Opinion question: double baffling

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

if another .75" is gonna cause a problem...

actually, yes it is.

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

I never did double baffle as space is always an issue for me. Brace alot around the subs. i can't see how 2inch x3/4 mdf could flex...

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

then have the extra baffle inside of the enclosure. w/o the cutout, the baffle will just have a displacement of .17cuft. after the cutout it would be much less.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

then have the extra baffle inside of the enclosure. w/o the cutout, the baffle will just have a displacement of .17cuft. after the cutout it would be much less.

cmon, if it was that simple, do you think i would have started this thread?

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

cmon, if it was that simple, do you think i would have started this thread?

ca.com

 

[oldschoolboomer 10+ year member]

So do i.

However, that does not answer my question whatsoever

i thought it did. no you dont need a double baffle for such a small panel.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

ca.com

i guess thats true. There is an abundance of idiocy on these forums, but i like to think i am not included in that group //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

i thought it did. no you dont need a double baffle for such a small panel.

so you thought by telling me that you use a double baffle 90% of the time would signify to me that i dont need one?

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I'm seeing it this way. you have a 20x20" baffle with a 16.75" diameter cutout. that leaves 3.25" on for sides between the cutout and the edge of the baffle. I see those 4 spots as weak spots. that's very little mass to support an 18" sub. that's just me.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

I'm seeing it this way. you have a 20x20" baffle with a 16.75" diameter cutout. that leaves 3.25" on for sides between the cutout and the edge of the baffle. I see those 4 spots as weak spots. that's very little mass to support an 18" sub. that's just me.

so in theory, you think the wood, because of its thickness, will practically shred itself?

would i see benefit from using another wood, say, 11 ply oak?

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I'm saying that's a pussy baffle for an 18"

 

[oldschoolboomer 10+ year member]

so you thought by telling me that you use a double baffle 90% of the time would signify to me that i dont need one?

i said i dont use double baffling 90% of the time. I guess I only implied that you dont need it. i will try to be more clear and direct with you from now on.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

i said i dont use double baffling 90% of the time. I guess I only implied that you dont need it. i will try to be more clear and direct with you from now on.

ahhh, i see now. Wording was kinda strange //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[oldschoolboomer 10+ year member]

Box Construction

A strong box is essential in a high output system. Your box should be free from air leaks and braced internally if the volume exceeds 2 cuft. Internal cross bracing is far more effective in making a rigid box than doubling the wood thickness. Doubling the wood thickness adds a great deal of weight to your vehicle, and the added wall stiffness is less than stiffness added by cross bracing. Try to cross the braces at the same point so that they add strength to each other.

The inside seams of the enclosure can be a source of air leaks and potential weakness if the joints are not cut perfectly. One way to strengthen these joints is to use gluing cleats on the inside seams.

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

if you are 100% sure that .75" will make that much of an issue , then brace.

if you can get another baffle in there , why not?