Overpowering limits?

to simplify it.. when sub moves ohm load changes so your 1 ohm wire sub or subs changes to 4ohm 3 ohm 2.5 ohm 1.5,1,4.5, 2.3 witch every bass note so while sub is mostly still amp sees 1 ohm but when it moves it mostly averages to like 2.5 ohm.. thats y these guys run a true 3500 rms to 8 and 10's subs cause after all the loss due to 70-80% efficientcy of amp and box rise subs mostly are lucky to get 1/2 the power u think..
Kinda made that hard to understand. But yes your right. But I will retouch with it more info. Nominal omh load is what a sub is wired to. And actually the peak impedance rise is at the box tuning but that's where the box is most efficient and has the most come control but at 5hz below it's start rolling off and start unloading (this is all for ported box but same for Sealed and other types of enclosure) but it kinda stay flat after above tuning frequency and then there is another impedance rise and same thing again. But that at 60hz or so depending on box and all.

 
Cheap equiptment equals cheap results, sometime that works and sometimes not. Speculate all you want on what your amp does, only way to know is to scope it. Done.
"My 3000 watt amp did 758 watts at 2 ohms" ....lol (After he gets it tested)

 
Yeah I honestly was thinking the same. Most websites I was looking at say 1500 rms but I do understand that the differences between rms and peak, and realize I'm not going to get that kind of performance out of it.
And it's a Crunch PD3000.1D and it says it has 2 30 amp fuses
600 real watts if you are lucky. These "GARBAGE" as fk companies can blatantly lie about the power ratings to trick noobs into buying their piece of sh*T products and theres no regulation to stop them from doing so. Only way to know is via experience or listen to people who have been in the game long enough to show you whats good or bad. Or look up amp dynos on youtube.

For example this "2100" watt crunch amp only did 383 actual real watts. it claimed 1050 rms but only got 383. Thats how much of a discrepancy you'll see with these companies. there's a list of garbage car audio companies that you just need to flat out avoid period.

For your current situation, you should be worried about keeping the signal clean and do not get trigger happy with the gain, volume knob or bass boost options on either the head unit or amp because that stuff kills your sub. You not being satisfied due to weak output is what causes you to play with the aforementioned things and thats due to a weak amp.

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I would say get something that can read clipping or distorting for you. Such as an oscillo scope or maybe one of those smd or whatever hand tools sonic electronix sells. That way you can verify if the amps clean power and not just whatever power rating the company certifies it to. However if your that worried or enough people here make you paranoid about cheap amps, the money you spend on an oscillo scope could be put towards a way better amp.
A proper oscope would cost more than his system right now lol let alone a DD-1 or AMM-1

 
It's A regulated power supply. It's efficiency and damping goes down when wired lower but it does make a bit more power wire down. But not as much as it could if it was unregulated
I've had RIPs amps. A few of them. They actually tend to make a hair more power wired at 4ohm vs 2ohm. But it's not much.

Efficiency isn't good no matter how it's wired.

 

---------- Post added at 06:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:03 AM ----------

 

I did not understand any of that??
It still has rise. It will still lose power like a normal amp after it's locked in.

 
Turn the gain like half way and play coca cola. If you smell the coil turn it down lol.

Overpowering is the least likely way to kill a sub.

Trying to blast frequencies lower than the box is made for will result in the cone barely moving and the coil will burn due to lack of cooling.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Cheap equiptment equals cheap results, sometime that works and sometimes not. Speculate all you want on what your amp does, only way to know is to scope it. Done.
The other way to verify wattage is using a volt meter, probe outputs to speakers. Then use an amp clamp meter around the positive output wires to the apears. Those two numbers multiplied get you wattage. You can use music or a sine wave. Music will jump around more and will "peak" whereas a sine wave will push out a mostly steady signal. Your choice i suppose. Unless your talking strictly distortion and clean Power

 
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