Port Decision. Help!

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

From the choices, what would be best?

1- 4" flared, 6.55" long

2- 3" flared, 8.35" long

4- 2" flared, 8.02" long
The box is 3.9 cu/ft tuned to 32 hz. Gonna have 2 12" Type R's runnin off ~1200w (dont get on me for jumpin on the bandwaggon, i have the older model now and like them, so i thought these would be pretty good as well)

I dont want any port noise, and the ports will be firing the same way as the subs, if that helps any.

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[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

any thing less then 4 ports with 4" diameter is going to give you port noise.

 

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

WHAT? that means i would have to have 4, 32" ports!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif thats definetly not goin to happen. I guess ill have to settle with some port noise.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

well you can always go with a 12" high 2.5"~ 3" width slot port most likely like 35"~40" long.

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

A minimum of 2 4" ports. And you most likely will have a tad bit at high volumes.

 

[Moe Lester 10+ year member]

ehh Id just build a slot port if you dont wanna shell out the money for 4 4" aeros. If you are set on getting aeroports, like trigger said, MINIMUM of 2 4" aeroports.

 

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

This is what my bos is gonna look like. I dont have much depth to work with, so thats why i was sticking with the lengths i had. What do u guys think i could do. I would prefer the port to be in the middle, symmetry kinda guy.

sorry bout the pic, it took away some of the parts of the box when i converted it, buy u get the drift.

 

[kuijo 10+ year member]

besides whistling being an issue, how big of a deal in output would be a 10" diffrence in port area?

 

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

well say if i didnt go with the flared ports and just used some 4" pvc, could i use some 90 degree angle pieces, or 45's, to get the tube to go where i need it to go? The length would be 14" for each port.

something like this:

The port would either curve back to the front of the box, or stop when its pointing up, depending on the length.

If it wouldnt hurt me doin it this way (curving the round ports), i probably could go with 3 of the 4"ports at 22.5" long and have them located at the middle, left, and right corners with the subs sitting between each on them.

.o.o.

 

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

bumpin it up

 

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

bump come on guys need the info

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

yes you can use the elbows to make it curved.

 

[SSS 18734 5,000+ posts]

I have a 4" wide, 6.5" long deep port in each of my box chambers as of right now... no port noise whatsoever until it starts getting loud, but even then it isnt all that noticeable unless your close to the port.

why not incorporate a slot design into your box?

 

[Spud2388 10+ year member]

Well, if u look at my box design, i dont really see a way i can put a slot port in it and it still look symectrical. It would have to go in the center, and IMO, slot ports dont look as good as a round port. I like having everything neat, and when u put carpet on a box with a slot port, the edges of the carpet are seen, and it looks tacky. With a round port (aeroport), the edges of the carpet are hidden by the flare and it looks clean. I even believe there is some sort of pvc fitting that has a "lip" on it, similar to a flare, and could be mounted to the outside, givin it a clean finish.

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

may be this could work but its for 2 10" subs.



with 2 3" ports.