Pioneer DEH-80PRS...thinking of switching to network mode

bureau13
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First off, my current configuration is as follows:

DEH-80PRS in Standard Mode

Kenwood 5-channel amp

Custom 2-way (w/ crossover tuned for my particular car model door cavities)

Earthquake 6.5s in rear speaker position

MB Quart 12" sub in the back

Problem: In Standard Mode, the contribution of my Earthquakes is minimized, unless I fade more to the rear than sounds natural, and to my ears, my 2-ways in the doors sound too thin when they're mostly on their own. I need more mid-bass punch, without fading the sound to the rear.

Solution? I was wondering if I could set the filters in Network Mode such that the 2-ways in the doors are on the "high" channel, only the HPF cutoff would be fairly low, as they're more-or-less full range speakers. Then I would put the Earthquakes to basically do mid-bass and below, and let the sub do it's thing. Then set TA such that it minimizes the "faded to the rear" feeling.

Is this doable? Is it likely to sound better than what I have now? I don't want to ditch the 2-ways, as they were expensive, and really do sound very good for midrange and highs. I just need more punch between them and the sub. I could conceivably ditch the crossovers and wire this up in true Network Mode, but then I've got to lose the Earthquakes or the sub, neither of which I'm prepared to do without.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

 
****...although the more I think about it, the less sure I am that this would do something significantly different than what I can already do in standard mode.

 
Interesting thought...they're only 4.5" shallow-mount drivers...I was thinking maybe I was just at their limits...
4.5inch drivers are going to struggle with mid-bass. If possible install 6.5inch mid in their spot or maybe in the kick panel.

Before doing any install I recommend you research door treatments. Keephopealive has several installs in the build section of this forum. His Accord whether the new one or the old one is one of the best demonstrations of acoustic treatments I've come across.

If anybody wants to argue my last statement please link me to a build thread.

 
Install components in the front and amp them. With the proper door treatments you won't need the rear speakers. Mid-bass is about the install not the speaker
The type of speaker actually is part of the install too. If you choose a speaker where its acoustical properties dont match with your car's acoustical properties, no matter how much door treatments you do and power you throw onto them, you arent getting midbass. While another drive might synergize a lot better with your cars acoustics and provide ample midbass even without deadening.

Keep in mind keep hope alive already has proper speaker selection, if he got something else that has an inherent dead zone in its natural properties,youll feel it lacking no matter the treatment.

 
The type of speaker actually is part of the install too. If you choose a speaker where its acoustical properties dont match with your car's acoustical properties, no matter how much door treatments you do and power you throw onto them, you arent getting midbass. While another drive might synergize a lot better with your cars acoustics and provide ample midbass even without deadening.

Keep in mind keep hope alive already has proper speaker selection, if he got something else that has an inherent dead zone in its natural properties,youll feel it lacking no matter the treatment.
It is much easier to do door treatments to make a subpar speaker sound good than it is to find the perfect speaker for a pre-existing install situation.

That said the better product you put in ,in conjunction with the proper install. The better outcome you theoretically can get.

Lets remember that on of the most popular mid-bass drivers for diy active installs. Is a $30 silverflute.

Install will make the largest difference regardless of the speaker make.

His issue that has been brought to attention is that he has 4 inch drivers which I can guess this is a foreign care like a lexus, bmw,Mercedes, etc. As they like to use enclosures to tune smaller drivers. These enclosures are not easily matched to after market drivers.

If there is no enclosure I feel he is just asking too much of a 4 inch speaker in an infinite baffle install.

A 6.5 inch mid in sealed doors with a seal between the speaker ring and door panel can have respectable Mid-bass and maintain clarity if it is properly crossed over and paired with a decent tweeter or a smaller mid like a 2.5 or 3 inch.

 
These are custom 4" (oops I said 4.5" previously) by Hybrid Audio Technologies, paired with Vifa tweeters and custom crossovers designed for these drivers and this door in question (Porsche 928). Going back and re-reading the advertised specs, this setup should be good down to 100Hz, so maybe I do have an install/treatment problem.

There's no room in the stock location for a 6.5" speaker. Many 4" speakers won't fit, for that matter...very shallow door cavity right there. Some have installed 6.5" drivers in the lower front part of the door, but that would be more modifications than I want to make.

 
These are custom 4" (oops I said 4.5" previously) by Hybrid Audio Technologies, paired with Vifa tweeters and custom crossovers designed for these drivers and this door in question (Porsche 928). Going back and re-reading the advertised specs, this setup should be good down to 100Hz, so maybe I do have an install/treatment problem.
There's no room in the stock location for a 6.5" speaker. Many 4" speakers won't fit, for that matter...very shallow door cavity right there. Some have installed 6.5" drivers in the lower front part of the door, but that would be more modifications than I want to make.
Then kick panels are going to be you friend if you don't want to modify the doors. Kick panels can be build to replace the factory panels so at the drop of a hat you can remove them and swap back them factory set

 
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