port length for box

acold7dusta
10+ year member

y they stealin my bucket?
Im making a vented box for my friend in a '93 explorer, and the external dimensions are 11 x 19 x 41 (height x width x depth) comes out to ~3.8 cu ft total) this is for 2 older rockford fosgate 10" punch HE's. if the vent is in the middle, how wide and how long should the ports be if I want it tuned to ~30hz?

thanks,

kev

EDIT: PICS ARE A FEW POSTS DOWN, AND GOING TO USE THIS AS A WORK LOG

 
i'd do one port on the side. it's much easier to make and design. with a port in the middle, you'll need two seperate chambers. if you do a side port you can figure something like this:

http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported-box.asp?Ew=41&Eh=11&Dia=4&Xmax=16&Vd=.08&NumW=2&Vb=2.7&Fb=30&Qts=&Vas=&Fs=&CE=0

i don't know much about the driver's, but that could be a bit small for two of them. also if you feel you need less port area, you can play with the xmax number and the desired volume and get a box with the same dimensions and tuning, but a smaller port and a bit larger volume.

 
If you did a 3.5" port in the middle, and extend it towards the back, stopping 1.75" from the back wall, then turn along the back wall and go 7.5" each direction, should give you ~1.5cf on each side and give ~30Hz tuning..... plus still plenty of port area.

 
alrite i took the advise to run a common chamber and put the port on the side. the box is about 3.8 cu ft before displacement, and the port is 2.5" wide and 14.5" long, tuning it to about 29.5 i believe. the results are amazing, although i cant cut a perfect circle with the jig, and the arch above the wheel well isnt PERFECT, which pissed me off, but nothin a little weather stripping cant fix. Im letting the glue dry overnight, and tomarrow sanding it and painting it all flat black. My friend (and I) are very happy on the outcome, and am hoping it sounds just as good. He got these subs (and his amp) for free for doing some kids essay haha. Im tryin to find him a better amp, since its just a crappy sony 4 channel, and the subs i believe ARE the same, just different dustcaps. He might upgrade those as well. Anyways, as promised, pics pics pics!

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the 10" rockford fosgate punch HE's (i think there both the same)

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His old box sealed ~1.1 per chamber, crappy seals, also free with subs and amp

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back view without front board, my dog, and my dirtbike that im tryin to sell (2003 Honda CRF 230F)

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front plate on and holes cut

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looks goofy out of the truck, but everything serves its purpose

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back view with front plate on

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installed in a 93 Ford Explorer, the front piece is elevated to be "locked in" with the cover thing in place. Theres a "storage" slot on each side of the box, when you put the seats down, you can slide things in there that you dont want rollin around. anyways, im pretty proud //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
dropped em in the X today, wired them up, and **** does it get low and loud for only ~100w...he used to have to have the sub on +11 on the HU, and now its on +0 and it has the same output, and sounds sooo much better. We even had some roof flex and some back window flex //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. All in all, time worth spent

 
i made a new box today for my 10" Diamond Audio D6 (dual 2 ohm). It came out to be 2.2 cu ft internal Net space, tuned to ~27.5 via round port (9.25" deep, 3" wide) I used the same "lockdown" technique as i did in the previous box, this time using a rear strut tower brace to lock it in.

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I ordered a Diamond D3 400.1 Mono Amp, D3 400.4 4 channel amp, and the sub, D6 (dual 2 ohm) From Locust Audio. Should all be here at the end of the week and it sound pretty good IMO

Im gonna let the glue dry, and tomarrow putting the top on, more pics tomarrow, and when all my stuff comes in

 
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acold7dusta

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y they stealin my bucket?
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