Optimal box for Icon 15”

[Wolv19D]

Hey guys, been out of Car Audio the last few years and can’t seem to login to my old account.

Anyways... I had an old Xcon motor that I ordered 18” Zcon soft parts for but in the meantime I went ahead and ordered a 15” Icon as well since I didn’t wanna wait to get the system going again and can use it in another vehicle.

My question is do you think there would be any advantages to running a 4.0 Cu ft net box or should I stick with 3.5-3.75 like is recommended?

I know in the past I had great luck with bigger boxes so figured I’d get some input. If there’s no advantage I’ll stick with 3.5-3.75. Standard L slot port both sub/port back in a small SUV on a kicker 1200.

I will be listening to strictly hip hop and would prefer to retain a little higher end notes but still have a good low end as well so was thinking somewhere in the 31-32hz range would be optimal? I know the FS is fairly low on the Icons so not sure if I will lose much by going with 32hz or not. I had a couple FI Q 12s years ago at about 30hz that killed the lows but lacked a little top end. I’d be happy with that again but would prefer to have a little more topend if possible. I have even considered 33-34hz but am worried I wouldn’t get a good low end response.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Edited to add a couple box plans I came up with in case you see any issues? Port area a little over 15 in per cube. I’m just having trouble deciding between 4.0 or 3.75 cu ft and smaller. And 30-32hz?

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[SlugButter]

Loved those FI Q subs from 15 years ago. I’m not familiar with any of their new stuff, but that 12 inch Q was one of my top 3 subs I’ve ever heard.

 

[Wolv19D]

Also one other thing I may make a separate thread about. My Kicker CX1200.1 doesn’t have a LPF it just has crossover. Will this be an issue? Factory head unit with no way to adjust the filter and will be trying out a LC2I Pro for the first time if that helps? I have always used aftermarket head units so this will be a first for me.

 

[SlugButter]

An LPF is a set filter that isn’t adjustable. The amp has an adjustable crossover. That’s better.

 

[SlugButter]

I set my crossover at 80hz for the sub low pass. My door speakers are high passed at 80 hz.

 

[Wolv19D]

Hey Slug, I loved the FI Qs as well. They were the 2nd model I believe with 28mm XMAX circa 2011. I believe they had 2-3 models after that and now I see they don’t even offer the Q specifically. I liked how they were a 1000-1500 driver which was great for daily but they kept making them more heavy duty throughout the years.

I first had them in a small prefab box tunes to who knows what (low-mid 40hz would be my guess) and they hit hard on a 1500RMS MB Quart Discus. But the sound quality was obviously lacking and I built the box designed by RAM back in the day which was 5 cuft at around 30hz. At first I was disappointed in how much output I lost but soon got over it due to how amazing they sounded. If I could do it over I’d have likely went 32hz to gain a little more top end and is why I’m thinking 32hz on this Icon.

 

[Wolv19D]

Awesome, so the LPF isn’t needed with the crossover then? I had a hard time searching for info on this for some reason. I had the amp set at around 80hz from a temporary Xcon setup years ago and read that was usually about right but I’ll be testing it out again soon. I am not as knowledgeable in tuning amps as I’d like to be and didn’t realize the crossover took care of the LPF.

I had planned to use this Kicker for the Xcon/Zcon hybrid but will likely keep it with the Icon since it should pair perfectly and get a Taramps 1800 or even 3000 and run it at 2 ohm for half power. I’ve read good things about the MD line and newer Smart 3ks.

 

[SlugButter]

When you say filter, do you mean a little switch on the amp that says LPF? Or are you talking about a LPF that is wired in line with the subs or RCAs?

 

[Wolv19D]

Usually a turn knob on the amp where it has frequency ranges. Let me see if I can copy a couple photos here for an example.

A Taramps 3k which has a separate LPF and HPF knob and the Kicker with a single knob for crossover.

 

[SlugButter]

The high pass on that looks to work as a subsonic filter or a high pass filter for running high power front speakers. I would personally set that one all the way down at 10 for sub amp duty. The low pass would be set at 80 in my system.

 

[SlugButter]

The other amp is just for sub duty. It only has a low pass that I would set at 80 for mine. Or as close as I could get with no specific markings for it.

 

[Wolv19D]

The high pass on that looks to work as a subsonic filter or a high pass filter for running high power front speakers. I would personally set that one all the way down at 10 for sub amp duty. The low pass would be set at 80 in my system.

I’m not sure if I misunderstood you or if you got the amps mixed up. The Kicker one only has 50-200 on the crossover and no other settings for the low pass. That’s what confused me originally. Never mind, I see you posted again mentioning the Kicker amp. I was just worried the Kicker amp with the 50-200 crossover and no LPF knob would be detrimental in some way? I see people mentioning setting their LPF a couple hZ below box tuning but I can’t do that.

I appreciate your input! I’m also going to add a couple photos of box plans I worked up for the other question if anyone has input on box size.

 

[SlugButter]

I’m not sure if I misunderstood you or if you got the amps mixed up. The Kicker one only has 50-200 on the crossover and no other settings for the low pass. That’s what confused me originally. Never mind, I see you posted again mentioning the Kicker amp. I was just worried the Kicker amp with the 50-200 crossover and no LPF knob would be detrimental in some way? I see people mentioning setting their LPF a couple hZ below box tuning but I can’t do that.

I appreciate your input! I’m also going to add a couple photos of box plans I worked up for the other question if anyone has input on box size.

You’d set your high pass filter a little below port tuning. Not the low pass. Lots of subs unload when they get below they’re port tuning, so setting the high pass filter just below your port tuning protects the subs, similar to a subsonic filter. If the high pass is set at 28 hz, only frequencies higher than 28 hz will pass, filtering out everything below 28. If you set your low pass at 28, you’d only get bass from 28hz and lower and probably hear nearly zero sound.

 

[Wolv19D]

You’d set your high pass filter a little below port tuning. Not the low pass. Lots of subs unload when they get below they’re port tuning, so setting the high pass filter just below your port tuning protects the subs, similar to a subsonic filter. If the high pass is set at 28 hz, only frequencies higher than 28 hz will pass, filtering out everything below 28. If you set your low pass at 28, you’d only get bass from 28hz and lower and probably hear nearly zero sound.

Ok I think I have a good grasp on that now. So my Kicker amp does have a LPF which is just called crossover but it doesn’t have a HPF then? So not having a HPF won’t that hurt my sub(s) since I can’t cut the frequency off a couple hZ below tuning?

 

[SlugButter]

Ok I think I have a good grasp on that now. So my Kicker amp does have a LPF which is just called crossover but it doesn’t have a HPF then? So not having a HPF won’t that hurt my sub(s) since I can’t cut the frequency off a couple hZ below tuning?

Probably not. I’ve never really had an issue, but I don’t play rebassed music or chopped and screwed material. Some of that stuff can have damaging frequencies to smaller subs. I play straight up hip hop, metal and classic rock mostly and never used protection for the subs.