Re: JL Audio!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why did you set that up like that? I mean I could understand if the subs were matching but do you not know that different model subs preform differently? You have a lot to learn about CA and how things are on this forum. I'm sure there have been countless threads like this but I think just about anyone on here that actually has some intelligence and common sense can search for opinions on JL equipment. But since I have already posted, I might as well throw in the fact that JL makes nice amps and subs, but don't break them. JL amps are always expensive to fix and sub recones (if you can get them reconed) are very expensive. For now I'll stick with my Sundown equipment. It's more fun to embarrass these punks around here with their 500/1's and 2 12w3v3's with my 15.
I have learned a lot. like I said, another 13w6v2 would simply not fit, so it had to be a 13w3v3.

No cancelation IMO.

I like JL stuff.

sundown is a great brand. I installed an amp of theirs in this guys car.

 
You have convinced yourself you have that one in a million system that defies all conventional acoustical theory, where having two different subs actually works. Just like every other guy who runs different subs.

Sticking "imo" at the end of a sentence doesn't automatically turn the topic into a subjective one.

 
I have learned a lot. like I said, another 13w6v2 would simply not fit, so it had to be a 13w3v3.No cancelation IMO.

I like JL stuff.

sundown is a great brand. I installed an amp of theirs in this guys car.
"IMO" you haven't learned crap if "IYO" 2 different subs isn't causing issues.
 
Say one sub is crossed to play the low bass and the other sub the "higher" bass, would this still cause cancelation?
Thats how its setup. I'm running 25-80 Hrz to the w6v2's and 70-220 Hrz on the w3v3.

And I'm notgoing to get into acustical theories, but it ****ing sounds good.

Besides the point, I decided to keep some room in my trunk, and my spare tire, and sold the 13w3v3.

bought 2 8" pioneer shallows to replace the midbass

 
Thats how its setup. I'm running 25-80 Hrz to the w6v2's and 70-220 Hrz on the w3v3.
And I'm notgoing to get into acustical theories, but it ****ing sounds good.

Besides the point, I decided to keep some room in my trunk, and my spare tire, and sold the 13w3v3.

bought 2 8" pioneer shallows to replace the midbass
Why?

Just one of those drivers is capable of covering that entire sub spectrum precisely. Going to 220hz with a sub is BEYOND retarded as well. That's what midbass drivers do.

You won't get into theory, because you don't have a clue.

 
Thats how its setup. I'm running 25-80 Hrz to the w6v2's and 70-220 Hrz on the w3v3.
And I'm notgoing to get into acustical theories, but it ****ing sounds good.

Besides the point, I decided to keep some room in my trunk, and my spare tire, and sold the 13w3v3.

bought 2 8" pioneer shallows to replace the midbass
Okay, I no longer believe you.
You said originally that you just flip a switch and the second set of subs comes on, while the other subs play 24/7. This means when you are only playing one sub, you have a big hole in your freq response? Or are we to believe you hit one switch and it adjusts your entire crossover network to compensate?

 
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