Power to amp = Protect Mode

Ganglyminnow
10+ year member

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Ok guys i've got an RAA1000:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2kuwLjoIRd0/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=049RAA1000&g=130&search=mb+quart&SearchDisplay=MB+Quart

2 4ohm DVC Pioneers, wired to 1ohm...have not changed this since before this issue.

It was working fine before I decided to upgrade the 'big 3'

I moved the grounding point of the amp from under the backseat to the trunk; this is where I *think* things went wrong...I guess it didn't ground very well. Now it will only power up in protect mode. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

These are my questions/problems:

The amp powers up, albeit in protect, so my inline power fuse is still good I think. But what about the 3x40a fuses on the amp itself? Would the amp even power up if these fuses were blown? And if it is able to power up with these fuses blown, would replacing these most likely solve my problem>? If so I will replace them when I get home from work.

 
Polarity-

Did you connect the power inputs properly?

Stray wires-

Is there any stray wires sticking out the termals touching other terminals?

 
Ok guys i've got an RAA1000:It was working fine before I decided to upgrade the 'big 3'I moved the grounding point of the amp from under the backseat to the trunk; this is where I *think* things went wrong...I guess it didn't ground very well. Now it will only power up in protect mode. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Well, you're now grounding in the trunk and I assume that is where you now have the amp right.?? I mean you're not grounding it in the trunk and mounting it under the seat still right??

If that is the case, did you sand off all paint before you grounded??

In any event I would still check the fuses on the amp.

When you went to move your amp did you disconnect the battery BEFORE you moved anything else??

 
If my amps ground is disconnected or bad the amp shows power in the leds but goes into protect mode.

can someone post up the link that teaches you how to check your ground with a MultiMeter.. i found it extremely helpful in getting a solid ground.

 
I disconnected the negative battery terminal everytime I went to work on the wiring. I did move the ground to the trunk, but then I moved it back to the previous ground point under the back seat as I know for sure it is good. However, this time I just used a clean non-stainless steel bolt (does it matter?) to secure the ground.

Also, there are two sets of speaker terminals on the amp; the manual tells me that the amp is internally bridged so I just wired the 2 4ohm dvc subs down to 1 ohm and ran the wire to a single speaker cup terminal, and then from there I ran one + and one - wire to only one of the terminals on the amp -- is this ok, or should I have split the wires and run a + & - to each of the two terminals on the amp?

edit: i'm going to check polarity, crossed speaker wires inside and out...brb...

 
The way you wired them to the amp is fine since they are in fact internally bridged. The other terminal is only there if you want to input the subs seperately. When you use both terminals it means the amp is will actually parallel them at the terminal. What you've done is wire them in parallel before they got to the amp which accomplishes the same thing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Ground screws are easy to find in my Ranger. They are all painted green on the head of the screw. There are about 3 up in the front, and I never need to run more than a 3 foot wire to get to a ground. That's about the only nice thing about car audio in a truck.

 
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Ganglyminnow

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