Quick Question

[KeRPaL0389 10+ year member]

I'm new to the whole car audio scene and such, but I decided I wanted some subwoofers in my car. I bought some entry level ones (alpine type e's to be exact), and I am pretty satisfied with them. I hooked them up to the stock amp in my ford explorer (came with mach audio system) just to have them running before I could buy a new amp. The only problem is, when im playing rap with deep, long bass notes they tend to make a weird vibration sound. Now when I turn the bass down this is eliminated, but I am also wondering if maybe the amp is not pushing near enough power, nor the quality of power needed to run the subs. I was just wondering if I could get some advice from someone about this issue. Would buying a new, better amp that runs more power help this problem? Or is there maybe something else wrong with my system? Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks.

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[hdave 10+ year member]

not too sure, could be the amp is sending a clipped / distorted signal at higher volumes

also could be the subs (which i kind of doubt) but hopefully someone else here can help you cuz im new also.

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

could be the box if u made it yourself

who installed it???

mabye you could ask them because without hearing it, its hard to tell

 

[swaptrex 10+ year member]

could be a number of things, but i wouldn't reccomend hooking those to your factory amp.

 

[KeRPaL0389 10+ year member]

Well I bought the box and subs at circuit city, and I also highly doubt it's the subs too. I never really thought it was the best idea to hook the subs to the stock amp, but it was in there and availble to use for the moment so I just went ahead and did it. Most likely what I'll do is just go buy a new amp and have someone install and tweak it for me, that way i get the best sound out of them. But, if anyone else has any suggestions or comments please let me know what you think.

 

[KeRPaL0389 10+ year member]

Another question.... what kind of amp would be suitable for these subs?

 

[Rawr-DQ 10+ year member]

I think you're either under-powering or over-powering you subs.

I'm guessing you got 2 DVC, 4ohm + 4ohm 12" type E's (swe-1241), you need to match the subs with the proper amp that will not underpower them and is not too powerful, otherwise you must adjust the gain accordingly.

"# Kevlar®-treated pulp cone

# 3/4" Santoprene rubber surround

# dual oversized Nomex® spiders

# frequency response 26-1,000 Hz

# power range 50-200 watts RMS

# peak power handling 600 watts

# sensitivity 89 dB

# top-mount depth 6-3/16"

# sealed box volume: 0.8-1.7 cubic feet

# ported box volume: 1.25-2.0"

You'll need a 8 guage wire (just get an amp wiring kit 20 bucks at walmart) connected to your battery, the on-lead wire (usually blue, connects to the head unit, comes with kit), maybe an aftermarket deck (if not purcashed already, unless the factory deck has the wire you need, you could take the on-lead wire from the factory amp then hook it up to the new one)

...once you got that (for two subs) you'll need an amp that supplies 400 watts RMS @ 2ohms bridged if 2 channels (will be like 800+ watts peak, don't over do it) (100 watts RMS per channel @ 4ohms if 2 channel, then you'll wire your subs at 8 ohms, parallel connect them to the amp, For a 2 channel amp, bridge them, comes out to 2 ohms, power will output to 400 watts rms to both subs, (200 each) with a peak of 800+ to both (400+ each))

The box you got probaly is good.

I looked for an amp that would work for you if you got two dvc 4+4ohms subs

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CfBHZaQm5bj/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=110&I=037A4002T

Its an audiobahn, pretty good, I'm not kidding either. My experience with them has been great, and they'll power those type E's EZ

Key Features:

» 100 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms

» 200 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms

» 400 watts RMS x 1 bridged output

» stereo or bridged mono output

» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)

» MOSFET power supply

» requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier

» 40-amp fuse

» 50-750 Hz high-pass/50-120 Hz low-pass crossover, 18 dB/octave

» 18 dB bass boost at 50 Hz (switchable on/off)

» variable (20-50 Hz) subsonic filter

» preamp outputs

» cooling fan

» cobalt blue illumination

» speaker- and preamp-level inputs

» 11-5/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 10-7/8"D

This amp is perfect for you, get it at crutchfield (comes with 1-year warrenty) for 200$, or you can get it cheaper maybe for like 120$ if you look hard enough on ebay.

Heres a wiring diagram that you can use:

on a bridged two channel amp the ohm dependence will drop to 2, and will power 200 watts rms to each sub. (peak 400+watts)

there is a difference between RMS watts, and Peak watts, RMS is constant power, peak is well, peak, only lastly for a moment, sometimes referred as fake watts.

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I think this is enough info.

 

[KeRPaL0389 10+ year member]

Thanks, that was helpful //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Rawr-DQ 10+ year member]

You're welcome