Optima YellowTop or KINETIK HC800???

a yellow top's gonna have way more reserve capacity, but the kinetik's gonna have lower esr, so it's gonna prevent voltage drops, and act almost like a capacitor.

i wouldn't use either for a starting battery. you can maximize the effectiveness of a 2nd batt. by putting it as close to the amp as possible.

 
yes thats right. they aren't gonna be different like night and day. i've heard it go both ways for car audio use. but for the 800 and a yellow top, the optima will have more capacity (48 Ah for D75 or D35, 55 for D34) than the HC800 (35 Ah), so in my opinion, I'd go with the yellow top between the two. the yellow also has a lower internal resistance

 
yeah... i can't remember the exact number, but it was higher when i asked Erik from Kinetik on the phone.

edit: ah, it was .0038, Rich Scott actually told me that on the phone, and i talked to erik through email.

 
Yellow top is for deep cycling applications. It's going to last longer.

Personally I think the KInetik is a sham, even if the battery has a "lower" ESR. The voltage shouldn’t fall to the level of the battery for any significant time. And the ESR of any storage device changes through discharge, so that number is basically BS. I'm curious what the ESR range is.

I would go with a deep cycling battery for longevity, and make sure your wire sizes are up to par/the alternator is large enough.

 
with 2 nines in back i would get at least a kinetik hc 2000(102 aH) vs the 800. Thnking the esr is important as its the actual load it has in the system plus it effects its speed and ability to do bursts. An alternator doesnt produce 100% constant amperage 100% of the time it depends on how fast it is spinning. a general rule of thumb two batteries of the same design then typically the larger battery will have a higher esr. your comment over the voltage then the recommending of a deep cycle for longevity contradicts. if i understood you right the battery wouldnt get drained as such ....... as to the posters original question what are you wanting to do? listening habits...do you park with friends while listening? and jacka iirc the esr on the 800 is lower than .0038 as it was next lowest to the 600 which is lowwer than that by a good margin if im wrong its due to the fact its been 6+ months since i worked there lol.

 
with 2 nines in back i would get at least a kinetik hc 2000(102 aH) vs the 800. Thnking the esr is important as its the actual load it has in the system
I didn’t say it wasn’t important…I said their low ESR isn’t accurate. If you worked there then you would know any proper ESR testing of a battery requires ESR graphs over the total potential vs different temps vs different loads. Where is this information and what are the surrounding conditions of the ESR reported.

plus it effects its speed and ability to do bursts.
Reaction rate of the battery is dictated by the type of reaction and properties of that reaction, ESR is a factor in amplitude of discharge and recharge rate (discharge rate is governed through external impedance or equivalent of, as is recharge amplitude).

An alternator doesnt produce 100% constant amperage 100% of the time it depends on how fast it is spinning.
Duty cycle of the load (for lack of a more comprehendible definition) is the dynamic factor, Duty cycle of the alternator remains constant. It’s typically .7ms. This is the reason the alternator voltage drops, but as I said in my earlier statement voltage shouldn’t drop for any significant amount of time, I base this on duty cycle and rate of load vs source.

your comment over the voltage then the recommending of a deep cycle for longevity contradicts. if i understood you right the battery wouldnt get drained as such
It still will cycle, just not for any noticeable time. And even if there is absolutely no load on the battery it’s still constantly cycling due to leakage.

 
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