BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Item(s) for Sale:
Here's a circa 2000-2001 RE HC 15 with original soft parts and some preventative work on lead wire/terminal joint done by me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. See details below. These subs are known for being absolute low end monsters, give it a 2kw amp and call it a day. I think 3-4 cubs at 30hz-34hz was ideal.
I bought this to downsize from my trf monster and put some $ towards bills....but apparently the buyer backed out and isn't very good at returning my phone calls, so here this is for sale (keeping my monster now).
This HC is an affordable low end beasts that'll do an easy 140db or more off 2kw with a good daily tuned box.
Item(s) Description/Condition:
Let's start with the lead wire work as that's what everyone is most curious about. Every old school RE and early Fi sub I've ever used (a few xxx's, an sx, btl, and an mt) had issues with the leads breaking at the speaker wire terminal if: 1) they were not woven or secured down like the later years were AND 2) the sub experienced over excursion at all. These subs would always have the lead wires snap off right at the terminal if you weren't careful (granted I used to push the hell out of these sub sometimes beyond their limits....but who doesn't?) The cone side of the lead is usually glued and/or cushioned just like this one, but the terminal side can weaken over time. When I got this sub recently, the leads looked fine (not previous broken or tampered with), but that wasn't good enough for me....
My solution is simple, and something I've done on numerous woofer over the years. Un solder the leads at the terminals, crimp nice thick speaker wire to the lead (gold plated beefy crimps too), and position the new joint in place and zip tie the new joint into place on the old metal terminal. All my work has been checked, rechecked, and tested fine. The leads are not coming out of their their joints, and the new angle takes some stress off that joint. I'm refering to how before the leads stuck straight up out of the terminal then bent towards the cone. Now that the new lead joint aims more towards the cone, less stress to that joint than before.
There's a reason most (well the smart) woofer manufactures switched to woven/secured leads. I would also like to note that it is more difficult, though not impossible, to repair snapped leads in this similar fashion. The beauty with this one is because the leads were the original unbroken length, it was much easier to work with and position.
Other cosmetic notes about the sub. There were some scuffs to the surround in two spots (pictured). Neither scuff penetrated through the surround, you can look behind by the basket and see the surround is fully intact. I put some goop on the foam in these two spots just as an added fortification should this woofer see serious abuse by the next owner. Back of the motor has scuffs, nothing awful or performance changing.
Sub has the original old school RE **** cone, fat surround, 4 spoke basket, and built for abuse coil. Coil looks great from what I can see into it. No rub, no tears in the spiders, all the magnets are aligned, no noticeable chips or damage Cone is in good shape, dust cap as well...plenty of life left in this. Currently wired to a parallel 1 ohm nominal load (my dmm shows 0.9 ohm). I built the direct leads so that it can be easily rewired if a different load is needed.
Found some TS parameters //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif :
Qts=0.4
Znom=2
Fs=25.7
Pe=1200
SPL=88.59
Re=2.2
Le=0
fLe=0
KLe=0
BL=22.6
Xmax=0.021
Cms=6.2E-5
Qms=7.06
Qes=0.43
Rms=14.13878
Mms=0.6182
Sd=0.081
Vas=0.1146
Dia=0
Vd=0.00170097724584057
Price:
250 shipped OBO. I can be flexible with the price depending on how far from FL you are. Sub is about 50+ lbs. Local sales welcome in the central florida area.
NO TRADES
Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information:
USPS Insured
Item Pictures:
Here's a circa 2000-2001 RE HC 15 with original soft parts and some preventative work on lead wire/terminal joint done by me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. See details below. These subs are known for being absolute low end monsters, give it a 2kw amp and call it a day. I think 3-4 cubs at 30hz-34hz was ideal.
I bought this to downsize from my trf monster and put some $ towards bills....but apparently the buyer backed out and isn't very good at returning my phone calls, so here this is for sale (keeping my monster now).
This HC is an affordable low end beasts that'll do an easy 140db or more off 2kw with a good daily tuned box.
Item(s) Description/Condition:
Let's start with the lead wire work as that's what everyone is most curious about. Every old school RE and early Fi sub I've ever used (a few xxx's, an sx, btl, and an mt) had issues with the leads breaking at the speaker wire terminal if: 1) they were not woven or secured down like the later years were AND 2) the sub experienced over excursion at all. These subs would always have the lead wires snap off right at the terminal if you weren't careful (granted I used to push the hell out of these sub sometimes beyond their limits....but who doesn't?) The cone side of the lead is usually glued and/or cushioned just like this one, but the terminal side can weaken over time. When I got this sub recently, the leads looked fine (not previous broken or tampered with), but that wasn't good enough for me....
My solution is simple, and something I've done on numerous woofer over the years. Un solder the leads at the terminals, crimp nice thick speaker wire to the lead (gold plated beefy crimps too), and position the new joint in place and zip tie the new joint into place on the old metal terminal. All my work has been checked, rechecked, and tested fine. The leads are not coming out of their their joints, and the new angle takes some stress off that joint. I'm refering to how before the leads stuck straight up out of the terminal then bent towards the cone. Now that the new lead joint aims more towards the cone, less stress to that joint than before.
There's a reason most (well the smart) woofer manufactures switched to woven/secured leads. I would also like to note that it is more difficult, though not impossible, to repair snapped leads in this similar fashion. The beauty with this one is because the leads were the original unbroken length, it was much easier to work with and position.
Other cosmetic notes about the sub. There were some scuffs to the surround in two spots (pictured). Neither scuff penetrated through the surround, you can look behind by the basket and see the surround is fully intact. I put some goop on the foam in these two spots just as an added fortification should this woofer see serious abuse by the next owner. Back of the motor has scuffs, nothing awful or performance changing.
Sub has the original old school RE **** cone, fat surround, 4 spoke basket, and built for abuse coil. Coil looks great from what I can see into it. No rub, no tears in the spiders, all the magnets are aligned, no noticeable chips or damage Cone is in good shape, dust cap as well...plenty of life left in this. Currently wired to a parallel 1 ohm nominal load (my dmm shows 0.9 ohm). I built the direct leads so that it can be easily rewired if a different load is needed.
Found some TS parameters //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif :
Qts=0.4
Znom=2
Fs=25.7
Pe=1200
SPL=88.59
Re=2.2
Le=0
fLe=0
KLe=0
BL=22.6
Xmax=0.021
Cms=6.2E-5
Qms=7.06
Qes=0.43
Rms=14.13878
Mms=0.6182
Sd=0.081
Vas=0.1146
Dia=0
Vd=0.00170097724584057
Price:
250 shipped OBO. I can be flexible with the price depending on how far from FL you are. Sub is about 50+ lbs. Local sales welcome in the central florida area.
NO TRADES
Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information:
USPS Insured
Item Pictures:
