question on active and midbass

skittlesRgood
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
i have a set of CDT EF-61FG and ive noticed a lack of midbass. im running them at 100wrms. i was thinking B4 i put out the money on a good midbass driver i would try going active. however im a little lost on how to wire them. if i set up channel 1 and 2 with the woofers and 3/4 to the tweeters wont the 100watts be to much? ive tried looking at how much power the tw24 tweeters can take but no luck. the best i can figure is that the comp set is 140rms and the woofer is 120rms so that should put the tweeter at 20rms?

also once i get it all hooked up do i just put all my crossovers on the amp to the max and tune with my hu?

oh and just incase running active doesnt give me the results i want what would be a good driver to go with? under 300. if i buy a new one i want to hear a big differance.

thanks a lot guys.

 
Are you sure the install isn't the reason for the lack of midbass?

for going active, the x-overs on your amp should be set to "full pass" or "off"

usually tweets are wired to channels 1&2 and mids to 3&4. Just watch the gains for the tweets and try to level match the best you can with your ears.

 
i dont see how i could have possibly wired them wrong to give me bad midbass.

channel 1/2 or 3/4, same thing. still need to know if im going to blow the tweeters with 100watts. if this isnt a problem i have a 150.4 amp ill be hooking up. i would rather not just guess with the gains. any more help?

 
by install, I meant... mounting, location, proper deadening treatments.

Wiring can also effect midbass, depending if they are in phase or not (polarity, - +).

Just because you're amp is rated to do 100w, doesn't mean it'll sent your tweets 100w.

I would suggest you set your mids to your desired level (gain), then, from 0 slowly turn up your tweeter gain till it matches your mids. As long as your tweets doesn't sound like shit, clipping & distorting, you're fine. if so, decrease your gains.

 
doors have a layer of dynamat xtreme and a pretty thick coat of spectrum.

i would like some more opinions just to make sure but it looks like ill give it a shot at running active with the 4.150 amp. thanks for the quick responces man.

 
It looks like your head unit is 2-way capable which is what you are looking for. But from what I read on their site it looks like the High Pass Filters max crossover point is 125hz. I guarentee that you will damage your tweet if you cross it there. Also for the Low pass Filter the highest you can put it is 125hz. That would be more sub duty. You might want to look at getting an active crossover to do it. I used the Memphis 16X03 for a 3-way setup i did and it was nice. They also make a 2-way (Memphis 16X02). that would give you better crossover options. maybe closer to 2khz for the tweet hpf. and not sure with that midbass. Maybe start the Midbass at 2khz as well and go from there. Setting up an active system isnt easy but i found it very rewarding when I got it to where i wanted it. G/L man. Keep the questions comming.

 
Going active requires 4 channels of amplification,which you have,but my friend you don't have the processing such as a active capable HU or external processing or even an active capable 4 channel.

 
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skittlesRgood

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