pyle academy 2300 watt amp

[demeaningfive70]

ok so going down the road my old amp stops working so i buy a new one, a pyle 2300 watt, and i hook it up but it wont come out of protected mode. so i took it to a professional and had him look at it and it works and he said it was my ground so i move the ground to the chassis and its still doing the same thing lights up green for a second then moves back into protected mode so i messed around with it for a bit and everything i did just caused it to do the same thing light up green for a second then back into protected mode, i even went out and bought a new wiring kit and an power cap. and ran it all over again, does any know what i can do to get my amp to work?

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[Sub Bass Woofrz 10+ year member]

did you sand the paint off your ground connection?

 

[av83 10+ year member]

ok so going down the road my old amp stops working so i buy a new one, a pyle 2300 watt, and i hook it up but it wont come out of protected mode. so i took it to a professional and had him look at it and it works and he said it was my ground so i move the ground to the chassis and its still doing the same thing lights up green for a second then moves back into protected mode so i messed around with it for a bit and everything i did just caused it to do the same thing light up green for a second then back into protected mode, i even went out and bought a new wiring kit and an power cap. and ran it all over again, does any know what i can do to get my amp to work?

like subbasswoofers said, check to make sure the connection is bare metal to metal. also, what to you have hooked up to it? That amp is only a 300x1 bridged at 4 ohms.

 

[BrownVanMan 10+ year member]

My guess is the amp is fried and who ever checked it out just looked at the board and didn't test anything

 

[demeaningfive70]

yes the connection is metal to metal, and i dont have the amp bridge, i took it to an audiopipe dealer, and he checked it hooked up the positive,remote, and negative and it stayed green, so thats when he told me he thinks it my ground so i moved it to the chassis and i did grind a 2 inch by 2 inch space just so i have enough space in one spot but it doesnt want to stay green for me... and i have two 10 inch rocksford folsgate P2 punch series 1200 watt subs. the guy i took the amp too asked me that same question and i told him, he said that this amp would push 1200 watts at 2 omhs , he also said i could do something else and i would actually get closer to the 2300 watts but i dont need that much just the 1200

 

[av83 10+ year member]

yes the connection is metal to metal, and i dont have the amp bridge, i took it to an audiopipe dealer, and he checked it hooked up the positive,remote, and negative and it stayed green, so thats when he told me he thinks it my ground so i moved it to the chassis and i did grind a 2 inch by 2 inch space just so i have enough space in one spot but it doesnt want to stay green for me... and i have two 10 inch rocksford folsgate P2 punch series 1200 watt subs. the guy i took the amp too asked me that same question and i told him, he said that this amp would push 1200 watts at 2 omhs , he also said i could do something else and i would actually get closer to the 2300 watts but i dont need that much just the 1200

that amp is nowhere near a 1200 watt amp. it's 75x2 @ 4 ohms, 150x2 @ 2ohms, 300x1 bridged @ 4 ohms. Whoever you took that amp to, lied about its abilities. Also, if you have it bridged to those subs, and they are all wired in parallel( all positives and all negatives together) than that may explain why it's going into protect. I think it's probably something else. Honestly, though, that amp is garbage. Might power a couple of door speakers, but it's not fit for sub duty.

edit... just saw its not bridged. sorry. but anyways, are the rf's d4 or d2?

 

[Fi-brations 10+ year member]

did u wire it correctly? use a dmm to check your power and ground connections

 

[demeaningfive70]

ok so ill go get a bigger amp not a big deal for me, but even at that i dont have the amp hooked up to my speakers yet, ive only had the ground, remote,and positive wires hooked up so im confused on why the amp wont go out of protected mode when i know it will cuz i watched the guy do the same thing im doing now in my car that he did in the shop negative, remote, and positive the only difference is he didnt have a remote wire from the back of a radio he used a different wire just to see if it worked so im lost, idk what it would be

 

[demeaningfive70]

yes i have it wired correctly ive done sound systems in cars for 5 to 6 years now lol and grounding to the chassis of the car is the best place to ground and amp, and i have 12.5 out of the battery

 

[Dirtrider4eva 10+ year member]

I'm calling your wired too low

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

If the amp is going into protect with out any subs hooked up, but worked at the shop then it is your wiring.

Check your power wire connections and any fusing you have in your wire.

If you have a DMM this will be far easier.