Rainbow Soundline Question

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

Sweet thx for the help guys, and ology, sorry I can't get my buddy to buy yours, but it's just out of his price range //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif .

k tats coo -- you have a pm btw

 

[Semi-Auto 10+ year member]

you heard the midbass was weak? running what? Rainbow Soundline standard mids are some of the more pronounced midbass range 2way drivers around comparing them to much more pricey sets. Kickbass is a step above that in the 80-220 range while maintaing superb midrange up to the 2500hz cxover point.

I want the Profi Vanadium Kick Bass Coponets.

A member of this board I beleave had the SCL Rainbows If i rember correctly. He did say that it could be his car, But I took with a grain of salt as I heard plenty of weak midbass from Rainbow drivers

I havent heard anything about these kick bass so if these are a step above then Im sure this is the choice.

The standard midbass drivers are not 'weak' by any means- they are detailed, accurate, punchy...if you desire the more robust, exagerated midbass punch out of the same size driver thats what the Kickbass is suited for.

What do you mean Robust Exageration? are you speaking of coloration?

I would prefer to stay away from coloration as I went out and bought an

ppi a.600 White art series amp

so are you saying the Profi V is more True sound then the Profi V Kick Bass driver?

Apparently people dont think too much about the things that make or break a particular drivers purpose in car (other than properly installing them) Like what rearstage (subs/power) are you trying to keep up with?Power? System Integration is key.

I say running a pair of 12's w/ 1kw+ rms....there aren't many 6.5's out there that would please me unless sealed and have the subs attenuated to hell to blend in.

I Have two 15'' Avalanches Ported 5 or 7 cube undecided but will be 28hz

2 1000/1 or C2k.9, {{can You show me arc audio site I heard hes The Z in zapco}

No rear fill(Just the 2 Holes)

Eclipse 8445

PPi Art a.600 Amp

I need to keep up with the 15'' avalanches but have the clearest of clarity

I know people running the Ed 6's as subs, not midbass. Not quite the type of driver you want in a 2way application. There are lots of variables, application/integration included. IMO the more 'sub -like' performance you expect from your midbass, the closer you are leaning towards a 3way setup.

(1) I was thinking get the 2 way Rainbow Profi V Kick Bass

and stick the 6 inch ED Sub as the lowend Mid Bass

and make it a 3 way setup.

(2) Or do you feel the 3 way Rainbow setup would be a better choice

(3)or is a 3 way setup even nessary or if the kick bass is even nessary

 

[3.5Max6spd 10+ year member]

I want the Profi Vanadium Kick Bass Coponets.A member of this board I beleave had the SCL Rainbows If i rember correctly. He did say that it could be his car, But I took with a grain of salt as I heard plenty of weak midbass from Rainbow drivers

I havent heard anything about these kick bass so if these are a step above then Im sure this is the choice.

What do you mean Robust Exageration? are you speaking of coloration?

I would prefer to stay away from coloration as I went out and bought an

ppi a.600 White art series amp

so are you saying the Profi V is more True sound then the Profi V Kick Bass driver?

I Have two 15'' Avalanches Ported 5 or 7 cube undecided but will be 28hz

2 1000/1 or C2k.9, {{can You show me arc audio site I heard hes The Z in zapco}

No rear fill(Just the 2 Holes)

Eclipse 8445

PPi Art a.600 Amp

I need to keep up with the 15'' avalanches but have the clearest of clarity

(1) I was thinking get the 2 way Rainbow Profi V Kick Bass

and stick the 6 inch ED Sub as the lowend Mid Bass

and make it a 3 way setup.

(2) Or do you feel the 3 way Rainbow setup would be a better choice

(3)or is a 3 way setup even nessary or if the kick bass is even nessary

I think if you have the amplifier chs and xover frlexibility to go active, get the midbass driver YOU want if going 3way- cant really go wrong with any driver playing that small range of freq IMO- thats the prob w/ 2ways- the mid has to do too much work(covering that large freq range) and ends up sacrificing areas.

By robust, i mean you will get more output or at least hear it more pronounced- not so much coloration, but a plus for 30degree off axis response- in a door, more output at that angle you will hear it more. Now if you are going to aim them with some fab work- any standard Rainbow mid will kick you in the chest plenty.

 

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

I want the Profi Vanadium Kick Bass Coponets.A member of this board I beleave had the SCL Rainbows If i rember correctly. He did say that it could be his car, But I took with a grain of salt as I heard plenty of weak midbass from Rainbow drivers

I havent heard anything about these kick bass so if these are a step above then Im sure this is the choice.

What do you mean Robust Exageration? are you speaking of coloration?

I would prefer to stay away from coloration as I went out and bought an

ppi a.600 White art series amp

so are you saying the Profi V is more True sound then the Profi V Kick Bass driver?

I Have two 15'' Avalanches Ported 5 or 7 cube undecided but will be 28hz

2 1000/1 or C2k.9, {{can You show me arc audio site I heard hes The Z in zapco}

No rear fill(Just the 2 Holes)

Eclipse 8445

PPi Art a.600 Amp

I need to keep up with the 15'' avalanches but have the clearest of clarity

(1) I was thinking get the 2 way Rainbow Profi V Kick Bass

and stick the 6 inch ED Sub as the lowend Mid Bass

and make it a 3 way setup.

(2) Or do you feel the 3 way Rainbow setup would be a better choice

(3)or is a 3 way setup even nessary or if the kick bass is even nessary

Looks like custom is the way to go if you ask me...

 

[acousticguitar 10+ year member]

custom is cool, but i would only go custom with an active setup personally.

as for the rainbows, the mids are definitely strong enough. even below 150, i find them sometimes overpowering. there's a reason a lot of SQ comps in Europe are won by ppl with the SLC line. (yes, the SLC line!)

 

[Semi-Auto 10+ year member]

Looks like custom is the way to go if you ask me...

what is custom and what is active you have to bare with me I spent months reserching subs and amps now its tim eto get speakers and i havnt leanrd squat yet

im also afraid of the dealers/installers would know ho wto instal rainbows correctly

 

[acousticguitar 10+ year member]

Custom is buying speakers without crossovers from companies that do not market publicly. its the OEM manufacturers often behind the big names. (e.g., morel makes the Alpine Type X's) the problem w/ active is this: its a LOT of work... and it will cost you even more to get an installer who would do it right as there are a lot of snags that can happen if your installer has a bad day, sucks, etc. Which is why companies sell components.

In your case, I would get a component set. If you aren't doing it yourself and unless you are prepared to shell out a LOT of money for install, get a component set. There are so many good component sets out there that its not even funny anymore.

 

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

Custom is buying speakers without crossovers from companies that do not market publicly. its the OEM manufacturers often behind the big names. (e.g., morel makes the Alpine Type X's) the problem w/ active is this: its a LOT of work... and it will cost you even more to get an installer who would do it right as there are a lot of snags that can happen if your installer has a bad day, sucks, etc. Which is why companies sell components.
In your case, I would get a component set. If you aren't doing it yourself and unless you are prepared to shell out a LOT of money for install, get a component set. There are so many good component sets out there that its not even funny anymore.

DST does Alpine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif -- anywho...

A custom passive is a good alternative... tons of amps and EQ and lots of setup time are not needed... PM me if you want some more info about this.

But you are still going to want to install things yourself... regardless of the direction you go... Average installers screw up like the rest of us... and awesome installers will run you ~$90/hour... or more

 

[acousticguitar 10+ year member]

Not the Type X's IIRC.

Good installers do cost.. probably not $90 unless you want someone like scott buwalda. I got one of the best installers in CA to do my stuff at $75/hr.

 

[OlogyAudio 10+ year member]

Not the Type X's IIRC.
Good installers do cost.. probably not $90 unless you want someone like scott buwalda. I got one of the best installers in CA to do my stuff at $75/hr.

The Type X low end ones are crappy versions of the Vifa XT wood pulp drivers... just a great deal lower quality... -- Cone is good -- motor is well... not nearly so hot...

The Type X F#1 status are Scan Speak drivers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Yea you can find good installers at ~$70/hr -- but they like to charge more when working with fiberglass for some reason... Don't blame them rly...

 

[lotas 10+ year member]

The Type X F#1 status are Scan Speak drivers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Yes siree bobber...Revelators I believe.