Ology Audio Component Set Review

Its ALWAYS much easier to REVERSE engineer a sucessful/proven product and do it cheaper to.
Stealing is wrong :p and there are better things to reverse engineer if you wanna make money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
For the asking price , I dont see why those cant be thrown into a plastic case say the least at no additional cost..... It appears to 'pretty them up' he insist on more $

Again I'd personally rather invest $200 in my hard earned money into the ability to run active if you currrently dont have it and you wana play with DIY. Whether be a quality analog xover, another pair of amplified channels or a simple upgrade on a HU.

I dont see why some of you would be scared to run active. You tune to your ears to your liking, and its not hard to see on a graph the usable range of a driver. And you have better flexibility soundwise to pull your oem locations together better than a fixed passive will allow. I dont know too many people that have went the active route, go back to passive. Once you have the flexibility you can run ANY combination of speakers you'd like.

 
I agree,if the crossovers didnt look like they were made in the year 1945 I would consider a set....... I am sure the Ology fella can do better with all his electronics know how.

 
How dare you smack almighty Ology! Where's Eugenics at? He'll be along to bash you shortly I'm sure. I agree with the whole "for 200 bucks it ought to at least look nice" take, hell even if they were shrink wrapped like the low end DLS they would look way better than they do, but then, my pretty Dls crossovers live behind door panels, so who gives a shit what they look like.Hmmm...insert argument here......

 
How dare you smack almighty Ology! Where's Eugenics at? He'll be along to bash you shortly I'm sure. I agree with the whole "for 200 bucks it ought to at least look nice" take, hell even if they were shrink wrapped like the low end DLS they would look way better than they do, but then, my pretty Dls crossovers live behind door panels, so who gives a shit what they look like.Hmmm...insert argument here......

you missed it jackass

one page back:naughty:

 
How dare you smack almighty Ology! Where's Eugenics at? He'll be along to bash you shortly I'm sure. I agree with the whole "for 200 bucks it ought to at least look nice" take, hell even if they were shrink wrapped like the low end DLS they would look way better than they do, but then, my pretty Dls crossovers live behind door panels, so who gives a shit what they look like.Hmmm...insert argument here......
Haha I guess I could shrink wrap them in some black plastic type thing wasn't rly thinking along those lines... Nice little cases though... unless someone can find me a good cheap source for a nice sized project box (these xovers ARE large...) where I dont have to buy more than 1000 of them to get a reasonable price... won't be happening for a little while.

Something like this would work... but rly not look that great ethr...:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=320-718

But theres another ~$20 on parts costs -- with perfboards to go with those project boxes...

As for barrier strips... they are pretty cheap -- would only raise parts costs ~$10 for a set... ~6 in any kind of quantity -- a lot less @ 1000+ quantity

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=090-844

..................

A few ways I could imagine keeping prices the same:

Use lower quality xover components... needing a smaller project box... don't be concerned about placement of inductors and allow inductive coupling just like everyone else does and manage to fit everything into a nice little box... (quite frankly unacceptable to me)

Order 1000+ quantity from china... It would cost more but I wouldn't have to do much more work and I could justify making less money because I didn't have to waste ~ 4 hours of my life assembling them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'd love to get input of ideas to make things look better and keep costs down enough that I don't have to rly raise prices.

As you can see there is an available option with little boxes and barrier strips that only adds about $30 in parts costs that you can do yourself... or just have me put it together like that... ethr way works -- it is custom afterall //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif -- you could get a nice hardwood box with gold binding posts made if you rly wanted...

 
i don't know what Plexiglas cost but buy a sheet of that and play around making a perfect box for your crossovers.......maybe have a little contest and have people send in there boxes and you give a decent discount on the component set of there choice to the person that wins

 
For the asking price , I dont see why those cant be thrown into a plastic case say the least at no additional cost..... It appears to 'pretty them up' he insist on more $
Again I'd personally rather invest $200 in my hard earned money into the ability to run active if you currrently dont have it and you wana play with DIY. Whether be a quality analog xover, another pair of amplified channels or a simple upgrade on a HU.

I dont see why some of you would be scared to run active. You tune to your ears to your liking, and its not hard to see on a graph the usable range of a driver. And you have better flexibility soundwise to pull your oem locations together better than a fixed passive will allow. I dont know too many people that have went the active route, go back to passive. Once you have the flexibility you can run ANY combination of speakers you'd like.
Yea... It is kinda hard to forget what new is like //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Anyways there are defiantly benefits to going active... just not at the $200 pricepoint. The RS drivers are a prime example of something that is a PITA to setup properly active... lots of things to keep in mind, they need to be xovered in the 1.8khz area and not with a standard Q transfer function... if you don't tailor the tweeter's response just outside the useable range the tweeter will... crap out to say the least... You will be OK going as high as 2.2k 4th order but thn you get more energy storage and a little more ringing of the midbass. If you have a nice head unit or DSP you can time align via active routes which is awesome -- Can't beat that via passive without a big mess of allpass filters... I spent a month trying to tweak these so that they would be very install friendly so that there would only be a few possible Z offsets that they wouldn't work well in and they would be very small ranges... Even if you did get stuck with this install you would only have a few dB (less than 4) of ripple right at the xover point... I also tailored the power response to be... even as hell. The midbass at my feet for example is about 70-80 degrees off axis -- can't remember exactly, and the tweeter is about 30 degrees off -- the passenger midwoofer is about 40 degrees off axis and the tweeter is between 20-30 or so... balance set to 0, it images properly... the left tweeter is about 1.5dB higher in level than the right tweeter just above the xover point... but it is very minor and could have been corrected for with better placement...

Anywhere between this install and dead on axis... you are going to be pretty much +-3dB or better no matter what you do (except possibly some strange diffraction effects if your doors are nutty or you just hot glue in the tweeters like I did... lol)... and if you take care to install proplerly you can be better than +-1dB...

Granted if you go active with a good EQ and know what you are doing you can beat this for sure, hands down... Just that is scary to a lot of people.

I'm just trying to make a little money so I can implement some ideas I have for near infinite thermal power handling -- high efficiency drivers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Needless to say... these component sets are just a step along the way that a poor college student has to make before he can afford to partake in the fun stuff of building a new motor technology...

 
Ok i can vouch for going the active way. I currently have The dayton RS tweet and the RS driver. I Blew up my tweets IN less then a week cause of my mistake of crossing the tweets to low. BUt if you cross it to high you do get a beaming sound from the mids that sound nooooooo good. But o well. Buy his crossovers. lol

 
dylan get me a parts list if you can i have some sources from overseas...i may be able to help you with parts orders.... email me zfactor@comcast.net and ill get back with you get me a number to contact you if you can. depending on how many of each thing your gonna need i can get some pretty good prices on these kinda of parts. caps, coils resistors included. again i wasnt knocking them as i havent heard them but let me know always love to help other audio guys out.

 
You guy are retarded... if you want it to look nice... do it yourself. Unless you wanna pay 2x for the labor and cost of the case... so why not do it yourself. You dont think you pay a good chunck of change just for the housing of your "pretty xovers" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
if you rly wanted...
sorry after seeing this i couldnt help it

rry.jpg


o rry?

btw ology, around xmas time ill be contacting you for business //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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