 9.25" W x 2.36" H

SUB is a DB-Drive K5 F12 D4 with..

3” 4 layer Dual 4 OHM VC w/ Aluminum Former / PP Coated Paper Cone with Rubber Surround / Paper Sub Cone / 60 oz. Ferrite magnet / Stamped Steel Frame Design / Black Electro-plated Top and Bottom Plates / Fibre Mixed Spider / PVC Trim Ring/Gasket / Spring Terminals

Specifications:

SUBWOOFERS STRUCTURE: 12

MAX POWER: 500 Watts

NOMINAL POWER: 250 Watts

IMPEDENCE: Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coils

M CARTON: 4