Port/sub direction

[JustinStone]

two skar svr's at 550 watts cause the decklid to move a millimeter outward, and causes my sunroof to move 2-2.5 millimeters firing at the decklid. If I fire my zv6 toward the decklid at ~2500watts I'm afraid it will cause the decklid to shake like a fresh polaroid at a wedding. Of course firing it backward will be louder, but wouldn't the decklid rattle cause less spl as well? I'm contemplating firing the sub and port forward with the obvious drawback being spl, but would firing the sub and port upward/sideways as far back as possible yield better results?

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[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Put the ZV6 in a 4th order and port it into the vehicle if possible. What vehicle are you working with? The decklid is always going to rattle. It's the cost of doing business.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If you don't want rattles with a woofer as powerful as a Zv6, then you just need to deaden your vehicle and work on each rattle independently. Any certain level of SPL is going to cause rattles in almost any vehicle. If you have a loud sub system, then almost any vehicle you have will rattle. Just the nature of sound pressure.

Adding weight and/or structural support to the flexing parts of the vehicle is how you keep them from flexing as much

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

If you don't want rattles with a woofer as powerful as a Zv6, then you just need to deaden your vehicle and work on each rattle independently. Any certain level of SPL is going to cause rattles in almost any vehicle. If you have a loud sub system, then almost any vehicle you have will rattle. Just the nature of sound pressure.

Adding weight and/or structural support to the flexing parts of the vehicle is how you keep them from flexing as much

I just said that. But you refuse to give me credit for saying it first. It's real easy Bucko.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

@Buck, "it's the cost of doing business". Just like what I just said.

 

[JustinStone]

@Buck, "it's the cost of doing business". Just like what I just said.

who cares who said it first, lmao. I already know that you can't kill "rattle"; I'm looking for a position that isn't pointed directly at the rear hatch so I can save my hatch as much as possible. the two svr's already killed the button that actuates the hatch release, and have left the actual locking mechanism damaged. the hatch doesn't just "rattle" it s h m o v e s to the point where deadening hasn't helped.

 

[JustinStone]

who cares who said it first, lmao. I already know that you can't kill "rattle"; I'm looking for a position that isn't pointed directly at the rear hatch so I can save my hatch as much as possible. the two svr's already killed the button that actuates the hatch release, and have left the actual locking mechanism damaged. the hatch doesn't just "rattle" it s h m o v e s to the point where deadening hasn't helped.

present tense, "hasn't helped."

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

who cares who said it first, lmao. I already know that you can't kill "rattle"; I'm looking for a position that isn't pointed directly at the rear hatch so I can save my hatch as much as possible. the two svr's already killed the button that actuates the hatch release, and have left the actual locking mechanism damaged. the hatch doesn't just "rattle" it s h m o v e s to the point where deadening hasn't helped.

I would make your hatch mechanism stronger, if you can. I had to basically leave my hatch plastic interior cover off and/or run a long wire to manually pop the hatch. I had 2 18's doing high 140's, and it wrecked my Explorer hatch quite badly. I also know some other people with loud trunk or SUV systems that have done this: get a long metal wired (braided) and attach that wire to the mechanical part of the trunk hatch locking mechanism. Have it in a place where you can pull on that wire if you aren't able to pop your trunk in any other way. I used to be fat, so before I figured this out, I always had to find a skinny guy to climb over my 2 18's box and pull the back plastic panel off and manually tug on the wire connected directly to the hatch release. Would've been much easier with a long wire directly connected to it.

You could do like what was recommend to do a bandpass or types of ported design to fire into the cabin, but the box will take up more space. It would keep pressure out of the trunk, mostly, if you did fire into the cabin and seal the cabin off from the trunk airspace.

What vehicle do you have?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

who cares who said it first, lmao. I already know that you can't kill "rattle"; I'm looking for a position that isn't pointed directly at the rear hatch so I can save my hatch as much as possible. the two svr's already killed the button that actuates the hatch release, and have left the actual locking mechanism damaged. the hatch doesn't just "rattle" it s h m o v e s to the point where deadening hasn't helped.

It's going to rattle regardless. Prove me wrong.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

That's why I said run a fourth order with the port towards the cab. Seal it off as well. You might be able to hit high 140's.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

two skar svr's at 550 watts cause the decklid to move a millimeter outward, and causes my sunroof to move 2-2.5 millimeters firing at the decklid. If I fire my zv6 toward the decklid at ~2500watts I'm afraid it will cause the decklid to shake like a fresh polaroid at a wedding. Of course firing it backward will be louder, but wouldn't the decklid rattle cause less spl as well? I'm contemplating firing the sub and port forward with the obvious drawback being spl, but would firing the sub and port upward/sideways as far back as possible yield better results?

Knock yourself big man. My 4- 8's will kill your ZV6.

 

[JustinStone]

Knock yourself big man. My 4- 8's will kill your ZV6.

dude who asked

 

[JustinStone]

I would make your hatch mechanism stronger, if you can. I had to basically leave my hatch plastic interior cover off and/or run a long wire to manually pop the hatch. I had 2 18's doing high 140's, and it wrecked my Explorer hatch quite badly. I also know some other people with loud trunk or SUV systems that have done this: get a long metal wired (braided) and attach that wire to the mechanical part of the trunk hatch locking mechanism. Have it in a place where you can pull on that wire if you aren't able to pop your trunk in any other way. I used to be fat, so before I figured this out, I always had to find a skinny guy to climb over my 2 18's box and pull the back plastic panel off and manually tug on the wire connected directly to the hatch release. Would've been much easier with a long wire directly connected to it.

You could do like what was recommend to do a bandpass or types of ported design to fire into the cabin, but the box will take up more space. It would keep pressure out of the trunk, mostly, if you did fire into the cabin and seal the cabin off from the trunk airspace.

What vehicle do you have?

ive gotta pt cruiser; no backseats so enclosure size isnt really an issue. what about a bandpass with the port pointed at the roof, in the rear of the car? or would a forward facing port be preferable?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

ive gotta pt cruiser; no backseats so enclosure size isnt really an issue. what about a bandpass with the port pointed at the roof, in the rear of the car? or would a forward facing port be preferable?

Pointed at the roof would be preferable, unless you want to do something like a slide in wall and seal it off.

You could create an artificial loading wall, as well, so the sub and port load off wood instead of the bottom of the rear hatch.

 

[i8shoe]

I had to make an account to just respond to this ignorance. No where in your first post did you say anything similar to what Buck said.

I just said that. But you refuse to give me credit for saying it first. It's real easy Bucko.

Read what your first reply.

Put the ZV6 in a 4th order and port it into the vehicle if possible. What vehicle are you working with? The decklid is always going to rattle. It's the cost of doing business.

Then you say

That's why I said run a fourth order with the port towards the cab. Seal it off as well. You might be able to hit high 140's.

Honestly do you ready what you post before replying to other comments saying "that's what I said"?

But like Buck said try to adjust your latch and get the decklid to be tight as possible. You can also try lining it with high density foam stripping that is made for anti vibration. If you don't care about resell value get some spray foam. lol
Vibration can also be coming from the license plate and sound like it's the decklid.