rickytenzer
Junior Member
Hi all!
New to this forum. Came here out of extreme desperation. I'll preface the following with the fact that I am a complete newbie to the aftermarket game and this is my first "install".
Back in March, the touchscreen on my factory '12 Veloster head unit stopped responding. Hyundai wanted to charge me $1200 for a refurbished one or $3000 for a new one (hahahahaha). Naturally, I thought about going the aftermarket route, so I searched online and lo and behold I found a Metra kit specifically for my car which works with my factory amp (HYBL-02) as well as the steering wheel control interface to keep those buttons working. I chose the Kenwood DDX372BT head unit and purchased all of it from Crutchfield for much less than the $1200 they wanted for a refurb unit which was probably going to stop working a year after anyway.
The install went pretty well, all things considered. There were a couple of issues with the harness from Metra, one being that the polarity was reversed on the rear view camera RCA cable and the other being that the steering wheel harness was not to be connected to the Metra harness as they claimed it to be (I had to cut and resplice some of the wires on the Metra harness to bypass some connections).
During this time, my battery was dying quite often. I chalked it up to the fact that my Veloster was 4 years old at that point and there was a lot of connecting/disconnecting the battery during the install plus there were some other issues with the HYBL-02 module, so I replaced the battery. Everything worked great after that.
Fast forward to about a month and a half ago when my battery started dying if I didn't use the car at least once a day. Eventually it got so bad that it was dead after less than 12 hours. I gave Metra a call, and their first response was that the factory amp is constantly searching for "data" from the old radio (I guess GPS, weather...) and as such it's never turning off. Their suggestion was to unplug the battery, keep the door open, connect the old radio, connect the battery again, wait for the "data" acquisition, and then plug in my new radio. This seemed odd to me because I'm sure that no aftermarket specialist would've told me to do the same if I ever needed a boost or if I ever changed my battery as well as there being nothing on Metra's site/instructions indicating that either.
Anyway, after getting my battery replaced (under warranty, woo!) I went to Hyundai and had them run a diagnostic to see what the issue is. They confirmed that the amp is staying on, as when they removed the fuse for the amp, the car dropped to 0.029 A when off (when it was at 0.51 A with the amp fuse in place). They say that they have to install a bus line module to tell the amp to turn off with the car. I'm still waiting to hear back from them about this, and I'm sure as hell hoping it's true because it'll be much cheaper than replacing the factory amp.
After this, I spoke with Crutchfield tech support who indicated that it could be a problem with the radio itself, such that the blue/white (remote) wire could be sending a constant 12V to the amp. So I bought a multimeter to try to (a) replicate what Hyundai was seeing with the drop from 0.51 A to 0.029 A and (b) start measuring voltage/current across different wires to see if it's the radio that's faulty.
Two major problems now that are sort of connected:
(1) With all four fuses related to amp/radio out, I cannot seem to get the current draw to read anything below 0.13 A when the car is off. I did see that it was at 0.51 A with them all in. I don't believe this makes sense, as what else could be drawing that much current?
(2) My multimeter (2nd one, returned the first) requires me to switch the port when changing from A to mA. The A settings reads from 10 A to 400 mA and the mA settings reads below that. How can I expect to be able to read the 0.029 A if I have to switch the ports in between, thereby breaking the circuit? The circuit will not close if I set it to mA to start with because there's an initial 1 or 2 A draw when I connect the battery. What am I doing wrong?
Like I said, I'm still waiting to hear back from Hyundai about this so called bus line module, but I'm concerned that I cannot replicate their 0.029 A idle draw. I waited a few minutes for the current to drop, maybe I'm not waiting long enough?
Thanks for any and all help!
New to this forum. Came here out of extreme desperation. I'll preface the following with the fact that I am a complete newbie to the aftermarket game and this is my first "install".
Back in March, the touchscreen on my factory '12 Veloster head unit stopped responding. Hyundai wanted to charge me $1200 for a refurbished one or $3000 for a new one (hahahahaha). Naturally, I thought about going the aftermarket route, so I searched online and lo and behold I found a Metra kit specifically for my car which works with my factory amp (HYBL-02) as well as the steering wheel control interface to keep those buttons working. I chose the Kenwood DDX372BT head unit and purchased all of it from Crutchfield for much less than the $1200 they wanted for a refurb unit which was probably going to stop working a year after anyway.
The install went pretty well, all things considered. There were a couple of issues with the harness from Metra, one being that the polarity was reversed on the rear view camera RCA cable and the other being that the steering wheel harness was not to be connected to the Metra harness as they claimed it to be (I had to cut and resplice some of the wires on the Metra harness to bypass some connections).
During this time, my battery was dying quite often. I chalked it up to the fact that my Veloster was 4 years old at that point and there was a lot of connecting/disconnecting the battery during the install plus there were some other issues with the HYBL-02 module, so I replaced the battery. Everything worked great after that.
Fast forward to about a month and a half ago when my battery started dying if I didn't use the car at least once a day. Eventually it got so bad that it was dead after less than 12 hours. I gave Metra a call, and their first response was that the factory amp is constantly searching for "data" from the old radio (I guess GPS, weather...) and as such it's never turning off. Their suggestion was to unplug the battery, keep the door open, connect the old radio, connect the battery again, wait for the "data" acquisition, and then plug in my new radio. This seemed odd to me because I'm sure that no aftermarket specialist would've told me to do the same if I ever needed a boost or if I ever changed my battery as well as there being nothing on Metra's site/instructions indicating that either.
Anyway, after getting my battery replaced (under warranty, woo!) I went to Hyundai and had them run a diagnostic to see what the issue is. They confirmed that the amp is staying on, as when they removed the fuse for the amp, the car dropped to 0.029 A when off (when it was at 0.51 A with the amp fuse in place). They say that they have to install a bus line module to tell the amp to turn off with the car. I'm still waiting to hear back from them about this, and I'm sure as hell hoping it's true because it'll be much cheaper than replacing the factory amp.
After this, I spoke with Crutchfield tech support who indicated that it could be a problem with the radio itself, such that the blue/white (remote) wire could be sending a constant 12V to the amp. So I bought a multimeter to try to (a) replicate what Hyundai was seeing with the drop from 0.51 A to 0.029 A and (b) start measuring voltage/current across different wires to see if it's the radio that's faulty.
Two major problems now that are sort of connected:
(1) With all four fuses related to amp/radio out, I cannot seem to get the current draw to read anything below 0.13 A when the car is off. I did see that it was at 0.51 A with them all in. I don't believe this makes sense, as what else could be drawing that much current?
(2) My multimeter (2nd one, returned the first) requires me to switch the port when changing from A to mA. The A settings reads from 10 A to 400 mA and the mA settings reads below that. How can I expect to be able to read the 0.029 A if I have to switch the ports in between, thereby breaking the circuit? The circuit will not close if I set it to mA to start with because there's an initial 1 or 2 A draw when I connect the battery. What am I doing wrong?
Like I said, I'm still waiting to hear back from Hyundai about this so called bus line module, but I'm concerned that I cannot replicate their 0.029 A idle draw. I waited a few minutes for the current to drop, maybe I'm not waiting long enough?
Thanks for any and all help!
