Recommend sub size based on application

That is almost exactly what I was thinking...
Would sound great, and you will/should be able to get the amp/sub/well,made enclosure/and wiring kit,all within your budget.Should sound fantastic, and getting your moneys worth,and if you decide to resale later, you shouldnt have any issues in my opinion:)

 
Thanks...

What exactly is the tune at 32hz? How does that change the sound compared to no tune or higher35/lower28 numbers?

 
Thanks...
What exactly is the tune at 32hz? How does that change the sound compared to no tune or higher35/lower28 numbers?
Port tune /Different sized port tuned to hit @ lower Frequency/lower notes is my understanding.Higher Htz,louder higher pitch.if a subwoofer hitting lower than 30 htz all day, is just fantastic,imo.If you can get it tuned/ported from 30-35 htz, it should sound /hit clean and low and sound very nice

 
If you go with a sealed enclosure,you are not going to have to worry about that,the size of the enclosure sealed will determine the Htz range,mainly.im sure that Prorabbit/Buck,and others can give you more detail as to tuning/porting/htz/and proper spacing ect for a good sub box, as they build professionaly,as I do not.I try to go by specs, and build accordingly and get close, or for what has worked for me in the past,and still does.Ive always ran tens,they can be a quick punch ,and hit some lows as well.I generally like to see anywhere from 1.4-2.6 cu ft per 10in sub ported, and like to see anywhere from 1.0-2.0 on a sealed enclosure for a single ten.I think/feel like the sub you are getting will do excellent ported

 
Yeah I need to get some more info from the pro builders here or other sites. I don't think there are any places local to me...

 
Yeah I need to get some more info from the pro builders here or other sites. I don't think there are any places local to me...
These guys on here are professional, and do for a living, so you are going to get the best for your hard earned money,you may even get a cut out sheet, and build for yourself as well

 
One of the biggest myths about woofers is that 8's and 10's are "tighter" and "cleaner" than 15's or 18's. Nothing is further from the truth. What tends to happen is that the smaller drivers have lower Q's because manufactures tend to put large cones on smaller motors to increase SPL and sensitivity but not BL product. Well unless the motor can compensate for the extra mass it has to push, then the Qts will not be the same as the smaller drivers and ultimately the driver may not be suited for the same kinds of alignments and could ring too much and compromise the perceived sound quality. Having said that, high Qts drivers are not any less "tight" or "musical" than well dampened drivers, it's just they require larger boxes and less internal pressure to prevent ringing. Ultimately there becomes a point where a driver really should be used in an infinite baffle where its actual Qts and Fs becomes the system Qtc and Fc. As enclosure volume decreases, Qtc increases and it will take a driver with a low Qts to make for an average Q system. So in conclusion, the only reason to use a smaller bass driver is for space, weight and potentially power considerations, but likewise, it is inappropriate to try and fit a larger driver into a space smaller than it is ideal for.
Ahh, the power of CTRL + C and CTRL + V.

 
These guys on here are professional, and do for a living, so you are going to get the best for your hard earned money,you may even get a cut out sheet, and build for yourself as well
You know how much a box like that will cost and I would hate to know how much it would be to ship...

 
Man sure dont..I either build my own, or have a local do it.Might run a thread to see what builder could do for you shipped on here, be the best bet.

 
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